I am in Delaware

Its the rear valve cover gasket i am pretty sure.

the other problem is under harder then average accerlation (not pedal to the floor) the whole dash board shakes bad, so bad I can see it move not just hear it. it shakes the whole car prety bad. But under conservative acceleration and cruising at 65-80 its as smooth as can be. thnks

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...263&highlight=

Please post some wording if you think his problem is like yours. From the first part of the thread..it appears his problem is different.

I can tell you what is wrong with your seat maybe. More than likely one of the three elements in the seat has gone bad( little over a hundred bucks if you can do it your self, my dealer quoted me just under five hundred w/ labor). Is a stuffed cat that common? sure seems to be a common first diagnosis. If I were you, first get the car scanned, that would be the most helpfull for everyone here. Being at 93,000mi you're only 7,000mi from GMs' recomended tune up, I'd just do it now if possible(your dealer wouldn't do any more than what is absolutly necessary, their objective is to get the most $$$ out of you). Also check your tranny fluid w/ the car running (color, odor and level would be helpfull info as well)

thnks guys for the help.

what would cause the shaking of the car under hard acceleration? I have read to check the cat, fuel pump etc. Would these cause the shaking of the dash? \

The is at the dealership for a couple of days so when I get it back I will do the scan.

thnks

heres the update

i got the car scanned today and nothing

i drove the car kinda hard today and this time when the ckeck engine light came on it stayed on. and its now studdering under light acceleration as well, not all the time just some and it seems like it may have a miss in it. my friend told me to replace the coil packs, plugs, wires, and the thing the coil packs plug into cant think of the name. Would this be a good place to start or should I start with the cat or fuel system? thnks again

I think a good place to start would be to find the actual problem rather than buying rather expensive parts and throwing them at the car.

If the light is still on, take it back for another scan. TM is not causing the problem. It doesn't throw a light.

I would bet misfires are the primary suspect at this point, so if you don't know how old the plugs and wires are, replace them. CHECK the coil packs using the procedure in Techinfo.

Try these things and we'll take it from there.

Had the car for 2 days and your're talking about fixing it? Take her back, politely explain your problems and let them take care of them. Why should you have to pay 1 cent at this point in time?

Checked them motor mounts?

Yup. Same as my dad. Had his durango for a week and the back brake caliper locked up. He chewed out the dealer and they replaced it at no cost. Back on topic - You should take it back to the dealer, explain the situation and they should fix it. There is usually a 10 day grace period.

well these guys are garbage, they lied to me told me they were waiting on parts for the rear regulator and then when I signed for the car they told me they had too much money into it. a bunch of other dishonest stuff too, but I'm not gonna frustrate myself and just take care of the problems myself, with some help from the forum. thnks

i got the car scanned today and it says #6 misfire. I ordered a valve cover gasket for the rear one and bought 6 plugs, the wires look pretty new so I waited on them. The valve cover gasket cost 64 and the plugs 30. I have changed a front valve cover gasket and it was pretty simple. THe rear looks a bit complicated. Any tips and hints would be greatly appreciated. thnks again