2000+ SSEi Reliability sucks!!!!!!!
#21
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Originally Posted by MACDRIVE
Wow ! You sure stirred up a hornet'* nest with that last post dbtk2. I read the list of repairs you posted. To me that don't sound bad at all. I think you're expecting way to much from a car. If you want that kind of reliability, then you have bought yourself a Caterpillar bulldozer. Are you complaining about having to do the maintenance or the expense ? Are you turning your own wrenches or paying somebody else to do it ? And about the power windows, it'* probably the cable on the regulator that is broken and not the motor.
The rear windows were the cable, but you can't just buy the cable that I know of. The part to fix it (cable and motor unit) is ~$300. So I went to the hardware store and bought some screws and problem fixed.
I don't mind doing maintenance, I enjoy working on cars. Thats why I'm currently going to school to be a mechanic. I'm already a certified mechanic in MI in Auto Engine Repair, Auto Electrical Systems, and Auto Engine Performance. It would have to be a VERY major repair for me to pay someone to do it, I can't actually think of one I'd pay for at this time, but I might come accross something.
If I thought the reliability was bad then I don't think we would have all the GM cars we have. If I am doing my math correctly, we've bought a new GM car equipped with an L67 every 2 years since 2000, if we didn't think the reliability was good that wouldn't have happened.
Oh yeah, also, welcome to the club. Hopefully you stick around and enjoy it here.
Shawn
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Re: reliabiltiy
Originally Posted by SSEBONNE4EVA
Just think if you had that Honda you could have changed 2 rubber timing belts by the time it reaches 120K at $300 - 400 a pop. Then theres the external rust issue and possible blown head gasket.
I know your just being sarcastic but once you reach 160k and had no major engine problems your doing well.
I'll never understand the Honda thing though.....
I know your just being sarcastic but once you reach 160k and had no major engine problems your doing well.
I'll never understand the Honda thing though.....
Sorry, but if you search you can have a timing belt for under 300$,
on my hatchback mine cost me 125$ with a water pump, thats the only major problem i got,
And the body of the car had over 200 000km.
The only problem i see is how people drive their honda. That make blown gasket, drink oil, etc... for sure it can happen...
But for the money i put in repair on my bonneville, it should run high 12 second on slick now.
We are just talking about reliabilty, i still love my bonneville
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Re: reliabiltiy
Originally Posted by mike_peperni
Originally Posted by SSEBONNE4EVA
Just think if you had that Honda you could have changed 2 rubber timing belts by the time it reaches 120K at $300 - 400 a pop. Then theres the external rust issue and possible blown head gasket.
I know your just being sarcastic but once you reach 160k and had no major engine problems your doing well.
I'll never understand the Honda thing though.....
I know your just being sarcastic but once you reach 160k and had no major engine problems your doing well.
I'll never understand the Honda thing though.....
Sorry, but if you search you can have a timing belt for under 300$,
on my hatchback mine cost me 125$ with a water pump, thats the only major problem i got,
And the body of the car had over 200 000km.
The only problem i see is how people drive their honda. That make blown gasket, drink oil, etc... for sure it can happen...
But for the money i put in repair on my bonneville, it should run high 12 second on slick now.
We are just talking about reliabilty, i still love my bonneville
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I know, ... its an image...
i was saying a lot faster than now, ...may be mid 13'* ... to be exact.
im sure you know what i mean
next time ill try to be accurate
i was saying a lot faster than now, ...may be mid 13'* ... to be exact.
im sure you know what i mean
next time ill try to be accurate
#25
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Originally Posted by mike_peperni
I know, ... its an image...
i was saying a lot faster than now, ...may be mid 13'* ... to be exact.
im sure you know what i mean
next time ill try to be accurate
i was saying a lot faster than now, ...may be mid 13'* ... to be exact.
im sure you know what i mean
next time ill try to be accurate
thats the same as any car... if they didnt break, they would all be pretty, and fast
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Re: reliabiltiy
Originally Posted by mike_peperni
The only problem i see is how people drive their honda. That make blown gasket, drink oil, etc... for sure it can happen...
Shawn
#27
Re: reliabiltiy
Originally Posted by dbtk2
Originally Posted by mike_peperni
The only problem i see is how people drive their honda. That make blown gasket, drink oil, etc... for sure it can happen...
Shawn
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Re: reliabiltiy
Originally Posted by harofreak00
Originally Posted by dbtk2
Originally Posted by mike_peperni
The only problem i see is how people drive their honda. That make blown gasket, drink oil, etc... for sure it can happen...
Shawn
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Shawn,
Whoooooooooooaaaaaaaaaaaaa,
I'm sure glad we got that cleared up. And no I didn't catch your sarcasm, which is why I wrote my sarcastic post. Sheeeeeeesh, I really need to watch it. Anyway, I'm glad you're not one of those guys who takes their car to the dealer and complains about the cost. About the regulator: If you ever have it out someday, look down in the "track" and you will see that the cable didn't actually break, but rather ripped out of the plastic block that it'* anchored to. The part that fails is the plastic block and not the cable. As a result, the window slides down into the door because it'* no longer being supported by the cable. Then when you hit the button and try to bring the window back up, the cable ( being unattached) will whip around, get kinked up, and stop the motor. This is where people think the motor is bad, but in reality, the motor is just being strangled by the cable. Last time I checked, the guy at (regulatorusa.com) will sell the regulator without the motor, and you just put your old motor on it. The guy also says he "improves"on the design by making a reinforcement where the cable attaches. In the meantime I did like you did, propped up the window by clamping a pair of hemostats on the track to hold the window up while I waited for the regulator.
Thank you for the invitation Shawn, and I look forward to hearing from you on this forum.
Vance
Whoooooooooooaaaaaaaaaaaaa,
I'm sure glad we got that cleared up. And no I didn't catch your sarcasm, which is why I wrote my sarcastic post. Sheeeeeeesh, I really need to watch it. Anyway, I'm glad you're not one of those guys who takes their car to the dealer and complains about the cost. About the regulator: If you ever have it out someday, look down in the "track" and you will see that the cable didn't actually break, but rather ripped out of the plastic block that it'* anchored to. The part that fails is the plastic block and not the cable. As a result, the window slides down into the door because it'* no longer being supported by the cable. Then when you hit the button and try to bring the window back up, the cable ( being unattached) will whip around, get kinked up, and stop the motor. This is where people think the motor is bad, but in reality, the motor is just being strangled by the cable. Last time I checked, the guy at (regulatorusa.com) will sell the regulator without the motor, and you just put your old motor on it. The guy also says he "improves"on the design by making a reinforcement where the cable attaches. In the meantime I did like you did, propped up the window by clamping a pair of hemostats on the track to hold the window up while I waited for the regulator.
Thank you for the invitation Shawn, and I look forward to hearing from you on this forum.
Vance
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Re: reliabiltiy
Originally Posted by harofreak00
Originally Posted by dbtk2
Originally Posted by mike_peperni
The only problem i see is how people drive their honda. That make blown gasket, drink oil, etc... for sure it can happen...
Shawn
and there isnt a day that my bonnie doesnt see 6000rpm at WOT