Originally Posted by TrueWildMan
Yes, I understood about the loss of surface area. I was just curious if anyone knew if the ceramic pacs provided more friction, or "grab-ability" than comp per square cm of rotor. That info I can find out for myself. It would explain the proportion of equality when going from full rotors and comp, to drilled/slotted and ceramic.
But that'* off-topic, more or less, which is why I digressed. I was about to get into a bunch of mathematical probablility, hahah.
*waves hand* On with your scheduled thread! :P
Overall surface area of brake rotors has little to do with stopping force. Given a 13" rotor solid and compare it to a 13" drilled (chamfered) and slotted; the solid rotor would be less effective. The benefit is in the vacation of gases that are a by-product of braking force. The holes and slots allow the gases to escape, preventing "Pad Float". Additionally, the holes and slots maximize cooling so glazing and pedal fade are greatly reduced. If you want to get more technical on the advantages of drilled rotors, the voids created by drilling and slotting reduces unsprung weight and reduces overall weight of the vehicle, making it easier to stop and better handling characteristics.
If you like, I can go into MUCH greater detail about this and pad size, piston options, fluid dynamics and more!
Old school drilled rotors are prone to cracking under extreme conditions. This is because they were simply drilled and the sharp edges were not rounded off (chamfered).
Myth: Ceramic = better stopping
Truth: Ceramic has softer brake onset, higher gassing, less prone to fade, and a lighter color of brake dust.
If you want better stopping, go with a high grade (Wagner SX, EBC Red) of Semi-Metalic on a slotted rotor (unless you want the apeal of drilled [I don't blame you, I do!]). Better initial bite than ceramic, gassing and fade minimized with venting.
Also, GREASE your Slide Pins with synthetic grease and grease the backing plate of the pad with ceramic grease! Smooth, trouble free, and inexpensive!
I am building a 700HP L67 and brakes are a high priority for me. I have dropped $2k on the rear brakes and suspension alone already. Of course, I custom built the entire system. The front is going to be even better! However, I think I can get by much cheaper because the front alread had disc brakes and I done have to make provisions for Parking brakes.. Corvette brakes 'can' bolt on, so a big brake kit by Wilwood is on the docket for research.