Originally Posted by bonnie94sse
I can't really tell how the 2 different links are giving me problems, but I must say, I've taken some tight corners at a good amount of speed and I thought my wheel(*) could have fallen off.
Really shaky :( I'll be fixing these ASAP.
I would think the problem would be more noticeable in straight-ahead bouncing over bumps, because a stiffer link-bolt connection on one side than on the other would make one wheel'* suspension deflect a little easier than the other, under circumstances where they're supposed to both respond with the same resistance and at the same rate. e.g. When the nose is bouncing up and down evenly (as if you were bouncing the car at its centerpoint, not one corner), the whole antisway bar should be free to pivot up and down, dampened only by its subframe bushings.
It'* in corners where the bar delivers its resistance, preventing the outside wheel'* suspension from compressing by resisting the twisting force on the bar, and using the inside wheel'* suspension as backup. The stiffness of the link bolts bolsters the anti-sway action: if the link bolt bushings give _more_, then less rotational force is transferred to the anti-sway bar, and there'* less it can do as a result, since the suspension'* already squishing down in response to the curve. On the other hand, if the link bolt bushings are really firm, more force goes to the bar, less deflection is allowed as a result, and your cornering is a lot more flat.
As for taking turns, I think you might see a little more body roll on one side than the other, though not too much difference if everything is actually bolted together like it'* supposed to. If you're feeling a lot of shaking from the wheels, I think I'd check to see whether they're balanced and (especially) whether one or both struts have sprung a leak.