I wasn't disagreeing with you! I was just showing him what would happen if the amps really were 3200w. As you noted correctly, there is no way that the amps could do much more than 800w, given that 60 * 13.5 = 810w. And actually, that means that for a typical 13.5v system, the fuses are only rated for a shade above max RMS output (you'd draw 59A while the fuses are rated at 60a). Fortunately, I doubt even a 70A pull for 1 second followed by 1 second of low current flow (common for rap/hip-hop which usually has beats) would pop the fuses, since the fuses allow for over-current for a certain amount of time. At any rate, the amp isn't going to do any more than it is designed to do, regardless of your alternator (though it may do far less than it is designed to do if you can't supply the current).

First off, I would do the "Big 3", which is upgrading your under-hood wiring for the following connections: alternator positive to battery positive, battery negative to chassis, battery negative to engine. Most folks use 1/0 AWG cable to do this... It looked like my stock wiring (including the battery positive to alternator) was 8ga, which is going to result in a significant voltage drop if you are wanting to draw full current from your alternator (e.g. full 140a or whatnot).

Then, I'd look at an upgraded alternator. You could call a local rebuilder and see what they can build. There are a few other places (such as Ohio Generator, Mr. Alternator, etc) that you can check out as well. If you have a 105a alternator, head to any local autoparts stores and get the 140A stock version if you can't afford to do a aftermarket one. If you play your system when your car is off, I'd also look into doing a dual-battery setup, with a high-current relay (Stinger makes a good one I hear) seperating a deep-cycle battery (to run the system when your car is off) and the starting battery. You could get a diode-based battery seperator, but those will result in a voltage drop across the diode and are an older design.