Hi all,

Sorry to start a new thread if this is already here somewhere, I searched the best I could to find the match but didn't see anything.

Replaced the heater core last week...never had a car this far apart in my life. Although intimidating to look at wasn't too bad of a job and I'll be posting some short cuts here once i get this figured out.

I ended up pulling verything out of the car, console, upper/lower IP, dropped the column and pulled the die-cast IP support out too. Probably didn't have to go this far, but any of the manuals I could get my hands on weren't alot of help. Meticulously labeled all screws and electrical connections and have no left over parts (amazing!). As I said, not too bad of a job as all connections were unique and only go together with their mates, with the exception of a few underdash lights. Pulled the negative battery cable-off so as not to blow my head off with the air bag.

Car ran fine before starting all this (leaking heater core=sauna inside car), but now that it'* back together, there'* nothing when I go to crank it over. Dash lights-up fine, headlights come on, radio etc., just nothing when I turn to crank mode.

Billboost and Danthurs mentioned bad battery connections, so I retightened/wiggled the neg-battery cable to make better a connection, still no crank. Was wondering if I tripped some sort of security lock-out feature, or maybe something with the VAT system or ?

I was really careful not to yank, tear-out, or tug ecessively on anything when doing this and am a little confused at this...car was always good to start. Humidity levels never got excessive before I did the core replacement as I did the change a few days after realizing it was bad.

Any help here would be appreciated...will post core short cuts as soon as I get this sorted-out.

Thanks in advance...cheers!

Only thing I can think of to do is, go inside, have some of your favorite beverage, clear your head, and go back out and make sure you didn't miss something on all your electrical connections.

When you turn the key to on, what'* the seurity light doing? You might need a security relearn procedure.

I'd type it out, but need to run for a meeting. Look at Intense-racing.com under PCM and it'll have the procedure.

Thanks guys for your input,

I tried the PCM re-learn last night after checking the wring again and cleaning-up the battery connections (battery is less than a year old and the connections and cables were sparking clean). Gave the battery a good charge and did the PCM re-learn with the regular key...still no crank. The security light is on and solid (not flashing) after trying to crank and letting it fall back to the "on" position.

It acts somewhat like if you tried to start it while in gear, so I popped off the console cover again and tugged a bit on the cable that runs up to the ignition switch to see if this was the issue, but no change. Also tried starting in neutral but the sma result.

I didn't have anything apart under the hood other than the engine cover and the vacuum line over to the booster.

Any input on where to go from here would be highly appreciated...

I'd need an FSM to see the schematic and where any connectors or splices are located. Most likely it'* the main connection at the dash if you didn't pull anything else apart when pulling the dash. I'd check the ignition kick wire to the relay then the power from the relay down the soleniod wire to the starter.

Sorry..been doing some wiring lately and have the lingo in mind.

When you turn the key you have power to the lights? There is no click or nothing at the starter? Do the lights dim at all when you turn to start? You will need a helper, check for voltage at the starter when it'* turned to start. If no voltage there then check cables. Check everything you worked near, unplugged, or may have bumped.

Hey Bill,

I guess I'll have to get back in there and see if any of them didn't quite snap together all the way. The large/main connectors for the dash all have those fold-over toggles, so I don't suspect they're the culprits, but somethings got to be the problem in there.

Do you think the ignition circuit runs through that main connector? ...or does it have it'* own line down there? Can you tell me where that relay'* located off the top of your head?

Sorry to harass you Bill, but the alternative is the local GM dealership which is all about changing stuff at my expense...also tried to sign my wife up to a ton of stuff while there for an oil change (axle boots, all brakes which I had just done a month or so earlier). They also said something to her about not releasing her car back to her, as it was "unsafe" in their opinion...real bunch of thugs.

So, you can see why tried to avoid the dealer.

Thanks Again!

None of the lights (headlights or interior) dim when I try to crank it...I though of that too, thinking maybe the starter was drawing voltage.
Everything just seems normal...other than the no crank.

I'll check again tonight and let you know...much thanks!

Hey Dan!
...no clicking either from the starter, but, there'* a bit of clicking coming from the fuse box area opposite the battery (both under the back seat). I can't pin-point the exact location as i can't reach the ignition switch from the back seat.
Is that where the relay'* located? I'll have to recruit the wife tonight!
Thanks for your input!
Scott

Is the fuel pump priming? when you turn the car to ACC or ON you will hear the pump run for a few seconds and the relay clicking which might be what you hear from the rear fuse box