I would have photo-documented, but the camera was unavailable. Total job took about 3 hours (though I could probably do it in 90 minutes now).
Your Regal'* a '98, right? Does it have the cast aluminum pan and wacky bracket?
Some tips (at least, things I found on the 2004 LeSabre H-body):
-I used a single jackstand with a short piece of 4x6 under the tranny pan...this was enough support. You will need a good floor jack to raise and lower the engine, though.
-I did not go as far as total removal of the engine mount bracket...and couldn't have if I'd wanted, because I don't have the right female torx bit for the engine block stud at the top of the bracket, and that bracket wasn't coming completely out of the engine bay without removing that stud. After removing the two bolts into the pan at the bottom of the bracket (15mm or 5/8" wrench), the nut holding onto the stud at the block (deep socket; 15mm or 5/8"), and the big nut holding to the mount (deep socket; 13/16" or 21mm), the bracket had enough movement that I could move it out of the way of the three oil pan bolts it blocks with a pry bar (the bracket was still resting on the long, large bolt coming down out of the mount, but the mount had enough play to allow the prying)
-The oil level sensor pulls straight out after being unscrewed...no interference with the windage tray like on the oil pan I pulled off the '98 engine a few months ago.
-The cast aluminum pan may have sprue, casting flaws, etc in the mating surface of the pan...I had to grind down a sharp point or two in this flange. Also, check the flange for flatness with a straightedge.
-The gasket is just like the valve cover gaskets...it fits into a groove in the oil pan. The old gasket was broken at 4 of the bolt holes...clearly a weak spot. After cleaning out the gasket groove in the pan really well and installing the new gasket, run a fairly thick bead of copper or black RTV around the entire pan flange, just inside the gasket (i.e., to the oil pan'* reservoir side).
-I found that the lower bracket bolts (into the pan) were so close to the frame, that I could not get a torque wrench (or even a socket) on them...I used red threadlocker, a 15mm wrench, and just muscled them until they were very tight. The big nut on the engine mount was accessible through a hole cast in the control arm...I did not need to remove the wheel or the plastic wheelwell insert to access that.
Again, this was on an H-body...I don't know if you'll have the same issues on your Regal.
2004 Buick Lesabre Limited, Gran Touring; Bone Stock
1998 Buick Lesabre Limited, Gran Touring; Mods: Poly sway bushings/endlinks, Tru-Cool trans cooler, Thrasher shift kit (med), PLIM, front PEM; Mods in progress: Alot of stuff, but slowly...