Ladies and Gents,

I know LOTS of us (seems like everyone actually) has had one or more windows (almost all rear) go out...the regulator/motor is the defect. Anyway, it seems it costs between 300-500 to get it fixed depending on labor costs and where you go. DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME PAYING TO GET IT FIXED.....as you can see....it will probably just break again. If you're under warranty, by all means go for it.

I had purchased an extended warranty from Warranty Gold for 2K back in March...now their insurance backer is under Chapter 11 and my warranty is worthless and I am out 2K....PISSED to say the least..but that'* why when mine broke, I didn't pay to have it fixed.

What I DID DO however only costed me NOTHING! All you need to you do is take the two door skins off and remove a few bolts, unplug your speaker, then drill a very small hole through your metal door frame and into your track. If you look at the track that your window sits in, there is a metal piece that already has a decent size hole in it. What I did was to drill a hole through my door frame and then into the track making a smaller hole below the existing hole in the track. I then drilled a deck screw (YES...A DECK SCREW) into the hole and it works PERFECTLY! Keeps it tight and up and I've had no problems! TOTAL COST WAS $0 like I said and since NONE of us ever use the back POS windows anyway, it'* perfect. Just my two cents..hope this saves some of you money! It looks completely professional and only took me 45 minutes (would only take 15 now that I know exactly how to do it).

Later,
Jason

When you say "door skins", are you talking sheet metal door skins or interior panel door skins?

In either case, maybe you could go into a little more detail about what you did.

I haven't had the problem you are talking about (yet), but some other had. If you can include pics, more detail, etc... that would only help.

Ok..here'* a more detailed explanation.

(1) Get a large flat head screwdrive and wrap it in a cloth or something so you don't scratch your paint

(2) There are 6 plastic bolt screws that you need to pry out. Since you've probably never taken your outer door skin off, it'll probably be pretty tough. Use a good flashlight and slide the screwdriver in between your door and the grey plastic area. When you see the bolts, place the screwdriver as close to the middle of the screw as possible. Use force and pry it out. Once you get all the plastic bolts out, disconnect your door speaker plug and remove the outer skin (the door frame).

Note: There are a few screws that you need to undo right above the speaker when you start to take the outer skin off.

(3) Now you will see a thin plastic black skin. This is the inner skin of your door. All you need to do is just remove it by hand. It'* held there by some black goo that is really sticky so you can reuse the same stuff when you're done. Once you've removed this, you will see the metal frame of your door.

(4) Now look in the big hole and you will see the track that your window actually sits in. Make sure it'* ALL THE WAY up. If you look closely at the metal piece which is the bottom of the track, you will see a hold that already exists. This hole is too big for a screw so just drill a small hole through the actual metal frame of the door and then a small one right below the existing hole in the bottom of the track.

(5) Insert your screw and put everything back the way you took it off. If you accidentally break your plastic push-on bolts...don't worry. You can get them at any autopoarts store..they're really cheap (mine actually didn't break so I reused the same ones). You can get them at Autozone or Pepboys.

If this explanation doesn't help, let me know. I can get pics if you really need them but I don't have any right now.

Hope this helps!
Jason

After this gets hashed out, and all the questions answered, I want this for Techinfo. Step by step, and PM it to either jr's3800 or myself.

Wow. That sounded kinda like an order....

Naw, not an order. You know me better than that. I'm tired. Slow brain. Excited there might be a cheap solution for this plague. I DEMAND this procedure if it works!

Here is my question on this subject. What are the dealers saying is the problem? Is it lack of use, or one particular part?

The reason I want to know, is it has not YET happened to mine, but if it is this common of a problem, I want to talk to the dealer before my GM warranty runs out.

What have the conversations been?

BonnevilleDad
there are a few posts here in 2000 forum but the jist is the cable breaks while in use or not. its a very poor design and usually means the window falls open.
I have mine c-clamped untill I find a cable replacement, untill then the window does not work.

So does it work, or no?

(Sorry, had to do a Lazarus, )

Well. you won't have to worry about the passenger rears doing that.. it was replaced about a month or 2 ago with the same exact problem of cable breaking