Any good stereo installation will utilize some sound deadening material to help keep unwanted noise out of the car as well as to help get rid of resonant noise produced by vibration of metal panels in the car. I'm a member of another forum owned by a local guy who is a hardcore stereo guy and an internet star of sorts for his insane system builds, one of which is his own 99 Tahoe sitting on 26'*, sporting 30,000 watts of power supplied by Rockford Fosgate amps, 4 18" AA SMD subs in a 20 cubic foot ported box tuned to 30Hz. He still can seat 5 comfortably and his truck is hitting high 150'* on a TL.
He has alot of connections in the car audio world and some manufacturers who have partnered up with him and his forum, one of which is SecondSkin Automotive Insulation. The owner, Anthony Collova, had a giveaway to kickoff this new partnership in which he put up 10 door packs of SecondSkin Damplifier Pro. Members had to post in his thread and agree to the terms of the promotion and after 2 weeks he was going to randomly pick the 10 winners out of all who entered. 68 members entered in that time and he ended up giving all 68 of us a door pack, free wooden roller and a free folding blade to assist in installation of the product. These door packs retail for $60 on the SecondSkin site, plus $8 for the blade and $8 for the roller, that'* a total of $76 retail per pack given away, for a grand total of $5168 worth of product GIVEN AWAY FOR FREE!
Here'* my pics of the product and install
The first thing to do, of course, was remove the door panels and check out the door to see how much of a pain this was going to be. It was already going to be kind of a pain cause I had never before used or applied sound deadening so today was a very special day for me as I got my deadening material virginity popped In the process of removing the panels I ran into a slight issue, the geniuses at Chevy decided to put the plugs in with the release mechanism in the worst possible spot so when I was removing the passenger side panel the window switch broke apart while I was trying to flip the panel upside down so I could gain access to the release mechanism. When I say split apart, I mean just that, the internal pins were exposed and all. I just knew I'd have to pony up for a new switch but I was able to get it back together securely with no issues. Whew, dodged one there.
So I get the panels off and this is what is staring at me
Not too bad, I suppose. Before I go any further I decide to look for the culprit of this nasty, sticky stuff thats on the inside of my window. It'* horrible stuff. I detail cars and have lots of products in my garage but none of them could do any damage to this stuff so I had to resort to using a brillo pad. It got the stuff off but if you look hard enough you can see some fine scratches. Not a big deal, but a deal none the less. So this is the nastiness that'* on my inner window, again.
Close inspection of the door panel and wiring revealed the cause
Again, the geniuses at Chevy came up with a great idea and decided using duct tape on the inner door wiring was the thing to do. The adhesive melted and the tape unraveled, getting that sticky mess on my window
So the first order of the day was to remove the plastic lining from the door panel and handle that issue with the tape. You see what the wiring looked like before, this is what it looks like now
Now I can rest assured that I'll no longer have to worry about the sticky stuff getting on my window and can move on to the real job, should be fun.
I pop open the box of Damplifier Pro and notice the deadener is sticking to the sides, not a big deal, rather an observation. I pulled a little harder and it opened right up. It was a little warm out today so I set a sheet of deadener on my dash board so it can warm up a little and hopefully be a little easier to work with and stick a little better. Worked like a charm! I pulled up a milk crate and proceeded.
Like everybody else who won this via the promotion, I got the Fury blade, but I found myself using a pair of scissors to cut the sheets of material and the knife for cutting the more intricate cuts when the material was on the door; for things like holes for bolts, clips, etc. Worked out well. The Fury blade looks pretty sick but when I first picked it up it didn't scream "high quality" or "heavy duty", my first impression was "Wow, this thing is pretty lightweight, I hope it holds up." At the end of the day, it did what I needed it to do and with no issues at all.
My goal was to use as many large, solid pieces as possible, but that didn't work out too well. Far too many ridges, angles, and curves for me to do so. Either that, or I just don't have the technique to do it. I'm thinking a combo of both. In any case, I was able to get the driver side door done with no major issues. It took me about 2-3 hrs to get it done, including a 30 minute lunch break, and about 30 minutes to clean/organize my garage/tools and to reinstall my subs and box which I had removed last weekend after a little technical issue. It felt like it took longer than it really did and i'm sure it should have been done faster but I was taking my sweet time since it was all new to me. The product was easy to work with, although cutting with scissors probably wasn't the best way to go even though it did prevent me from having to get up and go to my work bench every time I needed to cut a sheet. I think i'm going to have to devise a better way to locate screw holes and the like because this stuff is pretty thick so it makes locating the holes beneath a bit of a task if the holes are small. It was very pliable and conformed to the angles and curves of the panel with ease (I think setting it on the dash to get warm prior to using was a good idea). So this is how the first door came out (notice the deadener inside the speaker opening, I covered as much area in there as I could)
I think it came out alright, could be better, but not bad for a deadening material noob.
So I moved on to the passenger side, and aside from the issue I had with the window switch as stated above, it went rather smooth. I got this one done in about an hour to hour and a half. I hadn't had any issues with the wiring getting adhesive on the window but I noticed this side also had duct tape on it which was loose and sloppy so I handled that before I started the deadening.
Once I was done and had removed all tools and what not from inside my car, I closed the door and heard a solid "thud", it put a smile on my face. It sounded far less hollow and more solid than before...the sound was so impressive that after cleaning up my mess and locking everything up, I watered my lawn and once I was done with that I went over to my car and opened and closed the doors again just to hear it. LOL.
Once again, big ups to Ant for the promotion, the product is easy to work with and even though I haven't been able to confirm yet how much of a difference it made when playing music, the sound of my doors closing has me feeling very optimistic about it. The freebie folding knife looks cool as hell and came in handy during the install. So far, I give it two thumbs up, I'll report back once I get my speakers in and powered up.
After deadening the doors up nicely I had about 3 or 4 sheets of deadener left and ended up using that to deaden the rear deck. Talk about pain in the *ss! Cramped working space, lots of curves and ridges as well as lots of hurdles to clear like seat belt anchors, just generally not fun or easy.
With that I was done deadening. What about the trunk, you ask? Well, I had no more SSDP and didn't want to half *ss it so I had some patience, was planning on buying a couple door packs from SS but man, that'* $120! I ended up finishing up my build w/o deadening the trunk at all. But my patience/procrastination paid off cause Ant at SS hooked me up with another door pack for free in another giveaway. I used it on my trunk lid (2 layers) and the trunk sides (including the quarter panels, as far as I could reach) and the "hump" that spans the width of the trunk right behind the rear bumper. My floor was still bare after this but my buddy told me about this stuff at Home Depot called Peel n' Seal. It'* basically an asphalt roof repair material that looks identical to sound deadener but a bit thinner. It'* like $8 a roll so I bought about 4 rolls of it and laid down 3 layers on my trunk floor. Since the stuff is on the floor and out of sight, I had no problems using it for this application. But would never use it anywhere it would be visible or on a vertical or upside down surface since it doesn't have the best adhesion.
For the record, any time I don't have pictures of what I did it'* because I had friends over giving me a hand and we spend so much time talking sh*t that the last thing on my mind is taking pictures.