A/C & Heat issue (thanks BillBoost37)
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A/C & Heat issue (thanks BillBoost37)
Thanks BillBoost37, for helping to get my question in the right area. Okay, after being ripped off by dealers and other 'service' shops here I am trying to investigate my problems myself. Please bear with me. I have many little things wrong with my car and have identified most of them in other posts, but this one I'm not so sure of. I have a 2001 Black SSEi (and she is Sweeet). I have dual climate controls and I usually leave the climate control on a certain temp. Now, most of the time it will kick in and do what it is supposed to do, and sometimes not. And, it happens to either the A/C or the heat. It says that it is on, and the little bars move like it'* blowing air, but nothing. I live off of a bumpy road, and when I hit a bump with my right tire one day, the heat came on! Now, whenever the heat or A/C won't blow, I hit a bump. It turns on. Bumps do not make it go off after it has come on, thank goodness! I have checked the fuses & they are fine(battery and fuses under the backseat. That took a while to figure out!) I have a neighbor guy that is getting ready to help me learn to be a big girl and work on my own car and am trying to get to the root so we don't tear the whole thing up for no reason. (PS-BillBoost, what is this Intense Racing place? I probably should check it out?)
Any and all help is appreciated. :?
Any and all help is appreciated. :?
#2
RIP
True Car Nut
It'* likely the blower motor itself. You can replace it, or if you're up to it, try the repair that is described here.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...272&highlight=
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...272&highlight=
#3
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Hi Black Widow,
Thats my posts that Archon reffered you to. Mine was doing the same thing and all it turned out to be was a hidden ground prong on the bottom side of the connector that was not making contact with the motor housing to create a ground. Its really a simple fix and will save about $200 for the costs of a new motor.
Heres how to proceed:
1. Pull the panel under the glove comp off, should be 2 screws and a push-in (center) pin to remove. Unhook the light and lay out of the way
2. Turn on the car and the AC/heat (make sure you fan is on via the display, it should ramp up slowly), if not increase the fan speed to max. If the motor is not working you will not hear anything, you only have to watch the climate control panel for the fan speed to increase. Once its at high, jiggle the blk connector going into the bottom of the fan, it should be on the side nearest the pass door. Move it up and down and sideways, if fan starts to work, you have the same issue I did. Next step
3. turn everything off, remove connector going into fan, remove cooling tube in rear bottom of fan. There are 3 screws mounting the fan, they are not fun to get to, but not terrible either. Remove these and drop the fan straight down out of the dash. You will have to move some additional wiring to the side to do this and get it completely out, but you do not have to unhook anything to do this, just move the wiring
4. Once the fan is out, there are two phillips screws on the bottom of the motor, remove the and with a straight screw, gently pry the rear cover off. You have to do the very delicately as your motor brushes are here. After the cap is loose, work it over the brushes until its completely off the motor assembly.
5. I'm betting its pretty dirty in there? Have some electrical grade contact cleaner (no flash point, non-flammable), and spray, spray spray. Everything, then take an airline and blow everything out.
6. Now remove the connector assembly from the motor cap. Make note how it is in as it only works one way.
7. Now look at the bottom of the connector, the side that was on the very rear of the motor. There should be a metal prong bent over the connector housing. This has to make contact with the motor hoousing to provide a groung to the motor itself. Mine was bent and not making continuous contact. When I'd hit a bump or something, it would occasionally come on. This was the prong hitting against the housing.
8. My fix was to very lightly lift the prong up, not much, just enought to twist a piece of 18 guage speaker wire (stripped of course) under the prong, with about 1/4 inch of it hanging out past the prong. I then soldered this in place and bent the prong back to its original position. You could probably do it without soldering, but I liked the security of not doing it again.
9. Next you slide the connector assembly back over the motor shaft and brushes and seat into place. Make sure you again do this with the right side facing the motor end cap that you're getting ready to reinstall.
10. Now with the brushes seated, reinstall your end cap assembly making sure that your new ground wire is "pinched" by the motor cap cover and the connector plug assembly. You should be able to see a small bit of wire sticking out, this is good. reinsert the 2 phillips screws and tighten up. After all is tight, you can take a knife and gently push the exposed wire back between the motor housing and connector housing. This again just ensures a tight fit.
11. Reassemble back in car, don't forget the cooling hose in the rear, and insert connector. Turn on AC and smile
Hope this helps
Thats my posts that Archon reffered you to. Mine was doing the same thing and all it turned out to be was a hidden ground prong on the bottom side of the connector that was not making contact with the motor housing to create a ground. Its really a simple fix and will save about $200 for the costs of a new motor.
Heres how to proceed:
1. Pull the panel under the glove comp off, should be 2 screws and a push-in (center) pin to remove. Unhook the light and lay out of the way
2. Turn on the car and the AC/heat (make sure you fan is on via the display, it should ramp up slowly), if not increase the fan speed to max. If the motor is not working you will not hear anything, you only have to watch the climate control panel for the fan speed to increase. Once its at high, jiggle the blk connector going into the bottom of the fan, it should be on the side nearest the pass door. Move it up and down and sideways, if fan starts to work, you have the same issue I did. Next step
3. turn everything off, remove connector going into fan, remove cooling tube in rear bottom of fan. There are 3 screws mounting the fan, they are not fun to get to, but not terrible either. Remove these and drop the fan straight down out of the dash. You will have to move some additional wiring to the side to do this and get it completely out, but you do not have to unhook anything to do this, just move the wiring
4. Once the fan is out, there are two phillips screws on the bottom of the motor, remove the and with a straight screw, gently pry the rear cover off. You have to do the very delicately as your motor brushes are here. After the cap is loose, work it over the brushes until its completely off the motor assembly.
5. I'm betting its pretty dirty in there? Have some electrical grade contact cleaner (no flash point, non-flammable), and spray, spray spray. Everything, then take an airline and blow everything out.
6. Now remove the connector assembly from the motor cap. Make note how it is in as it only works one way.
7. Now look at the bottom of the connector, the side that was on the very rear of the motor. There should be a metal prong bent over the connector housing. This has to make contact with the motor hoousing to provide a groung to the motor itself. Mine was bent and not making continuous contact. When I'd hit a bump or something, it would occasionally come on. This was the prong hitting against the housing.
8. My fix was to very lightly lift the prong up, not much, just enought to twist a piece of 18 guage speaker wire (stripped of course) under the prong, with about 1/4 inch of it hanging out past the prong. I then soldered this in place and bent the prong back to its original position. You could probably do it without soldering, but I liked the security of not doing it again.
9. Next you slide the connector assembly back over the motor shaft and brushes and seat into place. Make sure you again do this with the right side facing the motor end cap that you're getting ready to reinstall.
10. Now with the brushes seated, reinstall your end cap assembly making sure that your new ground wire is "pinched" by the motor cap cover and the connector plug assembly. You should be able to see a small bit of wire sticking out, this is good. reinsert the 2 phillips screws and tighten up. After all is tight, you can take a knife and gently push the exposed wire back between the motor housing and connector housing. This again just ensures a tight fit.
11. Reassemble back in car, don't forget the cooling hose in the rear, and insert connector. Turn on AC and smile
Hope this helps
#5
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Thanks!
I will take this invaluable information and work on my car this weekend. I truly appreciate the specific detail, and I love this site! I'm sure you all will hear more from me. The more I check out the website, the more things I'm finding I can fix on the car myself. Thank you all for your experience and help. It'* good to know that these things are common and it'* not just me or the way I drive!!
#7
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Hey Cowboy! Of course the blower has worked beautifully since I want to check it! So, I have been trying to work on the drivers side seat heater, the clunking in the steering, and other little things. It was 80 degrees last week in Ohio and this week it is 34 or so. I am sure that it will act up this weekend when it'* freezing out! I have your directions on my visor, and my little toolbox in my trunk! I'll let ya know how it works out. Have a great Easter.
#9
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Glad to hear its working Black Widow. My drivers heated seat is out too. Elements no good. But, here in sunny GA I don't need it much. Probably just leave as is.
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