Thanks in advance all!!
I sell cars on the side...mostly high miler Luxury cars BMW,Lexus,Volvo. Pontiac were and are my poison since I was 16. I've been able to get OK high mile SSEi Bonnys, 00-up for nice prices and finally picked one up. A LOT of car for the money...until today. This particular issue showed the other day, but didn't catch it. Now it'* almost all morning....start, restart, run codes (no service engine light on), pulled and checked all fuses in BOTH boxes, swapped relays, pulled the gauges for a wiggle and jiggle...nothing in particular to associate the problem with. Here are the EXACT symptoms during intermittent failure:

Upon startup, Speedo AND Tach does NOT cycle to max like the other gauges (not sure if they do normally). They drop below zero then sit on zero during run/drive.
All other gauges register, boost seems a little sluggish, but may be in my head
Systems monitor gauge BUTTONS do NOT allow me to select thru "mode" or "selection", yet the Trip can be reset.
Mileage/tripometer DO NOT increase during this failure
turn signals don't work (how I noticed originally-heard the clicking AFTER I made a turn)
Hazards DO work
Cruise does NOT work
Brights and lights work (on the same handle as cruise and turn signal)

Now, since I've logged miles, I can't sent it back to the auction for a lack of TMU (true miles unknown) disclosure (my auction HAS to disclose TMU for anything related to the inaccuracy of the mileage)

I install remote starters and alarms for a living. I removed an aftermarket RS/alarm from the car. The "Securty" light is on since I believe the car is using a NON-programmed aftermarket PK3 key(or it may be a passlock II standard key since it'* unmarked with "PK3"). I wiggled and jiggled the ignition wiring to rule that out as well. I feel this is totally separate from the failure since I've been driving the car for 2 days AFTER I removed the RS/alarm. I also logged on 200 miles AFTER the de-install and the problem occured this morning officially.

It'* a shame that this happened as it overall is a nice specimen and I STOLE it. BUT....now I'm limp since it was the door leading to my excuse to buy one for personal use. Now I don't want one if this is common. THANKS IN ADVANCE and I hope I can get some REAL input on some SPECIFICS.
Eric

The tach and speedo come directly off from the PCM. I'd start by checking and reseating the connections on the computer. In case you don't know, that is inside the air box. Could be a grounding problem, also.

Found it....99% sure. The fuse box under the rear seat.....upon my wiggles and jiggles, I got it to work again. So I jumped back under the seat. Wiggled...got it to pop on and off. Thought it was a relay....swapped them all around....same intermittent actions. Narrowed it down to an area of breaker/relay/fuses. Ended up being the Ignition 1 fuse not making full contact. Found it AFTER I pulled surrounding fuses and got no change in action. Pulled the Ignition 1 fuse and got full failure with no intermittent features. Picked the clamps closed and swapped the fuese....perfect. Done. My elbow hurts from patting myself on the back. I'd have to blame a small amount of possible failure from the crappy install on the remote start/alarm....there was also leftovers of a speaker box/amp wiring....so that may have triggered a failure. So.....any signs in the future of this, check the Ignition 1 circuit. I believe there is only that along with Ignition 2. Accessory reads off those and allows the car to start. Or vice-versa- sees acc and allows Ig 2 and 3 to fire up thru the BCM, etc.
Eric

Thanks for reporting back. That'* interesting. This is the second "strange" problem that has been caused by a loose connection to a fuse. The other was a problem that 2000SilverBullet was experiencing with his car. This is the thread.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...582&highlight=

The fix is on the last page. His was the ignition/PCM fuse in the underhood fuse box.