Hey there - I'm 30 yrs old and been reading on this post before I might buy a Bonnie all the problems inherent with this vehicle, the top 10 main problem areas, etc. I hope you as reader might comment on the results as to whether you think I should buy, or whether some of the problems I mention are going to be a big hassle/expense down the road.

I test drove a silver 2000 Bonneville SE (94,000mi.) in Tucson today, used dealer price $4995, to see how it drove and did some other mechanical checks.

General inspection:
All the power window regulators still worked, even in back.
No apparent leaks in the doors or trunk (it rained yesterday and the carpet was dry in all cabin and trunk areas)
Motor mounts were fine
No paint bubbles on hood
No road rash
Didn't check cv boots yet
Gas guage worked fine, so did oil pressure guage
Oil seemed thick and not contaminated with coolant (intake gasket leak problem), so appears it doesn't have that leak - although the coolant reservoir was nearly empty....that could be due to various reasons from basic lack of filling it up to a leak somewhere.
Bridgestone tires lots of tread left, but starting to dry rot (crack)---should last awhile longer)
Engine bay was extremely clean
Cloth interior and carpets very clean
Idle very smooth, a about 800-900 rpm

Driving results:
1. I did notice the intermediate shaft was clunking a little when turning the wheel hard. I have only ridden in the Bonneville once, and I'm already starting to get annoyed with it - if a person did put a new revised one in, will that sound go away, at least for awhile? Greasing it, too....this just seems like a really stupid problem by gm that owners shouldn't have to worry about.

2. At about 70 mph-75 mph, a fair amount of vibration in the wheel. I've seen some old posts-could be tires, tie rods, who knows.... but the vibration seemed to go away above 80mph and below 70mph.

3. Sitting at a stoplight, sometimes it smells like burning plastic or smoke something in the cabin that goes away fairly quickly....maybe a leaking valve cover gasket? Something else?

4. Once at slow speeds (30mph) a little jerk from the transmission shifting up to the next gear. A minor problem or major expensive headache?

5. Brakes had a slight shutter to them when braking at both slow and high speeds. Felt this in other cars too like the Intrepid and Lesabre. My guess is the rotors might be a bit warped... can these rotors be resurfaced once or twice before having to get whole new rotors?

Overall, I think the comfort and styling of this car is pretty good. I still plan to swap in from ebay a oem stereo with a cd player (this car just has cassette), and also add a $40 aftermarket keyless entry system, and add a better tint job.

Seems to me at the minimum I'd be adding in for repairs/upgrades:
replacement radio off ebay (about $100-$150 incl. unlock code)
keyless entry ($40)
new valve cover gasket ($200)
turn rotors, rebalance tires ($75)
intermediate shaft (grease myself) or put new one in ($80 from gm+ship, install: $200 total)
New window tint: $150
New weatherstripping bars right below windows (these are faded and cracked) - $50?
Floor mats - $25

Dealer said in their pre-sell overhauls brake pads are replaced if less than 60%, so that'* why just the $75 brake work/tire job above....by not sure if a person can trust a used car dealer on that info. So basically looking at another $900 input to get started.
Trading in a pretty green 95 Jeep grand cherokee i want 2k for in trade in, so looking around 3k +$900 repairs +$600 tax, title, license, doc fees.

So, that'* about $4500 for a 2000 Pontiac Bonneville SE with the upgrades and repairs mentioned. You think this is a good deal worth jumping into? The Bonnie has a certain charm to it, with some mechanical disadvantages I'm willing to overlook to a certain point because I normally do all the mechanical work to my cars myself. Most other comparables, like the Grand Prix or Intrepid, seem a little small and/or chintzy, and I hate the interior drabness of Toyotas and Hondas.

Thanks for reading and look forward to your comments!

Why an aftermarket keyless enrty? The car should have that already.

I am suspicious of the low coolant. Just because there is no coolant in the oil doesn't rule out the intake gaskets.

The transmission shifting hard is not a good sign either. It is possible it is a Pressure Control Solenoid. Changing it is a PITA. If you determine it is a PCS, a $90 shift kit is easier and cheaper and will probably fix it. But it isn't a slam-dunk that it is the PCS.

The vibration at 70 sounds extreme. It is possible the brakes would cause that. Balancing the wheels could make a difference.

If the brakes shudder, you will probably need new rotors. The OEM rotors (and cheap replacements) are notorious for warping. If you turn the the existing rotors, they will just be warped again in a month. $75 probably won't do it. In my experience, it doesn't take much to cause this in these cars. The work needs to be done by someone of better than average skill to get everything straight and accurate.

Keep in mind that swapping OEM radios will require a trip to the dealer to program the TheftLock (as much as $100 depending on the dealer).

They are good cars.... You might want to add wheel bearings to your list. Just a guess, but with the vibe and the mileage..... All used cars have there problems. I would talk them down and buy it. But I like em.

Thanks for the input so far hawkjet and fbody....Yeah, I bet I'm gonna have to put on new rotors. Cross-drilled ones worth it? They look cool at least. Keyless entry I'm adding because this base SE model doesn't have it. Looks like for 2000 it was offered as standard only on the SLE and SSEi and not on the SE unless it was put in as an option.

This steering shaft problem is something I'd like some more input on, as to whether it can really be fixed with a fair amount of luck and the redesigned part from gmdirect.

Not quite sure what to think of that little transmission lurch I experienced. Might have been just a misshift, it shifted flawlessly on the interstate, or might be more serious as hawk suggests.

Mine is in the shop as we speak for the pressure control solenoid. Mine jerks while shifting at the lower speeds. Once I hit highway speeds, it goes away. I'll keep you updated on the total damage for this.

Read my blurb below on the Intermediate Shaft -- mine is on number 4 and original owner (well my mom was).

I replaced it myself and GM is footing the bill this time. Almost three weeks and approx 350 - 400 miles later on the 'Double D' design .. still no clunk!

My Magnasteer has also been set to FIRM as well so I'm sure it was intensifying the effect previously.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=95416

In regards to the intermediate shaft. I had the dealer replace mine a week after I bought it which was 16 months ago. 40k later and no clunk. They used the new style from what I was told.

I would also tell them, replace it, don't grease it or I would be back until they got it right.

I have an 03 se an I love it. Now only if Idiots and animals would stop breaking my front bumper

Do you have, or can you get the VIN? Please post if possible. This will help a little.

Torero500, Welcome to the "BC" As you can see by my signature, we have two Bonnevilles at our house, the wife'* '99 and my '02. We love them both, and even with the known problems I think they are cars with excellent value overall. Besides, in my opinion, most of the common known problems can be fixed by any decent mechanic. (I'm retired, and still do all of my own mechanical work in my home garage.)

The one thing in your post that made me post this reply is your comment on the coolant recovery bottle being nearly empty. :? To me, this is a definite warning sign of coolant being "ingested" due to the very common failures related to "coolant leaks." (which I'm sure you will read about, if you haven't already.) It doesn't get into the motor oil, that is not until you experience the "catastrophic lower intake manifold gasket failure." And if you should wait that long, I'm thinking that you'll be pretty sorry because it may cause a lot of other engine damage. (again plenty of detailed material for you to read on this most excellent "bonneville club" website.)

Once again, please read the excellent discussions on this website related to coolant leak issues. If you read, heed, and take "preventive maintenance action" you will be very glad you did.

When I go back I'm going to check around those bolts for any seepage. Should it be that the upper intake manifold is leaking and has never been replaced, how long do you think it could take to replace it? I read jr'* detailed repair post....looks like about 4-5 hours one day to tear down, then come back the next day to re-assemble. Maybe shorter maybe longer....why am I buying a Bonneville again??? lol