2000-2005 Discuss your 2000-2005 Bonneville SE, SLE, and SSEi Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

r134a will not leave the can

Old 05-22-2007, 10:16 PM
  #1  
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
 
gmfreak's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Holt Mi.
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
gmfreak is on a distinguished road
Default r134a will not leave the can

I bought a recharge kit that has a gauge I hooked it up to the smaller port towards the fire wall and the gauge reads 33psi. I leave it hooked up with the engine running and ac on full blast and the can will not empty and the reading stays the same. Im adding to the system cause the ac is cold only on the pass. side of the system. Im wondering if Im adding to the right service port or not. Thanks for any help out there- Ron
Old 05-22-2007, 10:37 PM
  #2  
RIP
True Car Nut
 
Archon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Grand Rapids, Mi
Posts: 5,656
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Archon is on a distinguished road
Default

Ron, it would have been better to keep this in your original thread, instead of starting a new one.

I don't know how much you know about using it, but to make sure - on the end where you screw on the can, is a piece that you screw in to puncture the can, and then unscrew again to let the freon out of the can and into the system. Have you done that? If so, then you may not have it connected properly on to the schrader valve.
Old 05-22-2007, 11:09 PM
  #3  
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
 
gmfreak's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Holt Mi.
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
gmfreak is on a distinguished road
Default

Im not sure if the smaller port is the low side port or not. I think its hooked up ok, I used these kits on my jeeps over the years. Im not sure if 33 psi is enough of a charge, the needle moves all around then hovers at around 33. the can gets rock hard as soon as I snap it over the port(kind of scary) sorry if its confusing kind of tired.
Old 05-22-2007, 11:15 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
bill buttermore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ames, Iowa
Posts: 3,066
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
bill buttermore is on a distinguished road
Default

Correct me if I am wrong, but you only have one evaporator, right? If so, the fact that the air blows cold on one side might more likely be a ducting problem or an air mix door that isn't working properly on the driver'* side.
Old 05-22-2007, 11:24 PM
  #5  
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
 
gmfreak's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Holt Mi.
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
gmfreak is on a distinguished road
Default

I have checked the actuators and they seem to be in order. I read the post trouble trouble trouble and his car is doing the same thing. I heard that when the freon gets low it will close off half of the system. My last option will be to replace the driver side actuator hopefully with a part from a yard that buys gm test vehicles and rips them apart. I bought a new center counsel lid from a 2002 bonne with 8 miles on it. The yard is called shram in mason Mi.
Old 05-23-2007, 05:52 AM
  #6  
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
bill buttermore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ames, Iowa
Posts: 3,066
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
bill buttermore is on a distinguished road
Default

If it is just a matter of getting the refrigerant into the system, try this: Find a safe, warm place to set the can in the engine compartment that allows you to close the hood. Use a wire or other means if necessary to secure the can. Open the valve on the can and go for a ride. Best if you have an interstate nearby or a quiet road where you can maintain at least 35 mph. The combination of higher compressor rpm and lots of air rushing through the condenser will help the system reach equilibrium more quickly, allowing the refrigerant to be sucked into the system. This has worked very well for me over the years.
Old 05-23-2007, 10:27 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
 
jbmark33's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Edinboro, PA
Posts: 567
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
jbmark33 is on a distinguished road
Default

I am betting that your actualtor is fine, Just keep adding 143a....Make sure you are puncturing the can, then unscrewing the puncture valve to open up the whole in the top of the can while connected to the hose. shake the can, turn it upside down, right side up, shake it again...I think this should work for you.

Is the air coming out hot, or like outside luke-warm air on the drivers side?

If it is hot, just turn the car on, not started, and turn your climate control to heat, then to cold, if you hear the motor clicking or not buzzing, like its working, then its your actuator.

I would bet on the refrigerant first.

Edit - I'm the guy from trouble, trouble....i would bet refrig, over actuator
Old 05-23-2007, 11:50 AM
  #8  
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
 
CMNTMXR57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Chicago (Elgin), IL
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
CMNTMXR57 is on a distinguished road
Default

The adaptor only fits on the low pressure side (which should be cool also if the A/C is/was working somewhat) and will either have a blue’ish green or black cap. The high side port is larger, and in many cases has a red screw on cap.

As to it not taking any when you have the A/C itself on full blast, is an indication that the system is full!!! This is why I HIGHLY recommended that any A/C service, even recharging, be done by a professional, or someone trained in it with the tools and gauges to know what state of charge the system is in. It’* not like filling your tank with gas where you can put more in as you please. Even I hated A/C systems and I was a technician!!

For all you’ve done, your system may actually be full/overfull which can net the same results as undercharged. Did you put in compressor oil (which is generally sold along with the R134a)? In the process you may be doing more damage to the system (due to higher system pressure from the higher levels of refridgerant) than was initially the case, which can then lead to other system/component failure. I’m not saying it is, but just that the possibility exists. I’ve seen it MANY a times.
Old 05-23-2007, 01:46 PM
  #9  
Junior Member
 
vital49's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Purgatory
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
vital49 is on a distinguished road
Default

From the sounds of it, you haven't added any refrigerant at all.

Very simple question - start the car, turn on the A/C on high, open the hood. Is the clutch on the compressor engaged? If it'* not engaged, it'* no wonder why this isn't working out for you.

My next response will tell you how to engage the compressor, if it isn't already.
Old 05-23-2007, 07:06 PM
  #10  
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
 
gmfreak's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Holt Mi.
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
gmfreak is on a distinguished road
Default

The compressor is engaged it just sits at 33 psi and will take no more. The driver side ac is more warm/hot than semi cool and the pass. side is freezing cold. The driver side actuator doesnt move at all when I change the temp. I wasnt sure if the system has shut it down because of low charge or if its burned out? The system worked on and off yesterday but today it was hot on the drivers side all day so I shut the vents.

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: r134a will not leave the can



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:55 AM.