Entering the highway at woot last week the check engine light flashed 3 times. Nothing seemed out of wack at the time and the car ran fine at all speeds on that trip home. Now this week I am getting lots of misfires and it appears ther engine wants to stall when I'm driving around town. Happens on acceleration as well. Other times the car runs perfect and normal with no misfires or stalls at all. I've read several posts here so I'm going to replace the plugs (NGK TR-55G'*) and wires (AC Delco). I'm wondering if I should replace the coil pack as well since the car runs great one trip then crapy on the next. A local recker has a coil for $75. My miles today are about 68000.

Flashing check engine light is not a good thing. I am sure the Gearheads want to fine out what codes are being displayed on a code reader in order to help you out.

Correct, 95SLE, we would certainly like to know the codes before anyone goes off and spends a lot of money replacing parts in the hopes of fixing something.

Now, it can't hurt to replace the plugs and wires, especially if it hasn't been done yet on your car, but above and beyond that, I'd want to know what was going on before I started shotgunning the fix.

And yes also, the flashing CEL/SES is usually indicative of a condition that has the potential to damage the catalytic converter, O2 sensors, and potentially other things. So get that code read, even if the light isn't on now. The code(*) will still be stored in memory.

Flashing CE is a radnom/multiple misfire

The light has only flashed 3 times once since it happened last week and it has never stayed on or flashed again since. My mechanic says its a misfire code as well (as Pat stated) and sugested plugs and wires. I will finish that tomorrow then see what happens from there. I might try to get the code read tomorrow. I was just wondering if it was worth my while to replace the coil pack since I've done that on both my other bonnies in the past at least once over their 200,00 mile lives!

Brian, I'd suggest that you start with the plugs and wires, if you haven't ever replaced them. If you still have problems, we can work with the coils. But just replacing one will only give you a 33% chance of hitting the right one, if one is indeed bad.

When you swap them out, measure the resistance of each wire, and inspect it visually in case it was up against something. Inspect the plugs, also. Check the #6 wire in the back and make sure that it is away from the O2 sensor, and the #1 wire in front that it is away from the oil dipstick.

I'd be replacing the entire coil pack not just one individually with a new unit from a wreckers (off a L67 Grand Prix I think it was).

Thanks for the tips Dick. I'm hoping just the wires and plugs will do it! I've done the front 3 so far (all I've had time for so far) and the plugs looked pretty bad. The wires
and back 3 plugs I'm doing tomorrow on my ONLY day off for the rest of this month (besides xmas day which I don't want to spend doing car repairs!)

Ahhh...ok, so you're look at the entire assembly, the 3 coils and the ignition control module? Yeah, I'd wait on that. With your pulley, you may want to close up the gap just a touch. At the meet, Todd suggested the Autolite 605s with a gap of .057 as a start rather than the .060.

Use the procedure in Techinfo to find the best of the 6 coils if you buy another assembly from the wrecker.

Thanks everyone for your input and tips! Hope I can lick this problem without a lot of trouble!