MAF Sensor specs?
01-03-2007, 10:33 AM
#11
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Doesn't the FSM have general good ranges for sensors? I know the 97 is impossible to use...but maybe your 2000 FSM has it?
Off Topic: For a minute there...I thought you were tossing that old small TB off there and getting a proper sized one.
Off Topic: For a minute there...I thought you were tossing that old small TB off there and getting a proper sized one.
01-03-2007, 10:40 AM
#12
RIP
True Car Nut
I don't know if this will help you or not - from AllData.
MAF Sensor
The scan tool range is 0.0-512 gm/* . Mass Air Flow (MAF) is the MAF input frequency converted to grams of air per second. This indicates the amount of air entering the engine.
MAF Input Frequency
The scan tool range is 0 to 32000 Hz . The mass air flow sensor input signal to the PCM is a frequency which varies from around 3000 Hz at idle to above 7000 Hz at wide-open throttle. The PCM converts this frequency signal to grams per second to be displayed on the scan tool as MAF. (It adds in another section that it could vary at idle from 1200 - 3000 Hz, depending on altitude.)
The scan tool displays the MAF value in grams per second (gm/*). At idle, MAF should be between 4 gm/* - 7 gm/* on a fully warmed-up engine. The values should change rather quickly on acceleration, but remain fairly stable at any given RPM. A MAF sensor malfunction or a MAF signal circuit problem should set DTC P0101, DTC P0102, or DTC P0103.
MAF Sensor
The scan tool range is 0.0-512 gm/* . Mass Air Flow (MAF) is the MAF input frequency converted to grams of air per second. This indicates the amount of air entering the engine.
MAF Input Frequency
The scan tool range is 0 to 32000 Hz . The mass air flow sensor input signal to the PCM is a frequency which varies from around 3000 Hz at idle to above 7000 Hz at wide-open throttle. The PCM converts this frequency signal to grams per second to be displayed on the scan tool as MAF. (It adds in another section that it could vary at idle from 1200 - 3000 Hz, depending on altitude.)
The scan tool displays the MAF value in grams per second (gm/*). At idle, MAF should be between 4 gm/* - 7 gm/* on a fully warmed-up engine. The values should change rather quickly on acceleration, but remain fairly stable at any given RPM. A MAF sensor malfunction or a MAF signal circuit problem should set DTC P0101, DTC P0102, or DTC P0103.
01-03-2007, 10:30 PM
#14
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 0
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the info guys.
It will help with my tuning of the water injection system.
Yes you are off topic. 
It will help with my tuning of the water injection system.
Off Topic: For a minute there...I thought you were tossing that old small TB off there and getting a proper sized one.
01-04-2007, 10:34 PM
#15
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 0
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I thought I would pass this info along for general knowledge.
I know Bill probably already knows this with his injection experience but I didn't and this response from my Boost Cooler injection Technician will help me stay ahead of the pack.
Last race season I was using a combination of race fuel and water injection that was probably hurting me. :?
I know Bill probably already knows this with his injection experience but I didn't and this response from my Boost Cooler injection Technician will help me stay ahead of the pack.
Last race season I was using a combination of race fuel and water injection that was probably hurting me. :?
In your first email you mentioned having a frequency range of 2-10 khz. If I’m reading your graph correctly it looks as if you’re maxing out at about 7.5 khz. With the controller set to start injecting at 1.5 v and using switch 3 you wouldn’t have activation until 5 khz (more than half way through your power curve) and you wouldn’t ever reach 100% injection because at a setting of 5.5 v you would need a MAF output of 18 khz which is obviously way outside your frequency range.
I am actually in the process of updating all our instruction manuals and I am going to change the sentence that mentions which switch to use. I apologize for the inaccurate information in the instructions. For the best response we normally recommend using the default setting of all switches off.
Keep in mind that the gain in horsepower we claim is usually based on an application that is running boosted on pump gas. Pump gas has its limits in regards to detonation control thereby limiting how much boost and timing can be utilized. By using water/methanol with pump gas the user will see very sizeable gains because the detonation threshold has been greatly increased. If you’re using 100 octane you’re already receiving enough detonation control and almost wouldn’t need water/methanol as a knock suppressant. Because of the increase in effective octane you get using water/methanol, you may actually be slowing down your flame front propagation to a point that it actually prevents complete combustion. Essentially, you’re reaching a point of limited returns. With 100 octane and water/methanol the biggest benefit you’re recognizing is IAT reduction.
If you want to “see” bigger gains run the car with a pump gas tune and then run your most aggressive tune while still using pump gas but with water/methanol. You should see significant increases. The idea behind water/methanol is that it gives you the ability to run an aggressive tune without having to use race gas. If you’re using race gas you’re in a way defeating the purposing of using water/methanol.
I am actually in the process of updating all our instruction manuals and I am going to change the sentence that mentions which switch to use. I apologize for the inaccurate information in the instructions. For the best response we normally recommend using the default setting of all switches off.
Keep in mind that the gain in horsepower we claim is usually based on an application that is running boosted on pump gas. Pump gas has its limits in regards to detonation control thereby limiting how much boost and timing can be utilized. By using water/methanol with pump gas the user will see very sizeable gains because the detonation threshold has been greatly increased. If you’re using 100 octane you’re already receiving enough detonation control and almost wouldn’t need water/methanol as a knock suppressant. Because of the increase in effective octane you get using water/methanol, you may actually be slowing down your flame front propagation to a point that it actually prevents complete combustion. Essentially, you’re reaching a point of limited returns. With 100 octane and water/methanol the biggest benefit you’re recognizing is IAT reduction.
If you want to “see” bigger gains run the car with a pump gas tune and then run your most aggressive tune while still using pump gas but with water/methanol. You should see significant increases. The idea behind water/methanol is that it gives you the ability to run an aggressive tune without having to use race gas. If you’re using race gas you’re in a way defeating the purposing of using water/methanol.
01-05-2007, 12:20 AM
#16
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Holt, MI & Lima, OH
Posts: 3,022
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 2000SilverBullet
Last race season I was using a combination of race fuel and water injection that was probably hurting me. :?
The water/alky/methanol whatever you wanna call it injecton seems to give ok gains in a mild tune pump gas setup, but in an all out setup most don't see much of a gain at all for the reasons quoted above. This is why people post about these sweet KR reductions and how they can drop pulleys and whatnot with the injection, yet don't run any quicker than the other guy with the same setup minus the injection at the strip and don't pull better numbers on the dyno either.
01-05-2007, 08:52 PM
#17
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 0
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is why people post about these sweet KR reductions and how they can drop pulleys and whatnot with the injection, yet don't run any quicker than the other guy with the same setup minus the injection at the strip
01-05-2007, 08:56 PM
#18
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Originally Posted by 2000SilverBullet
This is why people post about these sweet KR reductions and how they can drop pulleys and whatnot with the injection, yet don't run any quicker than the other guy with the same setup minus the injection at the strip
But now we're wandering off-topic again.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post