Hello all, this post is continued from my intro, ‘Owning a Bonneville is a disease, called Bonnyitis'.
Got a Dexcool leak at the warped UIM to TB:
Researched the L-O-N-G story and came up with this:
Name Old# New# Difference Year Revised
Upper intake manifold 17113136 same? Rochester to Delphi 2000?
Upper intake manifold 17113136 89017272 More heat resistant? 2004?
Upper intake gasket 17113137 89017554(kit) TB coolant passage 2003
gaskets red to black
Lower intake manifold 24502743 24508923 [3/4" to 5/8" EGR pipe,
Lower intake manifold 24502745 24508923 EGR pipe material changed]
Lower intake manifold 24505728 24508923 1999
Lower intake gasket 12537197 89017816 [better sealing ribs, aluminum frame,
Lower intake gasket 12480830 89017816 improved formulation, light green air
Lower intake gasket 89017399 89017816 passage sealing surfaces, black coolant
Lower intake gasket 89017400 89017816 sealing surfaces] 2004
I was compulsive to brush and vacuum debris at every step, and had plastic bags stuffed in all the intakes as I cleaned the gasket surfaces. Of course the upper heater core coolant bypass elbow snapped and left a piece in the LIM. So I poked at it with a small screwdriver and the piece popped out...INTO the LIM! Shook it around like mad but it would not come out of any opening. F*** it, it'* just for the heater core, I thought. (OK, stop laughing.) Note to self: when pulling that piece in the future, USE A TAP! Got it buttoned up, started great, lots of heat from the heater so flow'* got to be OK right? Took it for a test drive. Did I mention I changed the oil? No I didn't. I mean I DIDN'T CHANGE THE OIL. (OK, stop laughing.) Floored it going up the hill into town and after ONE MINUTE, started losing power and got ROD KNOCK! Temp read 200, never more. Oil pressure of course was pegged to max from the famous GM quality sensor, but later I replaced the sensor and it idled at 40 PSI (Haynes says should be 60 on 1999'* and later). Not bad.
Pulled the oil pan (don't forget about removing the oil level sensor, Dah!). Then pulled a rod cap and found a spun rod bearing. The babbit linings are completely gone.
The crank journal is pretty rough too.
Pulled another random rod cap and the babbit is all spotty.
My old UIM was brittle but didn't seem to leak INTO the engine, just an exterior leak as far as I can tell. Of course the overflow tank had to be topped off once in a while, but I don't know if any went in the engine. I suppose a bit of Dexcool may have gone in, since the LIM gasket was in bad shape. But when I drained the oil, no Dexcool drops could be detected at the bottom of the drain pan.
Made up a EGR pipe sleeve with stainless steel sheet metal and JB welded it.
1. What happened to spin my bearing? Loose bypass elbow piece, dirt in the oil, coolant in the oil that evaporated and I can't detect anymore that caused the oil to become acidic?
2. How do you evaluate a junkyard engine that'* been pulled? The guy says it'* got low miles, runs great, trrrrust me. How do you prove that? Do you like, pull the plugs, spin the crankshaft, do a compression test right in front of them? Is it even possible to do a compression test by hand? Do you even pull the oil pan and rod caps? Are there any numbers on the engine you can check with Carfax or another service? 90 day warranty my A$$, cuz I have to pay $150 shipping each way (300 miles) to the city (Edmonton) and spend 12 hours swapping it. (Never did an engine swap before)
3. Anyone know of a deal on an L36 in Alberta?
4. Is it a PITA to import an engine from USA to Canada? (MUCH better deals found in USA!)
5. Which direction does the coolant flow through that upper coolant bypass elbow?
6. Would blocking flow to the heater core screw up the cooling in the engine block?
7. Can I reuse my (almost new) LIM and UIM gaskets that were installed in the dead engine? (The LIM gasket is the aluminum version #89017816.)