intermidiate shaft problem
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intermidiate shaft problem
i know for a fact that the shaft is my problem now i checked the struts and they aren't hanging up and i need to fix this before the trip to n.c. in dec. has anyone got a bit of instruction on how hard and what tools are needed for this job, also any experience advice would be highly appreciated.
cliff
cliff
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ok i gresed the universal joint and the shaft entrance into the steering box, and yet the bumping is still in the steering wheel when i stop. what am i missing or is this a replacement issue. if so where can i get this part and just how much is this going to be a pain to do? you know if this website didn't exist i'd be lost.
cliff
cliff
#3
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True Car Nut
The intermediate shaft is available online at gmpartsdirect. This is the part number - Intermediate Shaft
. 26100571
I've listed the steps on how to replace it. To add to it, make certain the wheels are pointed straight ahead. I didn't use their special tool to hold the steering column, and everything turned out ok. Pull back the clear boot that is attached to the steering gear. (Mine already was from previous work that was done on it. Apparently, the grease fix had been tried.) That will give you access to the pinch bolt on the bottom of the shaft. Remove that bolt. Inside the car, under the steering wheel, remove the hush panel. Looking up (you'll have to be about on your back for this) you should see a black boot that connects to another clear boot. When they had done the previous work on this, they had just sliced open the boots, and then taped them back together. You'll probably have to do something similar to this to get at the top bolt that runs through the shaft. Remove the nut and bolt from the shaft. The bolt has an arm on it that goes around the shaft to keep it from spinning.
Push down (toward the firewall) on the shaft so that it compresses. Now go back under the hood, and note which direction the shaft is attached to the steering gear, and you should now be able to lift the shaft off from the steering gear. It should now drop out.
Push the new shaft up through where you just removed the old one, and slide the bottom of the shaft back on the steering gear in the same direction as the old one was. Tighten the pinch bolt to the specs listed in the instructions posted after this. Go inside the car, and slide the top of the shaft into the steering column. This will take a little fiddling until everything lines up right. Be certain that the steering wheel is still centered. Put the bolt through the shaft, tighten, and tape up the boots. Slide the outside boot back down onto the steering gear. I think that I covered everything.
ntermediate Steering Shaft Replacement
Removal Procedure
* Tools Required * J42640 Steering Column Lock Pin
Notice: The wheels of the vehicle must be straight ahead and the steering column in the LOCK position before disconnecting the steering column or intermediate shaft from the steering gear. Failure to do so will cause the SIR coil assembly to become uncentered, which may cause damage to the coil assembly.
1. Insert the J42640 into the steering column access hole in order to lock the steering column. This will maintain correct orientation.
2. Remove the pinch bolt at the steering gear stub shaft.
3. Remove the left I/P sound insulator.
4. Reposition the intermediate shaft seal (dust seal) in order to gain access to the upper intermediate shaft pinch bolt (2).
5. Remove the pinch bolt (2).
6. Disconnect the intermediate shaft (1) from the steering column.
7. Remove the intermediate steering shaft (1).
Installation Procedure
1. Position the intermediate steering shaft (1). Insert the shaft fully into the pinch bolt pot joint on the steering column. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Bottom out the lower pinch pot joint on the steering gear. Tighten the pinch bolt (2) to 47 Nm (35 ft. lbs.).
3. Reposition the seal as needed.
4. Install the left I/P sound insulator.
5. Remove the J42640 from the steering column.
. 26100571
I've listed the steps on how to replace it. To add to it, make certain the wheels are pointed straight ahead. I didn't use their special tool to hold the steering column, and everything turned out ok. Pull back the clear boot that is attached to the steering gear. (Mine already was from previous work that was done on it. Apparently, the grease fix had been tried.) That will give you access to the pinch bolt on the bottom of the shaft. Remove that bolt. Inside the car, under the steering wheel, remove the hush panel. Looking up (you'll have to be about on your back for this) you should see a black boot that connects to another clear boot. When they had done the previous work on this, they had just sliced open the boots, and then taped them back together. You'll probably have to do something similar to this to get at the top bolt that runs through the shaft. Remove the nut and bolt from the shaft. The bolt has an arm on it that goes around the shaft to keep it from spinning.
Push down (toward the firewall) on the shaft so that it compresses. Now go back under the hood, and note which direction the shaft is attached to the steering gear, and you should now be able to lift the shaft off from the steering gear. It should now drop out.
Push the new shaft up through where you just removed the old one, and slide the bottom of the shaft back on the steering gear in the same direction as the old one was. Tighten the pinch bolt to the specs listed in the instructions posted after this. Go inside the car, and slide the top of the shaft into the steering column. This will take a little fiddling until everything lines up right. Be certain that the steering wheel is still centered. Put the bolt through the shaft, tighten, and tape up the boots. Slide the outside boot back down onto the steering gear. I think that I covered everything.
ntermediate Steering Shaft Replacement
Removal Procedure
* Tools Required * J42640 Steering Column Lock Pin
Notice: The wheels of the vehicle must be straight ahead and the steering column in the LOCK position before disconnecting the steering column or intermediate shaft from the steering gear. Failure to do so will cause the SIR coil assembly to become uncentered, which may cause damage to the coil assembly.
1. Insert the J42640 into the steering column access hole in order to lock the steering column. This will maintain correct orientation.
2. Remove the pinch bolt at the steering gear stub shaft.
3. Remove the left I/P sound insulator.
4. Reposition the intermediate shaft seal (dust seal) in order to gain access to the upper intermediate shaft pinch bolt (2).
5. Remove the pinch bolt (2).
6. Disconnect the intermediate shaft (1) from the steering column.
7. Remove the intermediate steering shaft (1).
Installation Procedure
1. Position the intermediate steering shaft (1). Insert the shaft fully into the pinch bolt pot joint on the steering column. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Bottom out the lower pinch pot joint on the steering gear. Tighten the pinch bolt (2) to 47 Nm (35 ft. lbs.).
3. Reposition the seal as needed.
4. Install the left I/P sound insulator.
5. Remove the J42640 from the steering column.
#4
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intermediate shaft problem
Keep in mind that the TSB for this issue has instructions for lubricating the shaft slip joint, using a white lithium grease. Make sure you work it in well, as this is where a lot of the noise comes from, and needs serviced occasionally. If you compress the shaft completely, in your hands, and then rotate the ends, you can feel the "grinding" like noise. The shaft is not compressed when fully installed, of course, but you'll get the idea about the noise from this.
It is possible to just push the boot down on the inside of the car to get at the bolt holding the column shaft to the intermediate shaft, I didn't really have a problem myself, as the bolt holds itself in place with the tab mounted on the head of the bolt. As long as the steering wheel is locked or you just don't move it during the job, you won't need any special tools. This is pretty obvious once you get at it.
The "hush" panel is pretty important, as it houses your temperature sensor, and this panel is actually a plenum, carrying air from the floor heater duct across the sensor, and to the door side of the floor for even heating/cooling. There may also be a courtesy light on the left side of this panel, which has a simple connector to remove. The temp sensor is a quarter turn insert on the right side of the panel.
Lock tite is used on the upper bolt, inside the cabin, also.
It is possible to just push the boot down on the inside of the car to get at the bolt holding the column shaft to the intermediate shaft, I didn't really have a problem myself, as the bolt holds itself in place with the tab mounted on the head of the bolt. As long as the steering wheel is locked or you just don't move it during the job, you won't need any special tools. This is pretty obvious once you get at it.
The "hush" panel is pretty important, as it houses your temperature sensor, and this panel is actually a plenum, carrying air from the floor heater duct across the sensor, and to the door side of the floor for even heating/cooling. There may also be a courtesy light on the left side of this panel, which has a simple connector to remove. The temp sensor is a quarter turn insert on the right side of the panel.
Lock tite is used on the upper bolt, inside the cabin, also.
#5
RIP
True Car Nut
Iif you are going to try the grease instead of replacemnt, check the top u-joint to be certain that is working smoothly. That'* where the problem appeared to be with mine.
#6
My problem was both the top U-joint and the slip shaft. I had never done this before, but getting it out, greasing it and reinstalling took a total of about an hour and 15 minutes. (this included 20 minutes spent finding the right XM Radio channel on the garage stereo - another story entirely)
I used RedLine CV-2 Synthetic High Impact grease. It is very thick and clings to the parts much better than the dealer'* silicone stuff. Once I was finished, my Bonny'* steering was good as new! I'd highly recommend doing this as opposed to buying the dealer'* questionable replacement. This only cost me about a teaspoon of grease and a couple aspirin (for my sore back after finishing)
I used RedLine CV-2 Synthetic High Impact grease. It is very thick and clings to the parts much better than the dealer'* silicone stuff. Once I was finished, my Bonny'* steering was good as new! I'd highly recommend doing this as opposed to buying the dealer'* questionable replacement. This only cost me about a teaspoon of grease and a couple aspirin (for my sore back after finishing)
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