Prospective Owner
#1
Prospective Owner
I checked out a '00 ssei with ~40k miles the other day. There were a few problems.
-SES light with a P0446 (EVAP) code
-Intermediate steering shaft clunk felt through the wheel (owner claimed they never noticed the problem) also felt "activity" in the steering wheel under hard braking (related?) It wasn't warped rotors-it came about due to the extra load put on the front end
-Poping in the steering at full left lock (right front strut bearing perhaps?)
-Drivers door was hitting the door frame in a place it shoudn't have, it was the bump on the inside of the door near the character line (chrome strip). there were small rust spots where contact was being made
-Another odd tidbit: owner said the car always has a small amout of fuel in it, around 1/4 tank and below...a bit suspicious
Other than that, it was perfect.
The owner claimed that there have been no problems with the car including leaks, windows, etc.
I'm telling you guys all of this because I'm struggling to come to a conclusion. I don't know if I'm about to enter a world of hurt by taking on a car with these problems, and possible problems that could arise vs. a car with small problems that can be fixed with grease, a few lines & a canister, and a door tweak that could easily become a quality piece. As for the asking price, it'* at kbb "good" valuation and the owner claiming "no problems."
If I were to offer, would a price about 10-20% lower than the asking price be acceptable after pointing out the problems I've outlined?
Thanks!
-SES light with a P0446 (EVAP) code
-Intermediate steering shaft clunk felt through the wheel (owner claimed they never noticed the problem) also felt "activity" in the steering wheel under hard braking (related?) It wasn't warped rotors-it came about due to the extra load put on the front end
-Poping in the steering at full left lock (right front strut bearing perhaps?)
-Drivers door was hitting the door frame in a place it shoudn't have, it was the bump on the inside of the door near the character line (chrome strip). there were small rust spots where contact was being made
-Another odd tidbit: owner said the car always has a small amout of fuel in it, around 1/4 tank and below...a bit suspicious
Other than that, it was perfect.
The owner claimed that there have been no problems with the car including leaks, windows, etc.
I'm telling you guys all of this because I'm struggling to come to a conclusion. I don't know if I'm about to enter a world of hurt by taking on a car with these problems, and possible problems that could arise vs. a car with small problems that can be fixed with grease, a few lines & a canister, and a door tweak that could easily become a quality piece. As for the asking price, it'* at kbb "good" valuation and the owner claiming "no problems."
If I were to offer, would a price about 10-20% lower than the asking price be acceptable after pointing out the problems I've outlined?
Thanks!
#3
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Mmmm here'* my take on the problems you list.
The evap code could be two things, vacuum leak or overfilling of the tank
The 1/4 tank issue, seems like a fuel sender...common on this year to go bad. Really only affects the fuel gauge.
Intermediate shaft is typical, most here have had one go bad.
Strut bearing...could be..check the cv boots and wheel bearings as well.
Overall...if the price is right...I'd hop on it. The body work makes me leary though.
The evap code could be two things, vacuum leak or overfilling of the tank
The 1/4 tank issue, seems like a fuel sender...common on this year to go bad. Really only affects the fuel gauge.
Intermediate shaft is typical, most here have had one go bad.
Strut bearing...could be..check the cv boots and wheel bearings as well.
Overall...if the price is right...I'd hop on it. The body work makes me leary though.
#4
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I bought that car new. 2000 SSEi. I still have it, and it is costing me. Huge mistake. It'* had nearly every problem in the "Common Problems" thread...and invnted a few of it'* own To boot, GM couldn't care any less. I just replaced the engine at 66,000 miles. Luckily, this is uncommon. Just make sure you trust the guy who replaces your intake manifold *when* it goes -- if you buy it.
It is possible that you could get lucky and get one of the few "good ones." But if I were you I wouldn't take the risk. It looks to already have a small laundry list of it'* own. I just wish that I had someone to tell me this before I dropped $34,000 on the car.
I don't want to upset anyone, after all this is an enthusiast board...but I'm being honest when I tell you: Run. Run away as fast as you can.
If you abosutely MUST buy one of these cars, at least get one with a certified preowned warranty. Stick the problems right back in GM'* face.
It is possible that you could get lucky and get one of the few "good ones." But if I were you I wouldn't take the risk. It looks to already have a small laundry list of it'* own. I just wish that I had someone to tell me this before I dropped $34,000 on the car.
I don't want to upset anyone, after all this is an enthusiast board...but I'm being honest when I tell you: Run. Run away as fast as you can.
If you abosutely MUST buy one of these cars, at least get one with a certified preowned warranty. Stick the problems right back in GM'* face.
#5
RIP
True Car Nut
Originally Posted by bonvil
I don't want to upset anyone, after all this is an enthusiast board...but I'm being honest when I tell you: Run. Run away as fast as you can..
My opinion on this car is that I'd agree with Boosty, that my main concern would be with the body, and how the door got to be in the shape it is. The other problems are minor, and pretty much well documented for fixes.
#6
Thanks for the info so far, both positive and negative.
I don't think I described the door problem clearly. The door itself is physically fine. It just seems to be out of alignment and coming into contact with the B-pillar for no reason.
Here is an expert artists rendering of the situation:
About the fuel gauge, he says he never physicaly puts in more than 1/4 tank. The owner said something to the effect that "If car is stolen, it won't get far." I think they have about a 5-10mi total daily commute.
Thanks again!
I don't think I described the door problem clearly. The door itself is physically fine. It just seems to be out of alignment and coming into contact with the B-pillar for no reason.
Here is an expert artists rendering of the situation:
About the fuel gauge, he says he never physicaly puts in more than 1/4 tank. The owner said something to the effect that "If car is stolen, it won't get far." I think they have about a 5-10mi total daily commute.
Thanks again!
#7
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Originally Posted by racinfan
About the fuel gauge, he says he never physicaly puts in more than 1/4 tank. The owner said something to the effect that "If car is stolen, it won't get far." I think they have about a 5-10mi total daily commute.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
#8
RIP
True Car Nut
Obviously, the man has never heard of drive-offs from the gas stations.
Did he mention any other "pearls of wisdom"? I don't know what your climate is like, but in colder areas, I'd wonder about condensation, and in warmer, about the fuel pump. The gas helps to cool it.
Did he mention any other "pearls of wisdom"? I don't know what your climate is like, but in colder areas, I'd wonder about condensation, and in warmer, about the fuel pump. The gas helps to cool it.
#9
Originally Posted by Archon
Obviously, the man has never heard of drive-offs from the gas stations.
Did he mention any other "pearls of wisdom"? I don't know what your climate is like, but in colder areas, I'd wonder about condensation, and in warmer, about the fuel pump. The gas helps to cool it.
Did he mention any other "pearls of wisdom"? I don't know what your climate is like, but in colder areas, I'd wonder about condensation, and in warmer, about the fuel pump. The gas helps to cool it.
I'm just concerned because I've read about people having trouble filling their gas tanks, the "gas cap" messages, and the evap code that is being thrown.
There was something about keeping a "boost guage" under 0, I didn't really pay attention because i was watching the guage peg past 10.
#10
RIP
True Car Nut
The gas cap problem is ofte fixed with getting a new cap, or just cleaning the top of the filler tube. Evap issues have been either bad lines, or more often, the vent (I think that was the one) solenoid. If you're interested in the car, make the offer under the condition that the evap problem is repaired before you buy it.