Posted up a little over a month ago about apparent rod bearing failure about 1k after LIM/UIM replacement.

Well.....the car has just been sitting since as it has been just too cold here. Borrowed a mechanic friends extra vehicle an now he is dead set on pulling the pan and at least investigating the bottom end before pulling and replacing the motor...or rebuilding it.

Did a search on the dreded right side motor mount but can seem to access any of the links associated with this procedure.....or any pics.

I am certain I can figure it out...but just wanted to ask for a bit of advice.

I am curious to see what the actual failure is FIRST......as well.....though slapping rod bearings in it (assuming the crank is not damaged, which I would find hard to believe) would not give me much confidence in the repair after....

Thanks in advance for any help here.

Chris

Billboost is the best person to ask about this. If he doesn't chime in you might want to try sending him a PM. I know he'* had some problems changing bearings, but I'll let him explain that.

Thanks.....I will see if he replies.....meanwhile....I am going to get started with the prep.....as it is now in the garage.......

I miss driving this car.

If the sound is a rod bearing and the crank looks good enough to slap a rod bearing in, trust me, its not good enough. But that means the crank is most likely save-able. Your local engine builder could turn it .010" and then it would be fine. This way will also get you a fresh bottom end, piston rings are about $150 from what I just looked up on the internet and machine work normally runs about $150~$300 depending on the shop and the work being done. You could most likely rebuild the bottom end for around $500. On the other hand you could find a used eBay engine ready to go, complete for around $500~$650.

The choice is ultimately yours but please, dont just "throw a rod bearing in" because not long after that you will throw the rod again.

I am with you there......

funny but if you start it .....there is no noise period.....under load when warm...(holding it 1k above idle you can hear it. Few days ago I had to run it long enough to get it defrosted.....after sitting out thru the last blast of winter we've had. no noise period the entire time....except just faintly just before i shut it down.

Found a 58K motor near rockford for $1250......and most likely would have already done the swap if it was warmer.

BUT I have to look first...

I recently changed the engine in my sons 2000 SSEi because it had spun number 2 rod bearing...I disassembled the shortblock today and it is really in remarkable shape other then the one rod and journal that spun...in fact I think the crank can be turned because he shut it off at the hint of noise..I am considering rebuilding the engine and selling it complete...wonder if it is worth it or would result in me not making any return on the investment

depends on the cost......I agree. Past motors I have rebuilt....I've had the tendency to go full boat on.

one way or the other it is getting fixed. love these cars....hard to find a better road car for the money....and even stock as mine is .....it is fun when someone tries to mess with you. A modded one would be even MORE fun.

Yes...I have a machine shop I deal with alot and I know they would treat me right...but still with the kit, machine work, and my labor time...it might get to pricey for some people...the heads were reworked last winter after the LIM gasket went south...does anyone thing I could get 1200.00 out of a complete rebuilt 3.8 with the pulleys and supercharger

granted i cant hear what your car is doing but from what you describe it sounds as tho it might not be a rod at all. has anybody thought about the possibility of a broken flexplate?

A cracked flexplate could make some noise, but you might feel more vibration. Another possibility is the harmonic balancer. There'* a rubber core between the two parts, if that rubber brakes down you will get noise and possibly some vibrations as well.