Spent the day with Scott and Jeff from INTENSE at a local dyno shop today. The INTENSE turbo car broke the record for a series iI HP run coming in around 650 crank HP. You can view the remarks here:

http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.as...e=1&*=#1143854

As for my runs. I was dealing with what we thought was a lean condition. I was getting some KR and what seemed to be O2 mv raitings in the 885 range according to the autotap. We decided to try an AFC 2.0 air fuel controller to see if we could richen it up. My first baseline run with the AFC at default (100 meaning no change) was my best and is listed below. What was strange is that both the dyno and the autotap showed me running 02 ratings in the 930-940 range running right where it should be. i was still getting KR and after a couple of more runs playing with the AFC to richen and then lean out the AF ratio we concluded that it is the PCM pulling timing based on some safety level. There is no real detonation or knock, its just programmed into the PCM to pull the timing at that RPM. I guess GM really doesn't want the car to go that fast.

So, in the end the mini-afc is doing nothing for me. Only thing going to fix that KR is a custom burned PCM and I'll wait to do that after the cam and headers. Some interesting things to note if your dynoing a 00+ car. Dyno it in second gear, turn off the TC button, and roll at 15-20 mph for about 20 seconds until the ABS and BRAKE lights come on. At this point the TCS figures there is a major traction problem and turns off the TCS at this point you can roll up to about 3200 RPM and then nail it for the dyno run. If you dont wait for the computer to turn on the lights the TCS will apply the brakes as you try to do the run. The other way around this is to remove the wheel speed sensors as discussed in the 00+ burnout thread on the BC. If you nail it before 3200 the car will shift down and you don't want that.



222.4 WHP, 297TQ

Some pics of 8-Ball on the dyno...I know the car is dirty, but we had to drive 30 miles to the dyno and the salt and the snow and the....






Here is a pic of Scott and the Turbo GTP on the dyno




Here are my other two runs. The second (red) was after we leaned it out a bit by setting the mini-afc to 98 percent. According to the wideband 02 sensor I was running fat (rich). I lost about 3 HP and picked up more knock with that so we richened the car up for pass 3 (blue) by setting the afc to 102 percent. I still had KR due to the PCM saftey features for that RPM range but made no more power (in fact less) than my baseline 100 percent run. What I'm still trying to figure out is why I was running so rich on the dyno when all my other runs on the street with the autotap showed me lean. Crazy... Anyway here are the runs:




Todd

Very cool Rogue. 222.4 WHP, 297TQ is pretty darn good in my book. Anybody know the tranny percent loss. I'm guessing twenty something. My old Aurora with 4T80e is figured at 24% loss. Your TQ is WAY above stock ratings with the tranny loss figuring in there, that HUGE!!! We gotta be pretty close you and me for now, you gonna whip my butt once you get stage 1x cam though. :P

Saw the GP thread and watched the video, very INTENSE! Day at the dyno always gets a little adrenline pumping.

Tranny loss is ~20%, and those numbers are right around where they should be. Since torque STOCK is actually right around 330lb.ft., the ~50lb.ft. added from the pulley is just about right. If you take the results and factor in the tranny loss the actual numbers are:

278 Horsepower
371.25 FT.LBS. Torque

Thats pretty close to what I would expect. That is a 38 horsepower and 91.25 ft.lb gain over the stock ratings. (which we all know are underrated)

Shawn

are the GM numbers at the wheel or the crank? Yours are at the wheel right Rogue?

GM is crank, dyno is wheel... unless its and engine dyno.. then its crank..

Yes, GM listing is crank, my specs are wheel. For conversion to crank multiply it by 20% as that is the standard parasitic loss for our stock torque converters. Sorry the pics are not showing. Web server is still down. I will try to get these back up soon as possible.

Actually to find the crank horsepower you divide the wheel horsepower by .8. If you just multiply it by 20% your numbers will be shy a little because you are assuming you lost 20% of the output, when you really lost 20% of the input which was a larger number meaning that 20% of that number was a larger amount. If that makes any sense.

Shawn

Yea your right, I stand corrected. I just woke up and need the coffee