Check Our My System In My Bonnie! 3200 Watts Max!
08-05-2005, 06:30 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by ForeverSilent004
way too many neons and LEDs to be tasteful. you will probably have a passenger or two that will have a seizure
a lanzar deck is nothing to brag about, nor audiobahn. take a look at those amps, they each have two 30A fuses. that means they actually put out ~900 peak watts (14.4V * 60A = 864). sorry to break it to you, but you gotta learn somehow
take care of the tint first, then trash those amps. build a real box for the L7'* after that. what you can do now cancel your capacitor order. they are pretty much worthless in your situation
btw, besides your tase with neons, you do nice work. it looks real good in the trunk
a lanzar deck is nothing to brag about, nor audiobahn. take a look at those amps, they each have two 30A fuses. that means they actually put out ~900 peak watts (14.4V * 60A = 864). sorry to break it to you, but you gotta learn somehow
take care of the tint first, then trash those amps. build a real box for the L7'* after that. what you can do now cancel your capacitor order. they are pretty much worthless in your situation
btw, besides your tase with neons, you do nice work. it looks real good in the trunk
I like the neons and everyone else that i know like them. They give a nice efect to everything. Just keep in mind though that i am only 16. So right now i am young might not have real good taste yet but i like it so far and i kind of agree with all the neons but theres not more going in except to light up the amps and subs.
08-05-2005, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by A20H
my neon days are behind me I had the under car kit and about 6 on the inside and two in my front grille I even had the stupid windshield washer neon'* back when I had my truck in my younger days. my problem was I liked driving with the out sides neon'* on and always got pulled over for it
08-05-2005, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by A20H
I love the kicker L7'* but ForeverSilent004 hit the nail on the head you could have done a little better on your amp selection and if you upgrade your head unit you may get improved sound quality . I am not a big fan of audiobahn or LameZar.The neon'* are a little out of control but everyone has their own preference, you did a good job setting everything up in the trunk and overall you have a nice looking bonneville
08-05-2005, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 1993 SLE
looks great.....and have you checked your RPO codes for hte H4U??, you might have an SLE
08-09-2005, 12:45 PM
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From the audiobahn website, the A8000T amps put out 800w at 2ohms. So, two of them should be 1600w at 2ohms. Now, this is just fine, since, if you really were running amps totalling 3200w, you'd have some problems... I'm assuming your system runs 1600w RMS and near 3200w max, which doesn't mean much since amplifier output when above RMS is usually pretty bad.
Total current needed to run at 3200w = 3200W / 14V / 0.9 = 254A ... The division by 0.9 takes into account amplifier inefficiency (class Ds usually have around 90% efficiency). Now, if you have a stock alt, it'* probably rated at 140a max, which you'll only get a high RPMs. So, at idle, your alt probably does close to 50-60A. Figure that 30-35 of that is needed to actually run the car, leaving you with about 30A at idle to power an amplifier system that, at max output, is trying to draw 254A. Obviously, you are 220A short, and that'* a LOT for the battery to provide. Even at 1600W, your amps will draw (at max RMS power) 127A, which is still way more than the alt puts out at idle. I can't imagine that your battery will last very long with the extreme power demand.
I've been into car audio since about 1997, and the same issues are still around. A lot of people don't realize that their big, high-output amplifiers require a lot of current, oftentimes much more than their alternator is able to provide.
Total current needed to run at 3200w = 3200W / 14V / 0.9 = 254A ... The division by 0.9 takes into account amplifier inefficiency (class Ds usually have around 90% efficiency). Now, if you have a stock alt, it'* probably rated at 140a max, which you'll only get a high RPMs. So, at idle, your alt probably does close to 50-60A. Figure that 30-35 of that is needed to actually run the car, leaving you with about 30A at idle to power an amplifier system that, at max output, is trying to draw 254A. Obviously, you are 220A short, and that'* a LOT for the battery to provide. Even at 1600W, your amps will draw (at max RMS power) 127A, which is still way more than the alt puts out at idle. I can't imagine that your battery will last very long with the extreme power demand.
I've been into car audio since about 1997, and the same issues are still around. A lot of people don't realize that their big, high-output amplifiers require a lot of current, oftentimes much more than their alternator is able to provide.
08-09-2005, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by WxGuy1
From the audiobahn website, the A8000T amps put out 800w at 2ohms. So, two of them should be 1600w at 2ohms. Now, this is just fine, since, if you really were running amps totalling 3200w, you'd have some problems... I'm assuming your system runs 1600w RMS and near 3200w max, which doesn't mean much since amplifier output when above RMS is usually pretty bad.
Total current needed to run at 3200w = 3200W / 14V / 0.9 = 254A ... The division by 0.9 takes into account amplifier inefficiency (class Ds usually have around 90% efficiency). Now, if you have a stock alt, it'* probably rated at 140a max, which you'll only get a high RPMs. So, at idle, your alt probably does close to 50-60A. Figure that 30-35 of that is needed to actually run the car, leaving you with about 30A at idle to power an amplifier system that, at max output, is trying to draw 254A. Obviously, you are 220A short, and that'* a LOT for the battery to provide. Even at 1600W, your amps will draw (at max RMS power) 127A, which is still way more than the alt puts out at idle. I can't imagine that your battery will last very long with the extreme power demand.
I've been into car audio since about 1997, and the same issues are still around. A lot of people don't realize that their big, high-output amplifiers require a lot of current, oftentimes much more than their alternator is able to provide.
Total current needed to run at 3200w = 3200W / 14V / 0.9 = 254A ... The division by 0.9 takes into account amplifier inefficiency (class Ds usually have around 90% efficiency). Now, if you have a stock alt, it'* probably rated at 140a max, which you'll only get a high RPMs. So, at idle, your alt probably does close to 50-60A. Figure that 30-35 of that is needed to actually run the car, leaving you with about 30A at idle to power an amplifier system that, at max output, is trying to draw 254A. Obviously, you are 220A short, and that'* a LOT for the battery to provide. Even at 1600W, your amps will draw (at max RMS power) 127A, which is still way more than the alt puts out at idle. I can't imagine that your battery will last very long with the extreme power demand.
I've been into car audio since about 1997, and the same issues are still around. A lot of people don't realize that their big, high-output amplifiers require a lot of current, oftentimes much more than their alternator is able to provide.
Okay, i trust that you know what you are talking about and with my knowledge i understand it all so i see that your right. And you assumed right i am running 1600 rms. So could you give me some tips on what to do with my system and get it pushin as much as i can? Thanks for your input.
08-09-2005, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by WxGuy1
From the audiobahn website, the A8000T amps put out 800w at 2ohms. So, two of them should be 1600w at 2ohms. Now, this is just fine, since, if you really were running amps totalling 3200w, you'd have some problems... I'm assuming your system runs 1600w RMS and near 3200w max, which doesn't mean much since amplifier output when above RMS is usually pretty bad.
Total current needed to run at 3200w = 3200W / 14V / 0.9 = 254A ... The division by 0.9 takes into account amplifier inefficiency (class Ds usually have around 90% efficiency). Now, if you have a stock alt, it'* probably rated at 140a max, which you'll only get a high RPMs. So, at idle, your alt probably does close to 50-60A. Figure that 30-35 of that is needed to actually run the car, leaving you with about 30A at idle to power an amplifier system that, at max output, is trying to draw 254A. Obviously, you are 220A short, and that'* a LOT for the battery to provide. Even at 1600W, your amps will draw (at max RMS power) 127A, which is still way more than the alt puts out at idle. I can't imagine that your battery will last very long with the extreme power demand.
I've been into car audio since about 1997, and the same issues are still around. A lot of people don't realize that their big, high-output amplifiers require a lot of current, oftentimes much more than their alternator is able to provide.
Total current needed to run at 3200w = 3200W / 14V / 0.9 = 254A ... The division by 0.9 takes into account amplifier inefficiency (class Ds usually have around 90% efficiency). Now, if you have a stock alt, it'* probably rated at 140a max, which you'll only get a high RPMs. So, at idle, your alt probably does close to 50-60A. Figure that 30-35 of that is needed to actually run the car, leaving you with about 30A at idle to power an amplifier system that, at max output, is trying to draw 254A. Obviously, you are 220A short, and that'* a LOT for the battery to provide. Even at 1600W, your amps will draw (at max RMS power) 127A, which is still way more than the alt puts out at idle. I can't imagine that your battery will last very long with the extreme power demand.
I've been into car audio since about 1997, and the same issues are still around. A lot of people don't realize that their big, high-output amplifiers require a lot of current, oftentimes much more than their alternator is able to provide.
as i stated above:
each amp has a pair of 30A fuses. that mean the amp has a peak current draw around 60A. that amp couldnt break 1000w with a 3000A alternator
08-09-2005, 08:05 PM
#20
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This site might be more helpful for power calculations:
http://members.aol.com/sgood73730/power.html
http://members.aol.com/sgood73730/power.html