I didn't want to hijack Brian'* regulator post but I would like to follow up on ideas for a preventive fix. I think Archon said it would be easier than fixing afterwards, as the cable wouldn't unwind. I am interested in doing this so it doesn't turn into a tough job on a week when I don't need to be dealing with something like that

Someone mentioned a metal clip could be made that replaces the black plastic clip. I haven't had mine apart yet, just looked at the pictures. If someone has better pictures of the clip (or a broke one they'd mail me) I'd like to throw some ideas around for getting something made. If it was a simple cross-section I could have a bar cut that shape and then slice pieces off. Maybe even make them available to other members. Any ideas? Could a piece like that be installed without removing the regulator from the door?

Woody the same bracket can go onto the piece before it'* actually broken to give it all more support, but unfortunately you will have to remove the regulator from the door to get at it. Goto Techinfo here on the site under mechanical and you'll see up close pics of the clip, the area it goes into and the bracket you need to use before and after all the fabricating.

Good luck!

Here'* the link to the techinfo article.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=97

Got that printed in color for safe keeping For some reason I had the impression the needed part would be a little different if you wanted to beef it up before it broke. Same parts though right?

Right! Only thing maybe needed to make it better is a couple of small washers (with a slit in them) for each end for extra strength.

OK, I can't quite figure out the entire story with the regulators from that tech post. What exactly does that plastic piece do, and what happens when it breaks? If that bracket fix really does the trick in making for a permanent fix, I may be able to have some made where I work. From my estimation it would only cost a couple bucks each depending on the material used. My only question at that point would be what material thickness would be required, and how sharp the bends need to be since the thicker the material, the more the corners end up being rounded.

If I had one of these apart it would probably be evident, but what holds the newly made bracket in place after it is complete, so it wouldn't fall out? I understand the slots go down over the cable, bridging the spring and the original plastic pieces which held the cable ends. Looks like the black plastic piece which the factory snaps into place is discarded...

Yes that black piece no longer fits and is replaced by the metal fabricated bracket. At this point the bracket stays in place by the force of the cables pulling on it from both ends and if made the correct size it stays in there pretty tight. It took me an hour or so to mod the corner bracket after bending it, straightening it, bending it again, grinding it and then sizing it again. If you guys could make one like it in bulk thats just as strong or stronger and with smaller holes at each end with a slit just big enough to fit the cable through that would be the icing on the cake for this fix!!! Bring it on boyz!!!!!

If I were going to tackle this job, I would use a piece of plain steel that is about 3/32" thick. Then you can drill the right size holes and start out with something that is already straight and the right width and length.....just bend and cut after drilling.

I like this steel support idea. It'* amazing how the designers ever thought this nylon piece would stand up to the stress of that wire pulling constantly on it.

I wonder if it would help to put the windows up only enough to just close without stalling out the motor to shut it tight......or is it the weight of the glass pulling down on it that does it?

The cable in the regulator is spring loaded, and is very tight which puts a lot of strain on the plastic. The weight of the window, and other pressures probably help, too.

When I was asked to write something for techinfo on the repair, I felt a few things were necessary. It had to be easy enough where virtually anyone would be able to do it, use standard, easily available tools, and off the shelf parts. The reason for that angle bracket that you have to straighten, then bend, is it was the only one that I could find that came reasonably close to the size needed....both length and width. Unfortunately, the legs of the bracket still had to be ground down in order to fit.

The needed dimensions for the bracket are part of the techinfo article. The dimension between the legs is 1 7/8 inches, the legs are 1/2 inch and the width is 3/8. I would think any machine shop would be able to make the needed bracket using that information. It would be great is someone wants to take up the project of having a machine shop make some, and then provide them at a reasonable cost to our members, it will save a signiricant amount of time for the project.