slight change to puck mount mod - added pics
I tried the puck mount this week, and although it definitely helped response and smoothed out shifing, I didn't like the vibration I was feeling under light acceleration. So I made a change. I put in a longer 1/2" threaded rod, and added a puck and a washer above the motor mount bracket flange. Now I have washers and 3 pucks between the motor mount flange and the cross member, and 1 puck with 2 washers (one on either side of the puck) between the motor mount bracket flange and the nuts on the top of the threaded rod. The motor mount flange is now between 2 pucks, and the direct metal-to-metal contact to the cross member is eliminated.
The vibration is hardly noticable now, and much more acceptable.
I read most of the threads on this mod I could find, and would like to add a couple of comments. First, someone had mentioned using 5/8" threaded rod, but on my car (2001 SSEi) 5/8" would not pass through the motor mount bracket flange, I had to use 1/2". Second, when I placed a jack stand under the motor mount bracket between the cross member and the engine and lowered the car, the engine did not lift high enough to get the old motor mount out (too long from top bolt to bottom one). I repositioned the jack stand off the motor mount, re-lowered the car, and undid the 3 bolts to remove the motor mount bracket which allowed easy removal of the motor mount.
I apologize if my tweak of the puck mount mod has already been posted, and I just missed it. A lot of the threads complain about the vibration and I thought you might like to know what I did to improve it. I hope my explanation is obvious, but I can post pics if someone wants to understand it better.
2001 Bonneville SSEi (retired at 365,000 Kms.)
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland (yes, I know its not a GM)