Originally Posted by jwfirebird
neither is anything to worry about, it will settle and when they do the alignment it will be right, things move and its actually hard to see things visually because your eyes deceive you. thats why they use machines to do it
Late followup but - I had issues driving it so far out of alignment when you could noticably hear the tires scrape. I used the tape measure approach to set the toe (personal note to self - do camber first, it affects toe). 3.5 inches delta between front and back side of wheel. 5 full turns and I got it within an eigth of an inch and it was in spec when it got aligned. Camber another story. I measures 3.5 degrees positive camber. I looked at the old struts, where to bolts sat and eyeballed them on the new struts. You were right - things move easily and with one hand I was able to synch bolt tight enough to hold. Then tightened to 137 ft lbs. My eyeball was 1 degree out on both sides (positive). I am learning.
In terms of how it rides - so it does sit higher but I do expect some settling. based upon 13 year old struts, it rides lots better even though the struts would probably be considered softer than what came with SLE (Been a long time since I bought so I can't remember). I can say the classic shimmee at 72mph is noticably decreased with nothing done to the tires. that was goodness. and unexpected.
Thanks everyone on the forum. Great having a place an engineer who has a decent amount of car experience can turn to, because I don't have a any experience working on suspensions.