There have been many threads in the past about how and where to run a power wire for an aftermarket amplifier. Unfortunately, those posts no longer have photos posted in them.

I am planning to run another power wire (8 gauge for those who are interested) and I plan to connect it to the power connection point under the maxifuse panel. I plan to drill the hole next to the multipin connector, as many have used in the past.

My question: What happens on the other side of that hole? I understand I may need to remove the glove box, the airbag may or may not be in the way. But WHERE does it come in on the interior side of the car? Is it easier to route it down the driver'* side channel or the passenger'* side channel? (I mean the channels along the sides below where the doors close, I don't know if these have a real name.)

I will have a fuse just after the power connection point.

If someone has pictures, please post them, because the old threads have no pictures.

Thanks in advance for help/advice.
-Mark

hope that helps a bit

Thank you very much. I am glad you replied in particular, because I think you had one of the better write-ups in the past. Although I couldn't find it again when I searched. Still, I think it was you that had a good write-up in the past.

Incidentally, if we can re-visit the part about which side is easier to run the power line, driver -vs- passenger. . .you replied "no". I think you meant this as in "no, it is not easier on the driver side, therefore it is easier on the passenger side." Am I reading you correctly?

Thx again,
-Mark

I understand this is the location to drill through to pass a power wire through the firewall. Question: Will I be drilling through just the plastic here, or will I be drilling through steel behind the plastic as well?

Now that I've gotten a good look at the +12 volt tap under the Maxifuse cover, I'm leaning towards connecting directly to the battery and going with a 4 gauge wire instead of an 8 gauge wire connected to the +12 volt tap. There'* already a bunch of stuff connected to the +12 volt tap, and I think the battery would be a better connection, a better supply, and a safer way to wire things up.

But after taking a look under the maxifuse cover, I wondered if I'm in for drilling through just plastic, or plastic and steel.

-Mark

the place with the area is fine to drill into. you will go through the plastic cover and then behind that will be metal.

yes I meant the pass side is easier than the driver side.

Going directly to the battery is a good idea, fuse it within 12" from the battery. The closer to the battery the better but it doesn't have to be ontop of it.

If I were you I would run 4ga all the way back just incase someday you wish to expand your system a bit.

Thank you VERY much!
I already returned the 8 gauge amp wiring kit and exchanged it for a 4 gauge and bought an extended GM-compatible brass battery terminal bolt.
I will go ahead and drill the hole, THANK YOU for the info about going through both plastic and steel. -That makes big difference what bit I will use! And I'll make sure to grommet the thing really well, too.

Yes, I'll fuse it within about 4 inches of the battery connection.
And also THANK YOU for the info on going down the passenger side.

History: Back when I got my car in 1999 I had a shop install an aftermarket Pioneer CD head unit, 12 disk CD changer, Aux input adapter, all new speakers, and a 4 channel amp. They ran a single 10 gauge (I think) power wire to the tap under the Maxifuse (properly fused) and snaked it through the firewall hole on the driver'* side. However they ALSO ran the line level signal lines down the driver'* side *in addition to* the power wire. -sigh-

So now I'm upgrading to a more powerful amplifier and want to separate the power wire from the signal wires by re-doing the power wire down the passenger side. Also a year ago I had an even newer Pioneer CD head unit put it that will play MP3 CDs and also has a dedicated iPod input.

When I got a good look at the wiring the shop did, I came to the same conclusion you suggested: Go with a 4 gauge down the passenger side, connected directly to the battery. All around, should be better in the long run.

THANKS!!!

-Mark

Ran the wire today. Drilled through, popped in a grommet, pushed the wire through, pulled the kick panel, reached up in there and pulled it through. Pulled up the trim panels along the passenger side, ran the wire down the channel. Pulled out the back seat, ran the wire into the trunk. Stripped the end of the cable & matching 4 gauge ground cable, crimped on a spade connector *with a hammer* (4 gauge cable!), soldered the cables to the connectors with silver solder and a (very) high wattage iron. Slipped insulator boots over the ends. Also did a ring terminal on the other end of the ground cable.

Under the hood I sheathed the power cable in split loom and ran it to the battery. Currently it'* just coiled up next to the battery. Tomorrow I'll install the fuse and the battery connection.

Buttoned up all the trim panels and put the seat back in.

All in all, it went pretty smoothly. It was more work than I expected, but it went fine.

Thanks for the info on the cable!
-Mark

glad to hear all went well installing the wire.

Dude,

After drilling numerous holes in my floor (then sealing them back up) and a couple up high on the drivers and passengers side (following what other people did) I tried your way and It works fantastic! I ran a 4 gauge power cable through that hole to the battery (mounted a fuse holder on the coolant overflow tank) and covered it with split loom conduit the whole way. It looks wicked. (in fact I think a untrained eye wouldn't be able to point it out! Thanks for all the help (escpecially that picture with the big *** red arrow in it!

BumpinBonneville17

and his 1996 Pontiac Bonneville SE