I think you can ohm it to see if it matches the rest. But I'd aim for the connector being loose etc first.

I will look for the obvious before pulling injectors. Thanks.

Would it be worth while to run a top end cleaner or something like Sea Foam to see if fixes the problem?

Roy

I am 99% sure I have identified the problem.

After adding injector cleaner last weekend, the car ran all week without misfires. Last night it misfired on the way home from work, and fortunately the misfire did not go away when I got home. I say fortunately, because having the car misfire in my driveway gave me a chance to diagnose the problem. Based on input from Billboost37, I picked up a mechanics stethoscope (Ebay, less than $10) earlier this week and used it to listen to the injectors. On 5 of the 6 cylinders I could hear the "pulse" of the engine firing, as well as a mechanical clicking sound as the injector activated. On cyclinder #5, the engine pulse was slightly muted, and I could not hear the mechanical clicking noise. By the way, it is cylinder 5 I am getting the misfire on.

This morning, the car was misfiring, I pulled the electrical connection off injector #5 and the misfire did not change at all. I used a multimeter to check and got 12 volts (approximately) across the terminals of the electrical connector to injector #5. I also pulled the electrical connector off injector #3 and got the same 12 volts.

The conclusion is the misfire is due to injector #5 not functioning, and by getting normal voltage at the electrical connector to injector #5, it has to be the injector itself that is acting up.

Haven't decided if I want to change it myself or not. I will call a garage near work on Monday that has decent shop rates to see what they would want to replace one injector. If they give me a good price I may let them do it.

I would never change one spark plug without changing all six. Is there any issue changing only one injector, or do you think it necessary to change all six?

As a side note, I changed the fuel level sending unit today, and after 3 years of not having a reliable gas gage it looks like it is working again. The writeups on this forum told me what the problem was, and how to fix it.

Roy

I undid the fuel rail and was able to get the #5 injector out by lifting the forward section, without removing the whole assembly. Went down to my local parts store (Windsor, Ontario), and they wanted $165 and didn't have one in stock. I will order one on-line from Rock Auto and have it delivered to my office in the states.

There are several listed. The one they show as OEM part is $76. I will talk to their order desk to see which one they recommend.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to which one I should get?

Installed new injector (Rock Auto) on cylinder #5 tonight. Took the car for a spin and no misfires. I will drive it for a couple of days, and post an update this weekend.

Good luck, hope the problem is fixed.

Dan,

The one small problem I encountered in doing this was I could not disengage the fuel lines on top of the intake manifold. I got around it by only lifting the front half of the fuel rail assembly to get at injector #5, but when I do my LIM I will have to get these apart.

Looking inside the cone shaped quick connect, I can see 4 spring tabs locked on a flange. I cut a piece of plastic from an emply jug, wrapped it around the metal fuel lline, and tried pushing it into the quick connect to release the tabs, but it didn't work.

How do you release those two quick connects?

5 days of running with no misfires. I think this one is fixed. Like Sawgunner experienced, the misfire was due to a bad fuel injector.

Danthurs, thanks for guiding me through this one. Bill Boost37, your suggestion on the stethoscope really helped to pinpoint the problem. Obnoxus, Sawgunner and 2Qickz'*, thanks for your input.

This forum rocks.

Roy