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Code P0128 and P0440

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Old 09-11-2005, 02:48 PM
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Default Code P0128 and P0440

Ok guys, I'm stumped!

Earlier this week my car flashed up a code P0128 (Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature). It'* been cool here the past few days, but still getting up into the upper 80'* or low 90'*. I replaced the thermostat a while back with a 180 so it should be running cooler, this is the first time it'* registered a code though. The guage on the dash shows the temp at being between 150 and 200 depending on how long I've been driving and how cool it is.

Two days later I get a code P0440 (Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System). The code got registered when I had a little upder half a tank which was correctly displayed n the guage. I checked the gas cap and it'* on tight.

So my questions are these:

1) Is there a chance these codes are related in some way...seems suspicious to get them both in such a short amount of time.

2) For the ETC code, any chance that will go away if I get an Intense PCM set to kick the fans on at 180? Any chance it'* actually the temp sensor? I'm hesitant to think this because it is registering a value

3) Other than the gas cap being loose, what are some of the other common problems that would cause the evap code? I've heard a cracked filler tube can do it, is it something that lots of people have had happen?

Thanks!!
Old 09-11-2005, 04:08 PM
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1) Is there a chance these codes are related in some way...seems suspicious to get them both in such a short amount of time.

2) For the ETC code, any chance that will go away if I get an Intense PCM set to kick the fans on at 180? Any chance it'* actually the temp sensor? I'm hesitant to think this because it is registering a value

3) Other than the gas cap being loose, what are some of the other common problems that would cause the evap code? I've heard a cracked filler tube can do it, is it something that lots of people have had happen?
1) No
2) No. Unless you get INTENSE to program out that code. It is possible that you have a defective stat. This code will be set if your engine does not heat up in a set amount of time...indicative of a stat that is sticking open....or one that is drilled for delayed warm up.
3) It is common for this to happen. Clear the code and see if it happens again. Mine has done it a couple of times years ago but not in a long time now.

My code reader shows impending codes and actual codes. The coolant code will only set after the second time in a row that the engine fails to reach operating temp within a certain time limit.
Old 09-11-2005, 05:02 PM
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The t-stat I put in is supposed to fail in the open position if it fails....I'll go head up to autozone and get the codes cleared and try for a replacement t-stat.
Old 09-11-2005, 08:01 PM
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well went up to autozone and had them clear the codes and grabbed a new t-stat. Turns out the one I bought like two months ago doesnt' carry any kind of warranty although it did do what it was supposed to..failed in the open positioon. After I pulled it out I tossed it in a sinkful of freakin' hot water and sho' nuff nothing happened.

So I replaced the t-stat and the coolant temp sensor (already bought and figured i'd go ahead and put it in) and no codes yet. I had the autozone guy clear them all before I left so we'll see just how bad this EVAP thing is.

Thing is, while I had the car running with the hood up checking the coolant level, I think I was hearing some kind of vacuum leak. Without another 3800 to compare it to though I'm not really sure. I may buy the new hoses for the engine compartment for the EVAP system and replace them if the code comes back. Come to think of it, the boost gauge very rarely reads -10 like it used to...I think someone in another post indicated that might be a sign of a vacuum leak. Does that sound about right?
Old 09-11-2005, 08:09 PM
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Check your vacuum connections at the boost control solenoid and all others on the top end. It'* common for those to loosen with the boost pressure and then not hold vacuum.
Old 09-17-2005, 02:35 PM
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Default boost control solenoid connections

Originally Posted by 2000SilverBullet
Check your vacuum connections at the boost control solenoid and all others on the top end. It'* common for those to loosen with the boost pressure and then not hold vacuum.
I took at look at my connections to the boost control solenoid this morning. Mine has 2 ports on it; the lower one had a vacuum line stuck on it and the upper had a badly deteriorated piece of foam on it, which seems to be the source of a vacuum leak.

So I'm wondering, should I replace that foam piece with other or can I just put some kind of cap on it and all it good? I checked the service manual and while it doesn't say what it is or why it'* there, the only pictures I've found show a little block on the upper port, no vacuum line going anywhere.

Anyone else have this foam piece on theirs? Was foam used because it'* breathable?
Old 09-17-2005, 02:47 PM
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That'* the vent line. Ignore it. Most of us don't have the foam any more.
Old 09-18-2005, 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by willwren
That'* the vent line. Ignore it. Most of us don't have the foam any more.
I put a vacuum line cap on it that I got at Advanced Auto. I stuck my finger on it with the car running and at idle it'* definitely sucking some air in....or rather it was. I would think that there wouldn't be any suction on a vent???
Old 09-18-2005, 12:00 PM
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That'* your problem. It should not leak. It is an exhaust port so it should not be sucking in air. Your solenoid is bad. Replace it. Don't plug it.
Old 09-18-2005, 12:03 PM
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It could be either the BCS or BCA leaking. LakevilleSSEi has a bad BCA right now. His boost indication is off, and a couple other minor vacuum problems to boot. I'm sending him one of my two spares monday. His BCA is leaking internally.

Do not plug that vent.


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