changing pads - question
06-25-2006, 11:09 PM
#11
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is this what youre referring to?
If you have a scored rotor, you must decide whether to have it "turned" or to replace it. If you're short on money, take it to a local mechanic and ask him to "turn" it for you. What they do is put it on a special metal-cutting lathe and shave off several thousandths of an inch of metal until the disc is shiny again. Remember, though, one of the real advantages of disc brakes over drum is their heat-handling capability. By removing metal, you reduce the system'* thermal transfer capacity. We recommend turning the discs only when you are short on bucks. The better way is to take the disc to the auto parts store, match it up with a replacement, and buy a new one. Last time we did this, it only cost us twenty bucks for a new rotor, a cheap investment in safety. You have to go there anyway to buy the new brake pads, as well as a few other things, so why not make it one trip. In fact, here'* your shopping list:
new rotor, or rotors, if needed
new brake pads (bring the old ones, to match them)
brake pad grease (comes in little packets; they're cheap, so buy two)
new rotor, or rotors, if needed
new brake pads (bring the old ones, to match them)
brake pad grease (comes in little packets; they're cheap, so buy two)
06-26-2006, 04:12 AM
#13
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On my 2000 SSE, I had to turn the pistons, not just push them in. It looks like you can use a special tool to do it, but I just used channel locks. Has anyone else here changed their pads and only had to compress the pistons instead of turning them? Just seems odd that I'm the only one who'* posted that so far...
06-26-2006, 04:50 AM
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Originally Posted by MACDRIVE
This tool works well for compressing the caliper piston. It'* a Lisle 24400. 
before you take out the two caliper bolts, put the c clamp on the outside of either pad and compress them...then release the clamp, and remove the bolts and take off the caliper...make sure you suspend the caliper though, have some wire around to hang it from something to prevent the flexible brake like from pinching or breaking. then compress piston, replace pads, and obviously installation is the reverse of teardown...VERY simple work...and remember to put some anti squeal or whatever that stuff is called between the bad and caliper. Happy Stopping!
06-26-2006, 08:41 AM
#15
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Originally Posted by Joeywhat
On my 2000 SSE, I had to turn the pistons, not just push them in. It looks like you can use a special tool to do it, but I just used channel locks. Has anyone else here changed their pads and only had to compress the pistons instead of turning them? Just seems odd that I'm the only one who'* posted that so far...
06-26-2006, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Archon
The back pistons are the ones that need to be turned in.
Is there a special tool to turn the pistons in?
06-26-2006, 01:23 PM
#17
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The rear calipers require a spin-in tool
The e-brake is integral and this is typical GM rear calipers
I would not expect the fronts to require turn-in-press.
You can usually use a c-clamp and a screwdriver in the
piston shoe slot (where the shoe rides) to spin them in but
there is actually a proper tool for this that any auto-zone
would rent.
Careful with using any plier on the surface of the piston
since any scratching on the piston will cause seal failure
or leakage if not caliper bore damage.
The e-brake is integral and this is typical GM rear calipers
I would not expect the fronts to require turn-in-press.
You can usually use a c-clamp and a screwdriver in the
piston shoe slot (where the shoe rides) to spin them in but
there is actually a proper tool for this that any auto-zone
would rent.
Careful with using any plier on the surface of the piston
since any scratching on the piston will cause seal failure
or leakage if not caliper bore damage.
06-26-2006, 04:16 PM
#19
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I'll not only second that but it'* mandatory!
Seen way too many ABS proportioning valves fail/break
by not opening the bleeder. Open the master cylinder as well
Dump some fluid in a small container and attach a hose
from the bleeder to the container.
The only air that will enter the system will be from the bleeder
thread. A few pumps to bleed the system when finished and done.
The mightyvac reverse bleeders have lots of disclaimers
about reverse bleeding ABS systems...
Excellent FYI Mark!
Seen way too many ABS proportioning valves fail/break
by not opening the bleeder. Open the master cylinder as well
Dump some fluid in a small container and attach a hose
from the bleeder to the container.
The only air that will enter the system will be from the bleeder
thread. A few pumps to bleed the system when finished and done.
The mightyvac reverse bleeders have lots of disclaimers
about reverse bleeding ABS systems...
Excellent FYI Mark!
06-26-2006, 04:44 PM
#20
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Yeah, fogot to mention that the fronts didn't do this. I just used a pair of channel locks and a cloth to avoid damaging the piston. The special tool will probably work much faster, though.