UIM/LIM repair, what all is needed, PLUS any upgrades...
#1
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UIM/LIM repair, what all is needed, PLUS any upgrades...
I figured I wouldn't clog up gojo'* thread anymore, and create my own.
Anyways, I plan on very soon doing the replacement UIM and doing the LIM gasket as well.
I planned on picking up this kit:
http://www.autopn.com/store/pc/viewP...product=229679
Along with these LIM gaskets:
GM Aluminum Frame Lower Intake Manifold Gasket set: GM PN# 89017816
According to Bill, I will also need some coolant elbows from the Help! section (easy enough, Murray'* has a ton of those parts).
I have tons of brake cleaner and TB cleaner already. I have my own fareshare of sockets and open ends as well. BTW, do the LIM bolts need to be torqued to any spec, or is it just good-n-tite? I have also picked up a 180* thermostat as well, and I have the little rubber gasket, but I'm sure i'm missing the housing gasket. Any PN'* on this as well?
Bill also informed me of the bolt right around the TB as well. I'll probably look at that tomorrow while I'm at work, and figure my plan of action on that. I'll report back with any ways of getting to it easily enough.
So... anything that I'm missing? I'm pretty mechanically inclined, so doing intake gaskets doesn't really scare me any.
ALSO, are there any mods that I should look at doing while the intakes are torn apart?
Thanks!
Anyways, I plan on very soon doing the replacement UIM and doing the LIM gasket as well.
I planned on picking up this kit:
http://www.autopn.com/store/pc/viewP...product=229679
Along with these LIM gaskets:
GM Aluminum Frame Lower Intake Manifold Gasket set: GM PN# 89017816
According to Bill, I will also need some coolant elbows from the Help! section (easy enough, Murray'* has a ton of those parts).
I have tons of brake cleaner and TB cleaner already. I have my own fareshare of sockets and open ends as well. BTW, do the LIM bolts need to be torqued to any spec, or is it just good-n-tite? I have also picked up a 180* thermostat as well, and I have the little rubber gasket, but I'm sure i'm missing the housing gasket. Any PN'* on this as well?
Bill also informed me of the bolt right around the TB as well. I'll probably look at that tomorrow while I'm at work, and figure my plan of action on that. I'll report back with any ways of getting to it easily enough.
So... anything that I'm missing? I'm pretty mechanically inclined, so doing intake gaskets doesn't really scare me any.
ALSO, are there any mods that I should look at doing while the intakes are torn apart?
Thanks!
#2
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I don't have any answers for you but am interested to read the posts. I am also looking at doing this down the road a bit. I have heard of a few parts here and there mentioned but haven't run across a complete list yet, although I am sure its here somewhere.
Grant
Grant
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I will leave the rest to the pros but yes yes yes to the torque wrench.Search will answer all, there are lots of threads on this.
#4
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Expert Gearhead
Overall..there aren't any mods I'd suggest at this point. We had a three test cases for porting lower intake manifolds and two blew motors quickly afterward. (One may have been improper torque specs).. For those reasons, I would say straight up maintenance/fix in your case.
Oh..check the EGR tubes over well. They like to develop cracks right at the base of the tubes where they bolt up.
Oh..check the EGR tubes over well. They like to develop cracks right at the base of the tubes where they bolt up.
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You're gonna need an inch pound torque wrench. The LIM is 132 inch pounds and the UIM is 89 inch pounds.
Torque Sequence LIM
Torque Sequence UIM
Snug all the bolts by hand first, then make two passes. Make the first pass at half spec and then do the final pass to full spec.
Torque Sequence LIM
Torque Sequence UIM
Snug all the bolts by hand first, then make two passes. Make the first pass at half spec and then do the final pass to full spec.
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Overall..there aren't any mods I'd suggest at this point. We had a three test cases for porting lower intake manifolds and two blew motors quickly afterward. (One may have been improper torque specs).. For those reasons, I would say straight up maintenance/fix in your case.
Oh..check the EGR tubes over well. They like to develop cracks right at the base of the tubes where they bolt up.
Oh..check the EGR tubes over well. They like to develop cracks right at the base of the tubes where they bolt up.
But does it work, and is it REALLY worth the dough?
Also, whats the cure for the cracked egr tubes? Full replacement?
MACDRIVE, thanks for the sequence, that'll be helpful!
Am I missing any parts?
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Do you already have the throttle body gasket?
I'm thinking you're going to need some black RTV to put around the elbow o-rings before you slide the elbows in.
If you're going to clean the TB, you might get you some Scotch-Brite pads.
Don't forget to drain the radiator before you start; otherwise, you'll have coolant all over the place when you pull the manifolds.
I'm thinking you're going to need some black RTV to put around the elbow o-rings before you slide the elbows in.
If you're going to clean the TB, you might get you some Scotch-Brite pads.
Don't forget to drain the radiator before you start; otherwise, you'll have coolant all over the place when you pull the manifolds.
#9
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I'll add the TB gasket to the list. Didn't even think of that!
I already have scotch brite pads.
Gotta pick up some of the black RTV.
I already have scotch brite pads.
Gotta pick up some of the black RTV.
#10
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True Car Nut
Your APN kit will come with a throttle body gasket.
And....here are my recommendations for UIM/LIM repairs for the 95-05 L36.
Please note that if you cannot wait for parts in the mail, you will not get the best fix.
The best fix for the LIM - GM aluminum frame gaskets......$59
The best fix for the coolant elbow(*) Dorman Help.........$6
The best fix for the UIM - APN upper intake manifold kit......$115 including shipping
In addition, I recommend the following steps to keep engine operating temperatures down, to ensure that coolant flows around the hot stovepipe area in the plastic UIM, and to eliminate any possible harm from the use of Dex-cool - all factors that protect and extend the life of the UIM and LIM gaskets.
Flush coolant and re-fill with "mixes with any color"
Drill a 1/16" hole in a 180F thermostat flange and refill according to: http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=article&k=100
Install an after-market transmission cooler.
I use only a scraper and degreaser to clean gasket surfaces on the cylinder heads to avoid introducing abrasives into the engine. I use blue loctite on the LIM and UIM bolts.
I remove the exhaust crossover for better access to the throttle body bolts and easier removal of the LIM.
Regarding the UIM, the longest-lasting fix will come from an upper intake manifold protected by a heat shield and the use of a reduced diameter stovepipe to provide an insulating gap between the hot stovepipe and the metal heat shield. The only commercially available kit that provides those features is from APN. Dorman UIMs have NO heat shield protection for the plastic EGR bore, but rely solely on the insulating gap provided by a reduced diameter stovepipe.
UIMs can be sleeved, plugged, and otherwise repaired for re-use, and these repairs can be made at low cost. But, unless the UIM is fairly new, most will typically exhibit warpage at the throttle body sealing surface and at the coolant passage sealing surfaces around the EGR bore. When considering repair of a UIM, don't forget to add the costs of a new UIM-LIM gasket and throttle body gasket, typically about $45.
From Sears, a smaller 3/8" drive deflecting beam type torque wrench does just fine for UIM/LIM work. It costs $25. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944690000
And....here are my recommendations for UIM/LIM repairs for the 95-05 L36.
Please note that if you cannot wait for parts in the mail, you will not get the best fix.
The best fix for the LIM - GM aluminum frame gaskets......$59
The best fix for the coolant elbow(*) Dorman Help.........$6
The best fix for the UIM - APN upper intake manifold kit......$115 including shipping
In addition, I recommend the following steps to keep engine operating temperatures down, to ensure that coolant flows around the hot stovepipe area in the plastic UIM, and to eliminate any possible harm from the use of Dex-cool - all factors that protect and extend the life of the UIM and LIM gaskets.
Flush coolant and re-fill with "mixes with any color"
Drill a 1/16" hole in a 180F thermostat flange and refill according to: http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=article&k=100
Install an after-market transmission cooler.
I use only a scraper and degreaser to clean gasket surfaces on the cylinder heads to avoid introducing abrasives into the engine. I use blue loctite on the LIM and UIM bolts.
I remove the exhaust crossover for better access to the throttle body bolts and easier removal of the LIM.
Regarding the UIM, the longest-lasting fix will come from an upper intake manifold protected by a heat shield and the use of a reduced diameter stovepipe to provide an insulating gap between the hot stovepipe and the metal heat shield. The only commercially available kit that provides those features is from APN. Dorman UIMs have NO heat shield protection for the plastic EGR bore, but rely solely on the insulating gap provided by a reduced diameter stovepipe.
UIMs can be sleeved, plugged, and otherwise repaired for re-use, and these repairs can be made at low cost. But, unless the UIM is fairly new, most will typically exhibit warpage at the throttle body sealing surface and at the coolant passage sealing surfaces around the EGR bore. When considering repair of a UIM, don't forget to add the costs of a new UIM-LIM gasket and throttle body gasket, typically about $45.
From Sears, a smaller 3/8" drive deflecting beam type torque wrench does just fine for UIM/LIM work. It costs $25. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944690000