Alright guys, here'* the problem with Vonny. She'* approaching 200K but she still has the same problems as she'* had. The voltage drop is scaring me to death. I have in my possession now a reconditioned OEM alternator. When I start her, the volt meter goes to 14 volts and after 10 or so minutes, it drops to the center of the meter, about 12 volts. I'm wondering if there'* any way I can get her to stay at 14 volts. I'm adding 2 12 inch subs shortly and will be doing the Big 3 as well. I'm trying to beef up her electrical as much as I can so I don't murder her. I want to buy a Optima Red top for under the hood since I'll be buying a yellow top for the trunk to power the subs and such. I know this is a noob'ish question, but some batteries say something along the lines of "Voltage: 14 Volts". Does this mean she will stay at 14 volts? My Trailblazer, Bertha, always stays at exactly 14 volts. I want Vonny to do the same. Please, anybody, help.

Volt meters in cars are good for reference and lame for accuracy. And never read the same car for car. What your seeing in the Bonny is the voltage regulator at work. It is normal for it to slide in voltage as the battery is charged to capacity, To constantly charge a battery on high voltage only burns them out. You can't conquer voltage drop by upping the voltage when adding audio equipment. It is the amperage deficit that causes the drop. With the big 3, and second battery in the trunk you should be fine. If it takes the Bonny 10 minutes for the voltage to settle (and it should settle) you may have a leaking rear shock. That would cause the air compressor to kick on without the key on.

ok here is the thing... ur gonna see the highest voltage at startup.. cause thats when the car idles the highest.. it will level off as the car warms up and the idle drops...

start with doing your big 3 upgrade and a Nice battery under the hood...

just cause the battery says 14v doesnt mean it will rest at 14v... it just means it can hold up to 14v... there are also 18v car batteries... made for competitions mainly tho... if u got any more audio questions let me know

Thank you Venom. If by shock you mean the shock for the suspension, I've heard I need rear shocks since I got her. You think that could be the problem?

I have plenty of questions bro. lol. I don't know if you saw, but I now have 2 12 inch Sundown Audio SA-12'* Dual 4 ohms. What kind of battery do you think would be good for under the hood? I've looked at Interstate and Optima. I want something like XS power or maybe a yellow top for the trunk but that'* later on.

i havent done a ton of research on batteries... but i just got the inside scoop from some proffesional car audio guys (db draggers, medium power and high power Daily Drivers) and never should buy a Lead Acid battery....

Optimas are better but arent as good as they once were...

this is car audio rule of thumb!!
buy the largest battery made for electronics (XS, Shuriken, Juice Box, ect) that will fit in the stock location, dont skimp here as this is ur starting point and if u ever upgrade this is where u will get ur headroom... Do the Big 3 obviously, add a stout battery in the trunk if u still need it, but i bought u will if u do the first things i listed...

what kind of amp r u running? and at what ohm?

Yes on the shocks. When they leak the rear settles and the air compressors kicks in to level the car. It is a function that is not regulated by the key. So it drains the battery down.

As I mentioned previously, the voltage regulator is what truly determines voltage. Not idle speed. It senses what the voltage of the battery is and ramps up accordingly. Raptor'* good at blowing his chit up, and that'* about it. ;-p And I don't care how that'* taken given the threads I can provide proving this out.

Ok so no interstate and no optima. So an XS for under the hood and the Big 3. I feel like I may still need the extra battery for the trunk. Just to be sure my girl is ok. That may be a while though. Funds dipped low again and work slowed down for me. I can't wait to find a new job honestly. What kind of XS are we talking though, and how much do you think it'd run me?

The amp I'm going to be running is an AudioQue 1200D. I'm going to wire them both down to 1 ohm and use them one 1 channel. I know they are underrated but I'm new to the audio game and I don't want to damage them. lol

Hmmm. I may have to change those as well. I mean, I have an old Diehard Gold under the hood. I've heard nothing but bad things about them. I love my girl. lol

So how would I determine the voltage regulator voltage? is there a way? Because my voltage ALWAYS drops down to right above the red and she shakes. It scares me honestly. lol. I've seen countless threads from Raptor of his builds. Honestly, it amazes me.

even tho ur AQ amp has 2 pairs of speaker terminals it is still a monoblock (1 channel amp) it just has 2 pairs for wiring ease.. both + terminals connect on the inside same with the negatives..
My DD system is similar power wise.. 1000rms all the time no matter what voltage (11v-14.4+) or ohms (1.5-4) so i know whats needed to make ur electrical stout with ur setup...getting batteries that have side and top post makes things easier as well

just hold off on the second battery for now..

and Venom... i have learned alot about car audio in the last 5 months... and my car sits at 14.2V at idle and with stereo at full tilt.. havent blown anything.. but have procrastinated in the past..