2000-2005 COMMON PROBLEMS .......and solutions
#62
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2000 Bonneville
Trunk leak - Cost to fix it yourself $0
Approximate time to fix: few minutes
Simple solution - Remove rubber plug(*) on bottom interior of deck lid which will then allow water to drain while the lid is down rather than having it accumulate and then pour into the trunk when opening the deck lid and watering packages inside.
You may also try removing spoiler and weatherstrip holes for fasteners, which takes more time. I've heard the leak may also be around the brake light, so you may also consider weatherstripping around there as well if you don't want water to enter in the first place.
Window regulator units - Cost to fix it yourself $225 - $325 incl tax (from dealer)
Approximate time to fix: About 2 hours. Dealer labor cost is more like $80/hour
I've replaced 2 window regulators myself and used the motor in 1 of the 2 removed to have a dealer replace the motor in a 3rd unit. So 3 of 4 doors have had issues in 6 years on a 2000 Bonneville. The first 2 had problems with the cable kinking and the plastic pulley deforming. Part (#25750520) is made in China. Seems like poor quality at a high cost.
Interior water leak - Cost to fix it yourself (could be $5-$10 for fasteners)
Approximate time to fix: Time to remedy problem: 1-1/2 hours. Time-consuming to remove front seat and rear carpet and dry front carpet in-place while rear carpet dries elsewhere. More time and cost if electrical problems ensue.
It seems water pooling in the interior flooring and causing carpeting to become water-logged is another common issue. As well as the issues mentioned in other threads, consider another rather simple solution. Road debris can over time become wedged right behind the front wheel in the wheel well area. Remove the front tire on the same side the interior carpeting is wet. This will allow much easier access to the fastener holding the plastic moulding to the wheel well, which is on the bottom of the wheel well and towards the inside (hidden from view). After removing the fastener, gently pry open to determine if debris has built up where rain would otherwise flow that comes down around the bottom corner of the windshield. If debris builds up, rain/water may enter the car interior instead of flowing down and out around the bottom of the wheel well area.
Oil pressure regulator
Thanks for the info. That'* next on the list. I'm guessing it triggers a "Service Engine Soon" light.
Trunk leak - Cost to fix it yourself $0
Approximate time to fix: few minutes
Simple solution - Remove rubber plug(*) on bottom interior of deck lid which will then allow water to drain while the lid is down rather than having it accumulate and then pour into the trunk when opening the deck lid and watering packages inside.
You may also try removing spoiler and weatherstrip holes for fasteners, which takes more time. I've heard the leak may also be around the brake light, so you may also consider weatherstripping around there as well if you don't want water to enter in the first place.
Window regulator units - Cost to fix it yourself $225 - $325 incl tax (from dealer)
Approximate time to fix: About 2 hours. Dealer labor cost is more like $80/hour
I've replaced 2 window regulators myself and used the motor in 1 of the 2 removed to have a dealer replace the motor in a 3rd unit. So 3 of 4 doors have had issues in 6 years on a 2000 Bonneville. The first 2 had problems with the cable kinking and the plastic pulley deforming. Part (#25750520) is made in China. Seems like poor quality at a high cost.
Interior water leak - Cost to fix it yourself (could be $5-$10 for fasteners)
Approximate time to fix: Time to remedy problem: 1-1/2 hours. Time-consuming to remove front seat and rear carpet and dry front carpet in-place while rear carpet dries elsewhere. More time and cost if electrical problems ensue.
It seems water pooling in the interior flooring and causing carpeting to become water-logged is another common issue. As well as the issues mentioned in other threads, consider another rather simple solution. Road debris can over time become wedged right behind the front wheel in the wheel well area. Remove the front tire on the same side the interior carpeting is wet. This will allow much easier access to the fastener holding the plastic moulding to the wheel well, which is on the bottom of the wheel well and towards the inside (hidden from view). After removing the fastener, gently pry open to determine if debris has built up where rain would otherwise flow that comes down around the bottom corner of the windshield. If debris builds up, rain/water may enter the car interior instead of flowing down and out around the bottom of the wheel well area.
Oil pressure regulator
Thanks for the info. That'* next on the list. I'm guessing it triggers a "Service Engine Soon" light.
#64
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My 2000 Pontiac Bonneville SSEi
Hey guys.....kinda new to the forum.....but I can already tell that this is the place for folks like us. BTW I used the rear window regulator fix, and my power window is back to fully operational status!! (It took about 3 hours and all 4 angle brackets in the pack to get it just perfect, but it worked) Thanks to all involved with instructions and excellent pictures!
I do however want to pick all of your brains for a minute, and share some of my frustrations with you all. I have come to a crossroad, and its to the point of either sell or keep........and after the recent flurry of repairs I've done, I simply can't afford to continue at this clip, even doing the repairs myslef. I do love my bonne, and it'* the most enjoyable car I've ever owned, but I am genuinely concerned of it'* longevity.
I purchased when it had just over 60k, about 2 1/2 years ago. It now has 125k (Yes I have a long HIGHWAY commute to work and back) I should have seen the writing on the wall, but I had the dealer fix 2 problems before I even agreed to purchase it.
Pre-sale Item #1 - Both heated seats needed repair (we all know you push the button, it clicks, the light lights up for a second, then goes out) .....So they did it.
Presale Item #2 - The transmission surging when increasing a couple of miles an hour on the freeway, or going up a hill. (BTW I haven't seen anyone mention this problem on the site, but I googled it, and other folks have noted the same defect.)
Both items were fixed (to my knowledge) and I drove my new 2000 SSEi bonne home.
The nightmare then began. I should begin by stating that my cousin is the service manager of a GM dealer locally, and he gives me best price on labor/parts whenever possible.
Repair #1 Transmission mount CRACK, rough shifting, transmission free wheenling inside engine compartment, no damage to tranny.
Mount $100.35
Labor $103.50
Tax$13.25
Total Cost $217.10
Mileage Out 85,368
Repair #2 The tensioner pulley for the serpentine belt BROKE of while driving, and began to shread the belt. Luckily I heard this, pulled over, and had it towed to the dealer b4 it snapped.
Belt $44.42
Pulley $35.50
Labor $77.28
Tax $10.21
Towing Charge $70.95 (Hour from my house when it failed)
Total Cost $238.36
Mileage Out 97,500
Repair #3 All LED'* in the radio went out simultaneously.
Found used/refurbished on ebay.
Shipped/Out the door
$152
Mileage Out 100,000
Repair #4 Passenger rear regulator
Regulator $242.34
Labor $60
Tax $19.65
Total Cost $321.99
Mileage out 100,911
Repair #5 - Left front bearing loose, both front tie rods need replaced.
Hub kit $302.00
Tie rods kit $79.24
Front end alignment $29.95
Labor $204.95
Tax $38.10
Total Cost $624.29
Mileage Out 104,974
Repair#6 - Service engine soon light - diagnosis - Rust around gas cap, need new gas cap, sand rust off filler neck, evap system smoke test. Also advised me that, oil pressure send unit failure, needs replaced also.
Gas cap $25.40
Labor $69.95
Tax $5.72
Total $101.07
Mileage Out 116,739
Repair #7 - Oil pressure sending unit.
Sending unit $34.75 - Autozone
Total Cost - DIY
Mileage Out 123,000
Repair #8 - Driver side rear regulator failure
DIY Angle brace at Sears Hardware $2.49 - Fully functional
Mileage Out 124,875
My heated seat has failed once again, only this time actually metling some of the inside of the lumbar area, smelling like crap, and leaving a black mark in the leather. All which smelled lovely while driving fearing for my life.
As a side note, I have also replaced the brakes 2x and the rotors were re-surfaced 1x, and replaced by myself the 2nd time. I religiously change the oil, and overall baby this thing (wash at least 1x a week, immaculate interior). I chalk these items as regular wear & tear maintenance.
HOWEVER, my trunk also leaks, which I've tried to fix using the tips from this page, my hood has bubbled horribly, and my left front side still makes a moaning noise when turning right at mid to high speeds. I blow light bulbs, head-lights, etc like candy. My steering wheel also makes a wierd sound which is said to be a leaky ball joint, which needs a suringe injection with more lubricant to replace what leaked out. The transmission still surges, and I have learned that the only fix on record os to replace the valve body ..........and let'* see.....that'* a wrap. I AM HORRIBLY SORRY TO BE SO LONG WINDED, but I want to see if any of you all have experienced the same aggrivation I have. I may just end up selling it, because it seems like you need to be independently wealthy to own a bonne, and if that were the case, I doubt I'd be driving a Pontiac. Thanks to all.....and feedback is appreciated.
Tony
I do however want to pick all of your brains for a minute, and share some of my frustrations with you all. I have come to a crossroad, and its to the point of either sell or keep........and after the recent flurry of repairs I've done, I simply can't afford to continue at this clip, even doing the repairs myslef. I do love my bonne, and it'* the most enjoyable car I've ever owned, but I am genuinely concerned of it'* longevity.
I purchased when it had just over 60k, about 2 1/2 years ago. It now has 125k (Yes I have a long HIGHWAY commute to work and back) I should have seen the writing on the wall, but I had the dealer fix 2 problems before I even agreed to purchase it.
Pre-sale Item #1 - Both heated seats needed repair (we all know you push the button, it clicks, the light lights up for a second, then goes out) .....So they did it.
Presale Item #2 - The transmission surging when increasing a couple of miles an hour on the freeway, or going up a hill. (BTW I haven't seen anyone mention this problem on the site, but I googled it, and other folks have noted the same defect.)
Both items were fixed (to my knowledge) and I drove my new 2000 SSEi bonne home.
The nightmare then began. I should begin by stating that my cousin is the service manager of a GM dealer locally, and he gives me best price on labor/parts whenever possible.
Repair #1 Transmission mount CRACK, rough shifting, transmission free wheenling inside engine compartment, no damage to tranny.
Mount $100.35
Labor $103.50
Tax$13.25
Total Cost $217.10
Mileage Out 85,368
Repair #2 The tensioner pulley for the serpentine belt BROKE of while driving, and began to shread the belt. Luckily I heard this, pulled over, and had it towed to the dealer b4 it snapped.
Belt $44.42
Pulley $35.50
Labor $77.28
Tax $10.21
Towing Charge $70.95 (Hour from my house when it failed)
Total Cost $238.36
Mileage Out 97,500
Repair #3 All LED'* in the radio went out simultaneously.
Found used/refurbished on ebay.
Shipped/Out the door
$152
Mileage Out 100,000
Repair #4 Passenger rear regulator
Regulator $242.34
Labor $60
Tax $19.65
Total Cost $321.99
Mileage out 100,911
Repair #5 - Left front bearing loose, both front tie rods need replaced.
Hub kit $302.00
Tie rods kit $79.24
Front end alignment $29.95
Labor $204.95
Tax $38.10
Total Cost $624.29
Mileage Out 104,974
Repair#6 - Service engine soon light - diagnosis - Rust around gas cap, need new gas cap, sand rust off filler neck, evap system smoke test. Also advised me that, oil pressure send unit failure, needs replaced also.
Gas cap $25.40
Labor $69.95
Tax $5.72
Total $101.07
Mileage Out 116,739
Repair #7 - Oil pressure sending unit.
Sending unit $34.75 - Autozone
Total Cost - DIY
Mileage Out 123,000
Repair #8 - Driver side rear regulator failure
DIY Angle brace at Sears Hardware $2.49 - Fully functional
Mileage Out 124,875
My heated seat has failed once again, only this time actually metling some of the inside of the lumbar area, smelling like crap, and leaving a black mark in the leather. All which smelled lovely while driving fearing for my life.
As a side note, I have also replaced the brakes 2x and the rotors were re-surfaced 1x, and replaced by myself the 2nd time. I religiously change the oil, and overall baby this thing (wash at least 1x a week, immaculate interior). I chalk these items as regular wear & tear maintenance.
HOWEVER, my trunk also leaks, which I've tried to fix using the tips from this page, my hood has bubbled horribly, and my left front side still makes a moaning noise when turning right at mid to high speeds. I blow light bulbs, head-lights, etc like candy. My steering wheel also makes a wierd sound which is said to be a leaky ball joint, which needs a suringe injection with more lubricant to replace what leaked out. The transmission still surges, and I have learned that the only fix on record os to replace the valve body ..........and let'* see.....that'* a wrap. I AM HORRIBLY SORRY TO BE SO LONG WINDED, but I want to see if any of you all have experienced the same aggrivation I have. I may just end up selling it, because it seems like you need to be independently wealthy to own a bonne, and if that were the case, I doubt I'd be driving a Pontiac. Thanks to all.....and feedback is appreciated.
Tony
#65
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I had 90% of your problem and some you dont had, ive always paid for them and keep the car, you should be OK for a while,
the only very common problem you dont had yet is the Lower intake manifold failure, doesnt mean it will happen soon, but..
Id say keep it, with the money you have invest , you will lose if you sell it.
But in an other way, i really understand you, come close to sell mine everytime it failed.
Everytime i had an issue i was close to sell it or hit it in a wall.
But each i got it repaired i falled in love with the car again.
the only very common problem you dont had yet is the Lower intake manifold failure, doesnt mean it will happen soon, but..
Id say keep it, with the money you have invest , you will lose if you sell it.
But in an other way, i really understand you, come close to sell mine everytime it failed.
Everytime i had an issue i was close to sell it or hit it in a wall.
But each i got it repaired i falled in love with the car again.
#66
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Moaning noise when turning right. Sounds like perhaps the plastic wheel well isn't fastened and is rubbing against the tire. Tough to say from here without looking at it.
I've not had all these issues, however several are common. They are:
1) Heated seat element replacement - Replaced entire driver'* side myself. Bought replacement element units from dealer, removed the driver'* seat, and replaced heating element after partially removing upholstery. Key is locating the zipper to partially remove upholstery. Since the dealer repaired the heating element, perhaps they can pay for or at least help with the upholstery that now seems to be melting. It might be their issue.
2) Window regulators (2) and window regulator motor (1): Replaced 2 separate regulators myself and let dealer replace the one motor with one of the 2 reg assemblies previously removed. At least 1 motor was salvageable.
3) Replaced brakes at least once and pretty certain replaced both front rotors due to vibration when applying the brakes. Fairly inexpensive doing it myself and consider routine maintenance.
4) Tensioner pulley just flew off today. This seems to be a farily common issue with Pontiacs. It caused another plastic pulley to shred. Imagine that.
5) Service engine soon light...yep. Guess I'll check for rust around the gas cap. Thanks.
6) Trunk leak. Extremely simple fix that costs nothing is to remove the 2 rubber plugs at the bottom of the trunk.
7) Bulbs: Only recall replacing one rear and one headlight in 6 years.
Oil pressure sending unit: Just picked up that part today. Now to figure out where it'* located. Does anyone know? My several hundred dollar maintenance manual doesn't seem to indicate.
BIG PICTURE: Message I'm getting is Japan and US had nailed down quality issues 1-2 decades ago. Now with so many things made overseas (not in Japan or US and it seems we don't have a choice because it'* CEOs and legislators that don't fix their own cars that make these decisions), here we start all over again with QUALITY ISSUES. I'm seriously considering my next purchase being overseas after having bought GM all my life. Big question is: "Where are parts for these other cars manufactured?" I'm not interested in paying a lot of money for garbage quality. I'm more interested in reliability and I will pay the price. Leasing option is open. I'm tired of hearing these same issues over the period of several years manufacturing similar car models. This should send a message that should hit home.
I've not had all these issues, however several are common. They are:
1) Heated seat element replacement - Replaced entire driver'* side myself. Bought replacement element units from dealer, removed the driver'* seat, and replaced heating element after partially removing upholstery. Key is locating the zipper to partially remove upholstery. Since the dealer repaired the heating element, perhaps they can pay for or at least help with the upholstery that now seems to be melting. It might be their issue.
2) Window regulators (2) and window regulator motor (1): Replaced 2 separate regulators myself and let dealer replace the one motor with one of the 2 reg assemblies previously removed. At least 1 motor was salvageable.
3) Replaced brakes at least once and pretty certain replaced both front rotors due to vibration when applying the brakes. Fairly inexpensive doing it myself and consider routine maintenance.
4) Tensioner pulley just flew off today. This seems to be a farily common issue with Pontiacs. It caused another plastic pulley to shred. Imagine that.
5) Service engine soon light...yep. Guess I'll check for rust around the gas cap. Thanks.
6) Trunk leak. Extremely simple fix that costs nothing is to remove the 2 rubber plugs at the bottom of the trunk.
7) Bulbs: Only recall replacing one rear and one headlight in 6 years.
Oil pressure sending unit: Just picked up that part today. Now to figure out where it'* located. Does anyone know? My several hundred dollar maintenance manual doesn't seem to indicate.
BIG PICTURE: Message I'm getting is Japan and US had nailed down quality issues 1-2 decades ago. Now with so many things made overseas (not in Japan or US and it seems we don't have a choice because it'* CEOs and legislators that don't fix their own cars that make these decisions), here we start all over again with QUALITY ISSUES. I'm seriously considering my next purchase being overseas after having bought GM all my life. Big question is: "Where are parts for these other cars manufactured?" I'm not interested in paying a lot of money for garbage quality. I'm more interested in reliability and I will pay the price. Leasing option is open. I'm tired of hearing these same issues over the period of several years manufacturing similar car models. This should send a message that should hit home.
#67
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Fixitall
Many of the items you listed are not considered common failures.
Bulbs burn out over time
Brakes wear
Your moaning noise is most likely a wheel bearing wearing out.
Rubber plugs are not a fix to a trunk leak
Pulleys breaking off...not common, and considered maintenance..they have bearings.
The problem is not quality control. I am sure the regulators were up to spec. It seems more like an engineering design flaw over time and usage.
Many of the items you listed are not considered common failures.
Bulbs burn out over time
Brakes wear
Your moaning noise is most likely a wheel bearing wearing out.
Rubber plugs are not a fix to a trunk leak
Pulleys breaking off...not common, and considered maintenance..they have bearings.
The problem is not quality control. I am sure the regulators were up to spec. It seems more like an engineering design flaw over time and usage.
#68
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Yes, for sharing your problem, but we need to keep it simple and clear on this thread about common problem,
I think we did it all around, we just need to get the "how to do it myself" of each problems.
I think we did it all around, we just need to get the "how to do it myself" of each problems.
#69
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Billboost: Please read (thread) before responding.
Regarding oil pressure sending unit:
Labor quote from dealer: Around $90.
Part cost from Autozone: Around $35.
Realize it could be a bad electrical connection (high voltage causes high oil pressure reading according to maintenance manual). Fortunately for me, the sensor was indeed bad. It'* located under the power steering pump and is directly above the oil filter.
DIY hints for replacing the sensor: Get an oil pan to catch oil when the sensor is removed and have the new oil pressure sending unit handy to minimize oil loss. Removing the electrical connector from the sensor is much easier after removing the front passenger tire. I believe the sensor requires either a 1-1/16" deepwell or an adjustable wrench with long reach. There'* not much room to work. Assure the new oil pressure sendingn unit is tightened properly (don't want loss of engine oil) and retorque wheel.
Maybe I'll try inquiring mechanics as to what they see as common problems...unless someone else want to volunteer.
Regarding oil pressure sending unit:
Labor quote from dealer: Around $90.
Part cost from Autozone: Around $35.
Realize it could be a bad electrical connection (high voltage causes high oil pressure reading according to maintenance manual). Fortunately for me, the sensor was indeed bad. It'* located under the power steering pump and is directly above the oil filter.
DIY hints for replacing the sensor: Get an oil pan to catch oil when the sensor is removed and have the new oil pressure sending unit handy to minimize oil loss. Removing the electrical connector from the sensor is much easier after removing the front passenger tire. I believe the sensor requires either a 1-1/16" deepwell or an adjustable wrench with long reach. There'* not much room to work. Assure the new oil pressure sendingn unit is tightened properly (don't want loss of engine oil) and retorque wheel.
Maybe I'll try inquiring mechanics as to what they see as common problems...unless someone else want to volunteer.
#70
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Common Problem Expert Advise
To all who replyed to my long winded thread......thankyou. I truly value your thoughts, and sharing my frustration. Some of you may missed the very beginning of my post......My uncle is the service manager of a GM dealer. What I didn't include was that it was a huge GM dealer in town, which services the entire fleet of police cruisers for several jurisdictions in the area.
After reading your thread about which problems are common, I decided to ask him which ones tend to be the biggest fly in the ointment.
He said the window regulators are a common problem.....he has seen them blow out after as little as 40k.
The pulley'* should not break he states, also making that a common problem.
The lightbulbs.....yes.....are lightbulbs......and they burn out. But one after another, sometimes even the same one?
I think what we all understand, and can pretty much go without saying is that the Bonneville is riddled with a overwhelming amout of problems and anomalies.....whether they are deemed common or not..........to each is own. I am all about the statement and the big picture from fixitall. This is nuts, and I have never owned a car that has behaved in the manor that my bonne has. GM needs to do some serious reconsidering before releasing another car this complex for it'* price and time.
After reading your thread about which problems are common, I decided to ask him which ones tend to be the biggest fly in the ointment.
He said the window regulators are a common problem.....he has seen them blow out after as little as 40k.
The pulley'* should not break he states, also making that a common problem.
The lightbulbs.....yes.....are lightbulbs......and they burn out. But one after another, sometimes even the same one?
I think what we all understand, and can pretty much go without saying is that the Bonneville is riddled with a overwhelming amout of problems and anomalies.....whether they are deemed common or not..........to each is own. I am all about the statement and the big picture from fixitall. This is nuts, and I have never owned a car that has behaved in the manor that my bonne has. GM needs to do some serious reconsidering before releasing another car this complex for it'* price and time.