Hi. Took my 2003 Bonneville for an inspection and was told to replace the left hand side frontwheel bearing assembly.
I looked at the forum but found there is no information on the later models only the earlier ones and they are different.
There are no "allen" type bolts that you can loosen from the outside but there are 3 (three)
13 m/m bolts that you can access from the back.
Bought a Delco front hub assembly and will let you know how this turned out.

Same procedure, just that the bolts thread in to the hub instead of the strut assembly. Everything else is about the same. If you can't find the information, just ask and we will post it up for you.

Yes I would like the information on the front bearing replacment for the later models.
Is the large nut size still the same 1- 5/16 (34m/m)
and the torque of this still 115 ft/lbs ?

Yes I do realise the mounting bolts are different and now go from the backside and are 13m/m but some members seem to have problems with these 13m/m bolts and the top one has little room so one member suggested to move the alxle back a bit to get more room to get this bolt out.
Just thought some members would like to know.

Have not received a repy as yet.

I'm dealing with the same problem.
The axle nut is 34mm. The hub is held in by 3 13mm bolts from the back.
The bottom 2 come out easy.
The top one... well, not so easy. I still haven't gotten up the inspiration to go back out and mess with mine. All I can say is that its fairly well recessed in there, and having the outer CV right behind it limits your room to work.
Honestly, I think you need an offset wrench to get it. A standard flat wrench wont sit flush on it, due to the surface on the back of the knuckle. And sockets with a ratchet stick out too far.
Suggestion.. besides the offset wrench, maybe a 13mm 1/4" drive, with an extension to get past the CV boot might work. If you turn it so the front is facing out. Be careful, the head is very thin, and very easy to round off if you try using wobblers or anything that takes pressure off the center of that bolt head. There isn't much room to grab onto it, and it is a very soft metal.
Not sure about pulling the hub, might come out easy, might not. Haven't gotten that far yet, but I have a hub puller just in case.
After last nights frustration, this stupid cold weather, the threat of rain, and my head cold, I just don't have the ambition to finish what I started yet.
I'm going to end up yanking the strut out to get to mine.. when I get there. But I have new ones to go in anyway, so not that big of a waste of time for me.

I'm doing the front passanger side on a 1999 GP on monday, I can take a video if that would help out

Tomorrow I am going to have a look at these three 13m/m bolts and if neccessary I wil make up a special tool
to remove that top bolt like modifying an impact 13 m/m socket and welding a large flat bar on it to get some extra leverage. Will keep you informed as I do not want to round it or skin my knuckles.

Try turning the wheel maybe ,,,,,I have done them on my 03 twice now with nothing special past a gear wrench.

I dont remember exacatlly how to get to it, but I know it was no big deal.

Ok, mine are both done. Pouring rain, cold, allergies, whatever. Done.

Tip 1. Take the strut to knuckle mounting bolts out. This will let you get to those 13mm bolts a lot easier. Again, they are soft metal, and not very thick. Something with a lot of leverage will tend to try and pull the (socket, wrench, etc) off the bolt, and rounding it off, hence where my problem began. And if they've never been out before, its tough. Spec I believe is 70 lb/ft, which doesn't sound like a lot, but it is in that tight of an area.

Tip 2. Soak everything in PB. The bolts, the axle splines, the whole exterior where hub meets knuckle.

Tip 3. Loosen the sway bar end links. Don't take them off, just loosen them up. It will allow the control arm to pivot downward more, giving you more room to work.

Tip 4. Rent a puller. Seriously. Besides the mounting flange to knuckle surface you do see, there is a whole 1" or so behind it that seats very tightly into the knuckle bore. And believe me, they are in there. No pry bar, hammer, or beating the snot out it will help. I have a puller, and it worked great. But.. key is, you have to take the bolts out first, put the strut back on, then put the puller on. It presses the axle shaft back, and pulls on the wheel studs to yank the hub out. Pass side came out easy. Driver side, well, just to tell you how hard they are in there, my puller broke the whole hub assembly in half. I had half attached to the puller, and half still in the bore. Which was easily knocked out with a hammer. That is how tough they may end up. You might get lucky and have them come out easy, or they might fight you to the bitter end like my driver side did.

Tip 5. Detaching the strut allow a lot more room while working, especially for the ABS wire to come through. Once I get the new bearing lined up, I put some grease on the knuckle bore, and the axle splines. Once the axle is seated, Then try to center the hub, and pull it into place. Once they start, turn them evenly, to pull the hub straight back.
As for sizes, etc
Axle nut is a 34mm (TQ to 118 lb/ft), strut to knuckle nuts are 24mm (I believe), hub retaining bolts are 13mm (actually 1/2" fits even more snug) (TQ to 70 lb/ft), Brake caliper bolts are 15mm, ABS sensor and brake hose to strut retaining brackets are 10mm.

Turning side to side helps, but the main problem is the outer CV, especially with the upper bolt. The bottom 2 I had out no problem. If you can get a tool on the top one with enough room to spare, and keep it centered on the bolt head while cranking on it, all the power to ya. I learned my lesson the hard way though.

Good luck!