Trans mounts/motor mounts bad?
#12
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I figure the way this car is driving, going 300 miles in a week for work, the motor will probably fall out on its own in a few weeks.
Its coming out, like it or not. Hammer or torch, one way or another.
I'll bet 600 lb/ft of impact wrench on it will do something.
But, what is the easiest way to actually remove the thing? Do you have to take the mounting bracket off the trans, or can you jack the assembly up to get the mount out? I've never done mounts on a transverse motor.. just rwd'*. Ya know.. the easier ones.
#13
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NVM. Did it anyway. Not much a big impact gun can't bust loose, or simply bust.
Old one is pretty cracked, but, it still pops exactly the same sound, noise, pitch, everything, with the new one in. The only difference between the old and new mounts I can tell is I can't rock the motor like I did before, (as in Bill'* clips).
I don't understand. It did absolutely nothing but waste my time. Sure, the motor doesn't move, but it still pops on changing gears, and it goes down the road like a wheel is gonna fall off.
Anyone got other ideas? I have a driver side control arm just sitting here, new bushings and ball joint. Not sure what good that will do, but I doubt it would be worse. I just don't know where to go from here.
Old one is pretty cracked, but, it still pops exactly the same sound, noise, pitch, everything, with the new one in. The only difference between the old and new mounts I can tell is I can't rock the motor like I did before, (as in Bill'* clips).
I don't understand. It did absolutely nothing but waste my time. Sure, the motor doesn't move, but it still pops on changing gears, and it goes down the road like a wheel is gonna fall off.
Anyone got other ideas? I have a driver side control arm just sitting here, new bushings and ball joint. Not sure what good that will do, but I doubt it would be worse. I just don't know where to go from here.
#16
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If I hold the brakes, it will still pop. Anytime there is a shift in the momentum of the drivetrain.
Going forward, stop, then rear it will pop. Sometimes a little one, then a bigger one. Same going from reverse to forward. I've even heard it pop at low speeds if I shift from 3rd down to 2nd, it will pop when 2nd engages. (I have some steep hills around here...)
Struts are brand new. Have all of 8k on them. And yeah, they are GXP spec FE5 GM struts, complete with new upper and lower seats and upper bearing hats. Only thing I have there that is used are the springs, which are FE5 spec from Morad parts. Same with the sway bar. Its FE5 spec, all new mounts and hardware, and its all tightened up.
Both bearings are new, tried 3 different pairs of axles (original GM, GSP, and now Dorman). New outer ball joints (Moog parts). Inners are fine. Feels out of balance. Like a tire or wheel. Did it with my previous set of 4 tires, had them balanced 2x with no difference. Got 4 new tires, no difference.
Have new rotors and pads up front, and the mounting surfaces are all clean of any rust or build up.
Turning right seems to aggravate the issues. Things are better when its colder out. When I start out in the morning, it still pops, but the vibrations aren't quite so bad until I've driven a few miles. By the time I get close to work (about 30 miles away) its rough.
Main thing I was thinking, the only things I haven't replaced are the control arms (bushings and ball joint), so thats all I have left, really. Hence why I bought one side to try. Someone mentioned it might be the arm sliding back and forth.
But it sounds like it comes right from the plastic hubcap. It even has that tone to it. Like someone hit it with a rock from the inside. Since I'm a musician and recording engineer, I only wish I could put a mic near some things and see. (Like the professional chassis ears).
The brakes and whole driveline shudder real bad when slowing down from 60 to about the 30-35 zone. And If I accelerate hard in the same zone, I get shudder there as well. Also notice when I am stopped, going to turn left, and I pull out onto the road, it feels like I'm driving over rocks as the car takes the corner.
Sounds like an axle/CV joint, but I've been through so many. 3 pairs now... even when they were first put in, they didn't stop the noise.
Its been in and out of a couple shops, with no results. One just wanted to sell me an alignment, cuz he really had no other ideas. The other was the place that sold me 4 new tires, and that didn't fix things either.
So, I'm pretty well stuck at this point. I was really hoping that mount would solve things.
What really gets me, is I have nice twisty roads into work, and there is a huge fast * curve (hard right, then hard left into a long straight), and if I push it hard, it feels glued to the road, no bump, no wash out, no wiggle, nothing. Just absolutely planted to the road in those corners. Its slightly downhill, so Im neither on the gas or the brakes at that point, but touching either doesn't seem to upset it, if its still in the hard corner. If I take the same corners stuck behind someone slow, and I'm not pushing it, it will vibrate.
Its like going straight down the road.. it vibrates. Slow cornering, some vibration, medium cornering, lots of vibration, really hard cornering, smooth as butter. I just don't get it?
Going forward, stop, then rear it will pop. Sometimes a little one, then a bigger one. Same going from reverse to forward. I've even heard it pop at low speeds if I shift from 3rd down to 2nd, it will pop when 2nd engages. (I have some steep hills around here...)
Struts are brand new. Have all of 8k on them. And yeah, they are GXP spec FE5 GM struts, complete with new upper and lower seats and upper bearing hats. Only thing I have there that is used are the springs, which are FE5 spec from Morad parts. Same with the sway bar. Its FE5 spec, all new mounts and hardware, and its all tightened up.
Both bearings are new, tried 3 different pairs of axles (original GM, GSP, and now Dorman). New outer ball joints (Moog parts). Inners are fine. Feels out of balance. Like a tire or wheel. Did it with my previous set of 4 tires, had them balanced 2x with no difference. Got 4 new tires, no difference.
Have new rotors and pads up front, and the mounting surfaces are all clean of any rust or build up.
Turning right seems to aggravate the issues. Things are better when its colder out. When I start out in the morning, it still pops, but the vibrations aren't quite so bad until I've driven a few miles. By the time I get close to work (about 30 miles away) its rough.
Main thing I was thinking, the only things I haven't replaced are the control arms (bushings and ball joint), so thats all I have left, really. Hence why I bought one side to try. Someone mentioned it might be the arm sliding back and forth.
But it sounds like it comes right from the plastic hubcap. It even has that tone to it. Like someone hit it with a rock from the inside. Since I'm a musician and recording engineer, I only wish I could put a mic near some things and see. (Like the professional chassis ears).
The brakes and whole driveline shudder real bad when slowing down from 60 to about the 30-35 zone. And If I accelerate hard in the same zone, I get shudder there as well. Also notice when I am stopped, going to turn left, and I pull out onto the road, it feels like I'm driving over rocks as the car takes the corner.
Sounds like an axle/CV joint, but I've been through so many. 3 pairs now... even when they were first put in, they didn't stop the noise.
Its been in and out of a couple shops, with no results. One just wanted to sell me an alignment, cuz he really had no other ideas. The other was the place that sold me 4 new tires, and that didn't fix things either.
So, I'm pretty well stuck at this point. I was really hoping that mount would solve things.
What really gets me, is I have nice twisty roads into work, and there is a huge fast * curve (hard right, then hard left into a long straight), and if I push it hard, it feels glued to the road, no bump, no wash out, no wiggle, nothing. Just absolutely planted to the road in those corners. Its slightly downhill, so Im neither on the gas or the brakes at that point, but touching either doesn't seem to upset it, if its still in the hard corner. If I take the same corners stuck behind someone slow, and I'm not pushing it, it will vibrate.
Its like going straight down the road.. it vibrates. Slow cornering, some vibration, medium cornering, lots of vibration, really hard cornering, smooth as butter. I just don't get it?
#18
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Thread Starter
Sounds like an axle, but I've been through 3 on each side.
1 my stock GM with 115k, 2 Advance Auto GSP brand, 3 Rock Auto Dorman brand.
I hope its not the trans.
What subframe mounts? I replaced the front transmisson to frame mount. Seemed like the logical one, since it popped when the engine would torque over. It was bad, but not what made the sound. And this pop sound came along the same time with the road vibrations.
The actual subframe to body mounts are in good shape, if thats what you mean.
1 my stock GM with 115k, 2 Advance Auto GSP brand, 3 Rock Auto Dorman brand.
I hope its not the trans.
What subframe mounts? I replaced the front transmisson to frame mount. Seemed like the logical one, since it popped when the engine would torque over. It was bad, but not what made the sound. And this pop sound came along the same time with the road vibrations.
The actual subframe to body mounts are in good shape, if thats what you mean.
#19
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Sounds like an axle, but I've been through 3 on each side.
1 my stock GM with 115k, 2 Advance Auto GSP brand, 3 Rock Auto Dorman brand.
I hope its not the trans.
What subframe mounts? I replaced the front transmisson to frame mount. Seemed like the logical one, since it popped when the engine would torque over. It was bad, but not what made the sound. And this pop sound came along the same time with the road vibrations.
The actual subframe to body mounts are in good shape, if thats what you mean.
1 my stock GM with 115k, 2 Advance Auto GSP brand, 3 Rock Auto Dorman brand.
I hope its not the trans.
What subframe mounts? I replaced the front transmisson to frame mount. Seemed like the logical one, since it popped when the engine would torque over. It was bad, but not what made the sound. And this pop sound came along the same time with the road vibrations.
The actual subframe to body mounts are in good shape, if thats what you mean.