SES = Evap Control Solenoid
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SES = Evap Control Solenoid
So the SES light came on today and I had it scanned. It came up as the evap control solenoid. Anyone had problems with this? Any idea on cost to repair if I need to?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#5
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True Car Nut
It'* not hard to do, but it can be a pain to track down exactly where the problem is. It could be the control solenoid, the vent valve, evap cannister, fuel tank pressure sensor or any of the lines running between the different sections. Start with the lines for a vacuum link as Bill suggested. Start by the control solenoid, the small black cylinder about in the middle of the engine back by the firewall. You'll have to remove the engine cover to see it well. Check the lines there, also at the evap cannister under the car near the about under where the rear seat is, as well as the lines running to the vent valve by the back tire.
#6
I had this problem a while ago. I was even less car savvy then than I am now. The dealership wanted $80 or $100 just to DIAGNOSE the problem. Like everyone said, it could just be a leaky hose somewhere. I found the Evap Control Solenoid, the Evap Solenoid by the EVAP Canister (forget the exact name), and a fuel pressure sensor on GMPartsdirect.com for about $76 shipped. Even knowing very little about fixing cars, I had the evap control solenoid and the fuel pressure sensor replaced in about 30 minutes.
I then jacked the car, found the EVAP canister (driver'* side, underside of the car between the back door and gas tank- square/black box with lines going to it), pulled it out and tried to dump any gas out. There shouldn't be any in that box, and there wasn't in my case. The canister costs something like $150. I put it back in, found the other solenoid tucked up by the gas tank between the canister and the tank above the wheel, pulled it and replaced it. Car has run fine ever since (say...80,000 miles).
Now, this IS NOT the way to diagnose and fix problems. You are gambling and probably replacing some parts that you don't need to. I did it because I didn't know how to diagnose, and they wanted more to diagnose than for me to just buy the parts. Normally, I would learn the diagnostic procedures, but in this case it wasn't worth it IMO. YMMV.
Good luck.
I then jacked the car, found the EVAP canister (driver'* side, underside of the car between the back door and gas tank- square/black box with lines going to it), pulled it out and tried to dump any gas out. There shouldn't be any in that box, and there wasn't in my case. The canister costs something like $150. I put it back in, found the other solenoid tucked up by the gas tank between the canister and the tank above the wheel, pulled it and replaced it. Car has run fine ever since (say...80,000 miles).
Now, this IS NOT the way to diagnose and fix problems. You are gambling and probably replacing some parts that you don't need to. I did it because I didn't know how to diagnose, and they wanted more to diagnose than for me to just buy the parts. Normally, I would learn the diagnostic procedures, but in this case it wasn't worth it IMO. YMMV.
Good luck.
#7
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I just went over 87,000 miles on the car and one of my buddies mentioned what you said. It shouldnt cause a driveability issue, so I will just hold off for now and wait til I get back home so my mechanic and I can work on it. With the new car, I like to be involved in everything, so this will be a good learning experience.
Thanks for the help guys!!
Thanks for the help guys!!
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