Advice needed QUICK! Thermostat/Coolant. !!!FIXED!!!
#13
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Originally Posted by RJGill84
That would certainly be nice if thats all it was! How can I really tell though?
Then, as suggested, get a flashlight and a mechanic'* mirror. If you have a bad leak, you may be able to see it with the engine off. Try that first. If it is not dripping without the engine running, start the engine and look carefully to see where the leak is coming from. Be careful you don't get caught in the moving belt! You might have to raise the front of the car, support it on jackstands, remove the RF wheel and inner splash shield to see more clearly.
Here'* a little trick. By shining the flashlight on the mirror and moving the mirror around, you can illuminate hidden areas from almost any angle and see the reflection in the mirror.
#14
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I agree with Bill. A large external leak is not likely to be an intake problem. The water pump or coolant elbows are likely the problem. Fix that, then do the intakes the right way.
#15
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That would be a relief if that were the case! Although, I have been having a low/missing coolant situation since the summer..where coolant would just disappear. Could it have just been leaking from the waterpump/elbows and burning off?
Either way, my plan is to replace the water pump / elbows and then tackle the LIM/UIM the proper way, as you suggested Archon. I started the car last night and took a flashlight out and did NOT see any coolant leaking..so I'm still relatively clueless as to where exactly it is coming from.
However, it is definitely a large leak..as it literally pours out from underneath the right side of the engine...and pooled up into a foot wide puddle within 35 minutes.
Either way, my plan is to replace the water pump / elbows and then tackle the LIM/UIM the proper way, as you suggested Archon. I started the car last night and took a flashlight out and did NOT see any coolant leaking..so I'm still relatively clueless as to where exactly it is coming from.
However, it is definitely a large leak..as it literally pours out from underneath the right side of the engine...and pooled up into a foot wide puddle within 35 minutes.
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In addition to all the other ideas, the only other thing I can think of would be to buy a pressure tester and pressure test it. Maybe let the engine get good and warm bring it back home shut it off, wait like minutes and go back out, get under the car and see where it'* dripping from. Time to look in your toolbox for those special Dexcool illuminating glasses :P
Bill, nice suggestion with the flashlight and mirror. I'm trying to find a very pesky leak on my Silverado right now. I'm pretty sure it'* the waterpump or gasket.
Anyway, good luck.
Bill, nice suggestion with the flashlight and mirror. I'm trying to find a very pesky leak on my Silverado right now. I'm pretty sure it'* the waterpump or gasket.
Anyway, good luck.
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Well, I'm going to purchase a new water pump and 180* t-stat tonight, as well as a water pump gasket and thermostat gasket. I can't find the "elbows" you guys are referencing on AutoZone'* website, so I will have to try to explain it to them.
I plan to make sure that is what'* actually leaking before I go buy the parts tonight, but I don't want to spend $16 on Prestone Dex compatible fluid only to waste it pouring out. Is it safe to use water to find the leak?
Also - is there a how-to anywhere on replacing the water pump and t-stat? I can't seem to find one. Thanks for your help guys, MUCH appreciated!
I plan to make sure that is what'* actually leaking before I go buy the parts tonight, but I don't want to spend $16 on Prestone Dex compatible fluid only to waste it pouring out. Is it safe to use water to find the leak?
Also - is there a how-to anywhere on replacing the water pump and t-stat? I can't seem to find one. Thanks for your help guys, MUCH appreciated!
#18
Dorman/Help! - 47065
(should be 2 elbows, even though only 1 is pictured)
water works.
drain the coolant before the following:
water pump: loosen the 4 bolts on the pulley of the water pump before removing the belt, otherwise it will just spin when you try to remove it. other than that, remove all the bolts and remove. scrap the gasket surfaces, put new gasket in place, and bolt on new pump.
thermostat: take out the 2 bolts that hold the thermostat housing on, take out the thermostat,scrap off all the old gasket material on both surfaces, insert the new thermostat with the O-ring, and then put the new gasket down, then the housing, and re-torque the bolts.
Coolant Fill Procedure for the L36 3800 Series II
(should be 2 elbows, even though only 1 is pictured)
water works.
drain the coolant before the following:
water pump: loosen the 4 bolts on the pulley of the water pump before removing the belt, otherwise it will just spin when you try to remove it. other than that, remove all the bolts and remove. scrap the gasket surfaces, put new gasket in place, and bolt on new pump.
thermostat: take out the 2 bolts that hold the thermostat housing on, take out the thermostat,scrap off all the old gasket material on both surfaces, insert the new thermostat with the O-ring, and then put the new gasket down, then the housing, and re-torque the bolts.
Coolant Fill Procedure for the L36 3800 Series II
#19
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Originally Posted by RJGill84
I don't want to spend $16 on Prestone Dex compatible fluid
No one believes that "mixes with any color/type" coolant will cause problems.
Wal-Mart sells mixes with any color for about $7/gallon.
Chilton'* H-body repair manual should provide you with a pretty good step-by step procedure for common repairs. About $20 at most parts stores. Or maybe you can check it out of your local library like I can. Cheaper yet.