oem = garbage

buy a head unit with a remote if you dont like not having steering whell controls

There is some additional wiring needed with air controls....
------------------------------------------------------
Oldsmobile 1992-2002
- all models with air bag with heater controls - 32pin connector
Interface wire color: Green
Interface version : 4
Connector : GM 32
Vehicle connector pin number: E5 -or- E6 Dark Blue or Light Green
Cut Purple Wire : NO
Cut Brown Wire : NO
Additional:
Connect Interface Blue wire to Pin E1 (Dark Green)
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By the book....

Seems there is some difference with heater controls!

Hope this helps 'ya out!

Bump this one so custom can see the changes needed for his olds...

There'* a few problems with that. The 32 Pin connector is an actual wireharness like the 95-99 Aurora used. The 2001+ has the ribbon cable just like the bonneville so it'* not the 32 pin harness. also, the heater controls on the 32 pin harness vehicles were required because there were two wires. one went from the wheel to the radio. The other was the signal from the radio, to the climate control. On my vehicle it appears that there is only one wire that goes from the steering wheel to the dash integration module. From there it'* translated into a data signal I assume. This is just how the Bonneville is, too.

Oldsmobile
- other makes with ribbon type connector that stays in dash
Interface wire color: Green
Interface version : 1
Connector : N/A
Vehicle connector pin number: D8 (Dark Blue or Light Green)
--- 40 pin plug next to steering column
Cut Purple Wire : NO
Cut Brown Wire : Yes
Additional:
TAP interface wire / do not cut vehicle wire in half
------------------------------------------------------

These notes I'm givin' ya
are from the Vehicle Application Guide 4-28-05

Sounds like the bonnie except you keep the purple wire loop
where ours are cut...
perhaps thats the only change you need to make?

Keep wrenchin' on her!

Sorry to Intrupt trying to get the conrtols to work but if you do go back to the stock deck you can build your own crossover Im probiblay going to make my own in the next few weeks.

If i remember correctly you use capasitors to cut the top end out and Coils for the Highend Im wanting to build a small board that I can have 3-4 of each all differnt values allong with switches so i can tune it to sound like i want it.

I have a couple of pages saved that a scanned from a book at the library a while ago so if you cant them I can email them since i do not have any serverspace to save them any more.

No your not inturrupting...

But I do hope that Custom got the SWI-x working

However the issue over the original post is that the factory head
"colors" the music by changing (sometimes drastically) the level
or volume of certain frequencies at certain volumes and it seems
to be a non-linear scale more like some exponential.

Your wanting to build a crossover to tailor the resulting output.
Inductors (in milihenries) for low pass filtering and cap'* for
high pass (also resistors for notching out specific peaks)

I admire your willingness but you'll never achieve your goal
since the head dynamically modifies the signal so your
x-over will be perfect at 20% volume but the head modifies
the signal differently at 35% volume and your filter network
will need modified for that level differently.

This is why I said that even a parametric eq which by
nature is a very rapid equilzer that will force it'* will on the
output using a wildly ranged input would even have trouble.

You'll need to switch between several static crossovers
on the fly according to current volume level. That would be
worse than constantly fiddling with the onboard EQ in the
first place.

You hit the exact reason why I dumped my factory unit
(well and mp3 functionality) in the first place.

Building x-overs is a hobby and they require a fixed
input frequency and various driver / enclosure stats
to really build and tune the output.

Good luck none the less