I decided to get those new mounts installed over the long weekend. It'* a surprisingly easy job looking back on it. Tools needed are jack stands, jack, 18mm socket, 18mm wrench, and a 13/16th socket.
I started with the Rear Transmission mount (LF fender). After fighting with it for a little bit, it dawned on me that the Left Engine mount (front of engine bay) has to come out to allow the mounts at the fenders to come out. I jacked the engine up a touch using my floor jack and a length of wood to distribute weight. Once the Left Engine mount was out, it was smooooth sailing!
Here'* the new mount
Old and new, exactly the same, only one looks newer
This shows where the mount goes. Two studs hanging down from the top, the stud on the bottom of the mount goes through the hole in the transmission mount bracket. If you look at the top of the pic you'll see part of a hole that a bolt goes through.
Here'* the finished install, nice and pretty. You'll see that bolt I was talking about at the top of the assembly. That has an 18mm nut on the back end with just enough room to get a wrench in there. I'd recommend a ratcheting wrench if you have one, just to make it a little easier. I did have to make some slight bends in the brake line there to get the bolt out, FYI.
Next I moved to the Front Engine mount (RF fender). Even with the Left Engine mount out, this guy took a little finagling. The mount has been redesigned a little, I called up 5 or so dealerships just to confirm the numbers and that'* the correct guy.
Here'* the old one in place, that nut on the bottom is a 13/16th, everything else is an 18mm.
This one comes out just like the other side, except it takes more manuevering to get the old part out. The engine mount bracket lowers to the point where it will rest on part of the frame, but it'* not quite low enough to allow the part to come out easily.
Here'* the old and the new side by side.....notice how they look a tad bit different.
Putting the new one in was a much smoother process than getting the old one out. The lack of whatever that thing is helps and I believe the stud on the bottom of the mount is a little shorter.
Once that was wrapped up and done I replaced my custom solid mount with a new OEM mount. I'm hoping this is just temporary while I troubleshoot a vibration problem. I did notice that the new mount is taller than my old one. The new OEM one is a 1/2" taller than mine.
So I've got 3 out of the 4 mounts replaced. The last one is the Right Transmission mount (frame below firewall). I crawled under the car and it didn't look to be that easy to get at. I'm sure a driveway mechanic like myself could do it, but not with the heat we've been having here lately. I'll probably farm this out to a shop and have them take care of it. Here'* a pick of it though:
For some step by steps -
Rear Transmission and Front Engine are identical; Left Engine is well documented (search for Solid mount)
raise and support vehicle using jack stands.
Remove the appropriate wheel
slightly raise and support the engine.
remove the Left Engine mount (front of engine bay)
Remove the wheel well splash shield (flathead screwdriver worked for me)
Use a 13/16th socket (or wrench) to remove the nut that is on the bottom of the Rear Transmission/Front Engine mount
Oh-so-gently lower the engine until the stud is clear or very close to it
Remove the two nuts from the top of the mount with an 18mm socket/wrench
In the engine compartment, locate and remove the 18mm nut for the center bolt (it may be necessary to reshape the brake lines slightly to remove the bolt)
At this point the mount can be removed.
Install the new mount. Installation is the opposite of removal.
Properly torque all nuts
Put the wheel back on the car.
If desired, replace the opposite side using the same procedure.
Reinstall the Left Engine mount and torque to specs.