[quote=isnms]I hope that doesn't happen to me, that would freakin' suck.

god, please let this not happen to me.

Thanks for posting the pictures . I am preparing to do the UIM / LIM job on my 1998 L36 . I plan on using the APN replacement upper intake manifold and GM aluminum frame gaskets . I need to get more familiar with the incidental R&R stuff ( on the right sight ( alt, tensioner, elbow replacement etc ) - .. Also do the injectors have to be removed from the fuel rails or can they just be left on and protected while they are suspender out of the way . ? - Thanks


APN UIM kit - http://www.automotivepartsnetwork.co...product=229679

GM LIM gasket -

PN # 89017816 - around $ 50 shipped from www.gmpartsdirect,com or www.partszoneonline.com

Torque wrench - HF (OK?) in lb model -
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=2696

isnms:

If ZZP told you Dorman kits don't come with stovepipes, they must be selling a kit that is different (and cheaper) than any kit from Dorman we have seen here on Bonneville Club.

Or, the kit they sold you could have been incredibly OLD stock. Dorman kits have come with TWO stovepipes for more than a year now, and with one stovepipe for several years before that. Perhaps they did not sell you a Dorman kit. Complete Dorman kits sell for about $125-155.

IMO, the APN kit is a far better choice. It comes with reduced diameter stovepipes and a metal heat shield in the EGR bore. It sells for $115 shipped to your door.

The reduced diameter stovepipes mentioned above provide a protective air gap about twice as large as the stock stovepipe in your car.


jbmark33:



You needed to drain the coolant from the engine before tearing it down. That would have prevented the splash of coolant into your crankcase - never a good idea. It might be a good plan to change the oil and filter again to make sure all the coolant is gone. Coolant is heavier than oil and will fall to the bottom of the pan. Thus, depending on how long the car has been sitting, it may not show on your dipstick.

For anyone contemplating this job, it would be a very good idea to read the entire article posted in Techinfo on the subject: http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=38

I even called them to verify what they sold me. They must be selling OLD stuff.

The only thing I feared going into this whole thing was the fuel rail. I hate working with gas. But, my dad insisted I would do fine, and I did. That being said, I asked around to find the easiest way to get around the fuel rail. Well, I figured out the best way to do it is: take off the 4 fuel rail bolts that bolt into the top of the LIM. then, then purge the gas into an old rag or something. The purge valve is located just north of the Thermostat housing on the fuel rail. After untwisting the cap, push the pin in and let it spray out a little. Then, applying even pressure, work the rail out of the LIM... its kinda scary, but it will pop out all as one unit. Then proceed to take all 6 injectors out of the rail. There will be a total of 12 O-rings, 1 on each side of each injector. I had to take a flat head screwdriver and pull the top 6 out of the rail that stayed in, when i pulled out each injector. (I didn't figure this out until I tried re-installing them.) And the best way to finish the job is to not remove any fuel lines, but rather tie the fuel rail up and out of the way; i tied a rope from the rail to my hood latch on the bottom of the hood; which you can see in my third picture down on the first page. I call it the fuel rail trick.