You would probably be fine for normal driving but at high rpm you will get belt slippage. (check for black shavings on your sc snout or on the coolant recovery tank) which can cause eratic levels of boost and the inability to sustain constant power (especially above 100 mph where more hp is needed to accelerate).

Enjoy the 3.4, next get some type of Cold air to your engine. also 180 stat is cheep and easy. Colder the engine runs the better.

Rogue is right though, get the new smaller belt, you could be fine with out it but 20 bucks or whatever for the belt cost is worth it in my book.

Colder doesn't mean better at all. It just means less knock. Engines are designed to run within a certian range, so all of the different metals heat up right. Even 15 degrees can mess that up and change wear patterns.

Yes I agree but a 180 stat and cold air are NOT going to hurt anything, I was making a general statement, that colder is better, only to a point I agree.

Thanks for the advice. I've just installed a 180 stat, put in a K &N flat filter (for now)and ducted some cold air into the factory airbox.
I am planning on using a EGR block off plate and a TB isolator plate to keep coolant off of the TB. On inspecting the intake , itwas really oilly and sooty from the EGR. The tb was pretty dirty also. These changes though minor should help intake air quality. INPUT ?

I will follow up with the 3.4 and a new belt, and one heat range colder plug.

Now about the 1.9 rockers... questions.! Who has the most miles driven on them? Any issues to date? I see some change to heavier springs and some change pushrods.
The deal is that this is the wife'* daily driver and longevity is a big issue. I am after street performance...not necessarily interested in just drag racing launch etc. From what I read pulley and rockers should be the most dramatic, easiest changes. I am assuming the rockers are non adjustable and easily installed (ignoring on how hard to reach the back head). Thanks for your input

The 1.9'* have been around for a while in one fashion or another. I have the first set of INTENSE 3rd gens and they have about 3K Miles on them with no issues. I did run into problems with the new pcm and higher shift points. I am getting valve float above 5800 rpm but hope to have that resolved on thursday with 105 springs and OR pushrods.

How much will a EGR block-off plate help? I realize it means cleaner TB and air into the SC, but power-wise is it worth it?
I am working on opening up the front of my stock air-box to enclose my K&N cone which right now is shielded only by the rear portion of the stock airbox.
Hope to get the crossover pipe wrapped finally early next week. Then I have to figure out why at take-off I have no torque (no tire squeaking even), but once I hit 25-30 the torque (and tires) really come to life.

3" DP, high-flow cat, and o2 spoof are to be installed over the next 1-2 months. From what I hear from all the GP guys this really livens up the car. My only concern is that it'* still a Bonneville and so I am not too enthusiatic about the noise polution inside the ****-pit. :? I guess, there'* a price for everything.

I personally would love to do the Intense 3rd Gen 1.9 rockers, but I don't forsee myself with $500 to spare in the next 6 months unless this damn job market opens up something for me. Otherwise it'* off to college and bye-bye SSEi.

Don't do the EGR blockoff. It'* only really necessary for Intercooled cars. You're just going to raise combustion temps significantly on the car.

Can't squak the tires? Damn... Mine are very easy now! Your tranny acting up again, or what?

Yeah, from a stop if I put it all the way down it sorta bogs (am beginning to wonder about the 150k fuel pump), but once I get up to about 25-30 she really comes on and lights em up through the rest of 1st and a touch in 2nd (very reminiscent of a turbo going from vacuum to boost, but the change is more gradual).

I suppose the Michelin Pilot 225/60ZR16'* have a little more stick to em then the old Bridgestone Insignias, but they definitely aren't the reason for it.

I had the car scanned for codes and it was code free. I suppose an autotap is probably what I should do to check for KR at the takeoff and to check the fuel readings (o2, TPS, injector pulse rates, etc...)

I'll be selling mine at the end of the month. Getting the 1.6 adjustables and the 1x cam