Heater inlet hose
#1
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Heater inlet hose
Hello to all....great forum....1st post.
I am flushing the radiator this weekend and I have always used the Prestone Back Flush kit which requires you to insert the necessary one way valve into the heater inlet hose. Which hose is the inlet hose on a 2002 Bonneville? Is it the one coming from the top of the tensioner housing, or the bottom?
I am flushing the radiator this weekend and I have always used the Prestone Back Flush kit which requires you to insert the necessary one way valve into the heater inlet hose. Which hose is the inlet hose on a 2002 Bonneville? Is it the one coming from the top of the tensioner housing, or the bottom?
#2
You can actually flush the system without that kit.
Do the following on a cold engine:
1.) Drain the coolant into a suitable container using the pet **** on the driver'* side bottom of the radiator.
2.) Leave the pet **** closed
3.) Fill the radiator with regular water from the garden hose.
4.) Start the car. Let the water circulate.
5.) Open the petcock. See the coolant/water combo.
6.) Repeat that process a couple times until you get nothing but clear water out of the petcock.
If you feel inclined to do so, you can put water through either of the heater core lines that come into the engine bay. Just don't use pressure. Regular water pressure will suffice. You can also back flush the water pump by removing the lower radiator hose. And, if you want to backflush the LIM, remove the thermostat and run water through the LIM.
This is how I do it. Doing all of this makes me feel confident that it'* been done as well as can be. AND, I saved a few bucks on the cheesy Prestone flush kit. Little messier, but worth it, in my opinion.
Oh ya, don't refill it with Dexcool. Use the Prestone "mix with any color" coolant.
Do the following on a cold engine:
1.) Drain the coolant into a suitable container using the pet **** on the driver'* side bottom of the radiator.
2.) Leave the pet **** closed
3.) Fill the radiator with regular water from the garden hose.
4.) Start the car. Let the water circulate.
5.) Open the petcock. See the coolant/water combo.
6.) Repeat that process a couple times until you get nothing but clear water out of the petcock.
If you feel inclined to do so, you can put water through either of the heater core lines that come into the engine bay. Just don't use pressure. Regular water pressure will suffice. You can also back flush the water pump by removing the lower radiator hose. And, if you want to backflush the LIM, remove the thermostat and run water through the LIM.
This is how I do it. Doing all of this makes me feel confident that it'* been done as well as can be. AND, I saved a few bucks on the cheesy Prestone flush kit. Little messier, but worth it, in my opinion.
Oh ya, don't refill it with Dexcool. Use the Prestone "mix with any color" coolant.
#3
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Thanks for the reply. I read all the stories about the dexcool stuff. I just got prestone extended life stuff, plus a thermostat, upper and lower hoses....I just bought the car and I always feel the need to do a complete service just for piece of mind. I am also draining the trans and replacing the fluid with Amsoil synthetic ATF (and new filter). On that note, I need to remove the trans cooler hose from the radiator to make sure I pump out all the old fluid, which hose is the return and which is the pressure line?
I even went so far as to get both upper and lower intake manifold gaskets and new coolant bypass elbows. I decided to wait and see if the UIM needs replacing. I have no leaks, but I can see the orignal gasket sticking out and it looks plastic and the elbows have rtv all around them. Suspicious that is has been changed before. I called the dealership and had them run the VIN and they reported back that warranty work had been done but didn't specify what.
I even went so far as to get both upper and lower intake manifold gaskets and new coolant bypass elbows. I decided to wait and see if the UIM needs replacing. I have no leaks, but I can see the orignal gasket sticking out and it looks plastic and the elbows have rtv all around them. Suspicious that is has been changed before. I called the dealership and had them run the VIN and they reported back that warranty work had been done but didn't specify what.
#4
Start a new thread for your transmission fluid change.
I wouldn't delay with replacing your gaskets. If you're already going to be flushing the coolant anyway, now'* the perfect. Sounds like you are like me. Like to have everything freshened up for piece of mind. To that end, don't delay in replacing those LIM gaskets, coolant by-pass elbows, UIM and UIM gasket.
Get the aluminum frame LIM gaskets. They can be had for about $55 from your local dealer or www.intense-racing.com. Don't settle for the plastic-rubber composite LIM gaskets.
When you do the job, flush your coolant first. Don't let the existing dexcool get near the new gaskets.
I wouldn't delay with replacing your gaskets. If you're already going to be flushing the coolant anyway, now'* the perfect. Sounds like you are like me. Like to have everything freshened up for piece of mind. To that end, don't delay in replacing those LIM gaskets, coolant by-pass elbows, UIM and UIM gasket.
Get the aluminum frame LIM gaskets. They can be had for about $55 from your local dealer or www.intense-racing.com. Don't settle for the plastic-rubber composite LIM gaskets.
When you do the job, flush your coolant first. Don't let the existing dexcool get near the new gaskets.
#5
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I got the aluminum gaskets as per your suggestions.
Back to original question: Which hose is the inlet hose?
I will start a new thread on the transmission, thanks for the suggestion.
Back to original question: Which hose is the inlet hose?
I will start a new thread on the transmission, thanks for the suggestion.
#6
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