I think so as well. The caliper bolts definitely need to be checked. But that'* an excellent point about needing more surface area. Is the increased diameter needed even with ceramic pads? Or especially with ceramic pads? (not really familiar with the friction comparison between composite and ceramic).

I guess that point is moot, as he did say in his original post that he'* getting Powerslot rotors and Hawk pads (I assume ceramic? ).

But, as I mentioned a few times already, we really need to check those caliper slide bolts.

This thread may be starting to get redundant...

Jim, the type of pad has no bearing on the diameter of the rotor. I was referring to drilled rotors. Aside from the fact that they crack, you lose a little bit of surface area for each hole. Add them all up. You'll see why now.

Yes, I understood about the loss of surface area. I was just curious if anyone knew if the ceramic pacs provided more friction, or "grab-ability" than comp per square cm of rotor. That info I can find out for myself. It would explain the proportion of equality when going from full rotors and comp, to drilled/slotted and ceramic.

But that'* off-topic, more or less, which is why I digressed. I was about to get into a bunch of mathematical probablility, hahah.

*waves hand* On with your scheduled thread! :P

Overall surface area of brake rotors has little to do with stopping force. Given a 13" rotor solid and compare it to a 13" drilled (chamfered) and slotted; the solid rotor would be less effective. The benefit is in the vacation of gases that are a by-product of braking force. The holes and slots allow the gases to escape, preventing "Pad Float". Additionally, the holes and slots maximize cooling so glazing and pedal fade are greatly reduced. If you want to get more technical on the advantages of drilled rotors, the voids created by drilling and slotting reduces unsprung weight and reduces overall weight of the vehicle, making it easier to stop and better handling characteristics.

If you like, I can go into MUCH greater detail about this and pad size, piston options, fluid dynamics and more!

Old school drilled rotors are prone to cracking under extreme conditions. This is because they were simply drilled and the sharp edges were not rounded off (chamfered).

Myth: Ceramic = better stopping
Truth: Ceramic has softer brake onset, higher gassing, less prone to fade, and a lighter color of brake dust.

If you want better stopping, go with a high grade (Wagner SX, EBC Red) of Semi-Metalic on a slotted rotor (unless you want the apeal of drilled [I don't blame you, I do!]). Better initial bite than ceramic, gassing and fade minimized with venting.

Also, GREASE your Slide Pins with synthetic grease and grease the backing plate of the pad with ceramic grease! Smooth, trouble free, and inexpensive!

I am building a 700HP L67 and brakes are a high priority for me. I have dropped $2k on the rear brakes and suspension alone already. Of course, I custom built the entire system. The front is going to be even better! However, I think I can get by much cheaper because the front alread had disc brakes and I done have to make provisions for Parking brakes.. Corvette brakes 'can' bolt on, so a big brake kit by Wilwood is on the docket for research.

please look at the dates on the threads before you post. this one is from 2007 thats 4 years ago and most of the posters are long gone from this thread. thanks

If you don't mind, you could start a new thread about brakes providing information about drilled and slotted rotors compared to non drilled and slotted as well as different pad types.