Changing coolant
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Changing coolant
Since the 5 years are almost up on the life of the Bonneville'* coolant, I decided to go ahead and change it now. Much to my surprise was the fact that there is no drain on the radiator. It'* hard to believe you have to take out the radiator to drain the system but I don't see any other alternatives. I did look around on the bottom of the block and found what I assume is the coolant temperature sensor near the oil filter. That would at least drain the block.
Am I off in left field or is there an easier way to drain the coolant?
Am I off in left field or is there an easier way to drain the coolant?
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The drain is located on the drivers side lower rad area, you need to remove the air dam for better access. First remove and clean the rad cap for better flow.
Completely drain the cooling system by opening the radiator drain **** at the bottom of the radiator.
If the coolant is dirty, or if there are deposits in the radiator, flush the cooling system before refilling.
Disconnect the hose from the coolant recovery reservoir. Remove the reservoir.
Clean the outside of the coolant recovery reservoir. Pour out any fluid.
Thoroughly clean the inside of the reservoir using soap and water.
Thoroughly flush the reservoir with clean water. Drain the reservoir.
Install the reservoir. Connect the reservoir hose.
Fill the radiator and the coolant resevoir (to the full cold line) with GM Goodwrench® DEX-COOL® or Havoline® DEX-COOL®. To ensure sufficient engine cooling, freezing and corrosion protection, maintain the protection level at -37°C (-34°F) lower.
Wait for two minutes and recheck the level of the coolant in the radiator. If necessary, add coolant to radiator until the coolant level is at the base of the radiator fill neck.
Install the radiator pressure cap, making sure the arrows on the cap line up with the coolant recovery tube.
Place the heater and A/C control in any A/C mode except Max and the temperature in the highest setting.
Start the engine and allow to idle until the lower radiator to coolant pump hose is hot.
Cycle the engine speed up to about 3000 rpm and back to idle five times. Slowly open the bleed valve on the top of the thermostat housing for approximately 15 seconds to expel any trapped air in the cooling system.
Close the air bleed valve. Do not overtighten.
Allow the engine to cool to outside temperature. Ensure the coolant level in the reservoir and the radiator are at the proper levels.
Completely drain the cooling system by opening the radiator drain **** at the bottom of the radiator.
If the coolant is dirty, or if there are deposits in the radiator, flush the cooling system before refilling.
Disconnect the hose from the coolant recovery reservoir. Remove the reservoir.
Clean the outside of the coolant recovery reservoir. Pour out any fluid.
Thoroughly clean the inside of the reservoir using soap and water.
Thoroughly flush the reservoir with clean water. Drain the reservoir.
Install the reservoir. Connect the reservoir hose.
Fill the radiator and the coolant resevoir (to the full cold line) with GM Goodwrench® DEX-COOL® or Havoline® DEX-COOL®. To ensure sufficient engine cooling, freezing and corrosion protection, maintain the protection level at -37°C (-34°F) lower.
Wait for two minutes and recheck the level of the coolant in the radiator. If necessary, add coolant to radiator until the coolant level is at the base of the radiator fill neck.
Install the radiator pressure cap, making sure the arrows on the cap line up with the coolant recovery tube.
Place the heater and A/C control in any A/C mode except Max and the temperature in the highest setting.
Start the engine and allow to idle until the lower radiator to coolant pump hose is hot.
Cycle the engine speed up to about 3000 rpm and back to idle five times. Slowly open the bleed valve on the top of the thermostat housing for approximately 15 seconds to expel any trapped air in the cooling system.
Close the air bleed valve. Do not overtighten.
Allow the engine to cool to outside temperature. Ensure the coolant level in the reservoir and the radiator are at the proper levels.
#3
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Major Dad, thank you very much. Now, if I had just posted before I dove in. I did pull off the air dam first thing, looked around for a real petcock and not finding one, assumed that I had to pull the radiator, as illogical as it sounds. I removed the fans with some difficulty and at about that point, realized that this just couldn't be right.
I think I could have looked for an hour under there and still never have found it without your help. Oh well, at least if I ever have to change the fans, I know how.
I think I could have looked for an hour under there and still never have found it without your help. Oh well, at least if I ever have to change the fans, I know how.
#4
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And the saga continues. The first upper hose was wrong so they ordered a second, different one. I had left the old one with them and when I got there tonight, they said that as far as they could tell by cross referencing everyone who makes aftermarket hoses, no one makes one that is an exact fit for the 2000+. I guess I'll be calling the dealer tomorrow to order one.
While I didn't capture all of the coolant when I drained it, I probably got 95% of it and I only measure about 6 quarts. Does this sound right or should I be looking at trying to drain the block?
While I didn't capture all of the coolant when I drained it, I probably got 95% of it and I only measure about 6 quarts. Does this sound right or should I be looking at trying to drain the block?
#5
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Found an eaiser way to do this today. Just pull the front knock sensor. Its probably clogged anyway and should be cleared out.
Easy to get to from under the car with long extension and you dont have to remove the air dam.
Easy to get to from under the car with long extension and you dont have to remove the air dam.
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A most excellent suggestion, Rogue. I crawled underneath not knowing what I was looking for but when I saw two identical units, one in back of the starter and one above the transmission pan, I knew it had to be them. You do need a 22mm socket but it was very easy and quick.
I got another roughly quart and a half out of that side and I'm assuming you could get some more out if you took out the rear one. It looked a little harder to get at than I was willing to tackle since I'm going to flush the system with water before I add the anti-freeze. The owner'* manual said the total cooling system capacity was 10 quarts so I got about 3/4 of it.
I got another roughly quart and a half out of that side and I'm assuming you could get some more out if you took out the rear one. It looked a little harder to get at than I was willing to tackle since I'm going to flush the system with water before I add the anti-freeze. The owner'* manual said the total cooling system capacity was 10 quarts so I got about 3/4 of it.
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Sorry I didnt respond to this earlier, yea if you pull the knock sensor first it will drain most of the system. I didnt take off the rear one so not sure how much more would come from that side if any. Probably what is left is in the water pump.
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I forgot to mention that while I was sorting things out last night trying to determine what was what, I saw a wire going into one of the front freeze plugs. At first, it didn't register but after a bit, I realized that it was the factory block heater that I had ordered with the car. I had always wondered where GM put the heater and it was good to know that they put it in the best location for effectiveness. With a 2 car garage and my wife'* van on one side and my 70 Camaro on the other, the Bonneville is odd car out and so I use the heater during the winter for a quicker warmup.
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