L67 extended starts
11-02-2005, 06:23 PM
#1
L67 extended starts
My 98’ SSEi just started to have harder starts about a month ago.
It cranks over for about 4 seconds longer than it used to. Happens 80% of the time,
cold or warm. Sometimes it starts right up. It doesn’t have a problem when running.
I replaced the fuel pump 6 months ago, so I thought it went bad so then I replaced it again today. Same problem, it has extended starts still. I don’t know if it’* the crank sensor or the cam sensor now. What do you all think? Plugs, wires, fuel filter all new with in 6 months.
-Toddster
It cranks over for about 4 seconds longer than it used to. Happens 80% of the time,
cold or warm. Sometimes it starts right up. It doesn’t have a problem when running.
I replaced the fuel pump 6 months ago, so I thought it went bad so then I replaced it again today. Same problem, it has extended starts still. I don’t know if it’* the crank sensor or the cam sensor now. What do you all think? Plugs, wires, fuel filter all new with in 6 months.
-Toddster
11-02-2005, 06:45 PM
#3
I was told by another person here locally that I should check the fuel pressure before I start the car. What is a recommended pressure? I'll have it checked tomorrow. Is it hard to replace a fuel pressure regulator? Thanks for your help. -Toddster
11-02-2005, 07:03 PM
#4
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That'* key on, engine off. It shouldn't bleed down very fast. At idle, you should have at LEAST 40psi, and if you pull the vacuum line off the regulator or rev the throttle above 3k rpms, you should have somewhere around 45-47 or so. This would be acceptable for a mostly stock engine. Your needs may be higher as you mod. These are general close numbers based on my knowledge of the Series 1, but yours should be similar.
The FPR is mounted in the fuel rail and has one vacuum line going to it. Behind the SC.
That'* key on, engine off. It shouldn't bleed down very fast. At idle, you should have at LEAST 40psi, and if you pull the vacuum line off the regulator or rev the throttle above 3k rpms, you should have somewhere around 45-47 or so. This would be acceptable for a mostly stock engine. Your needs may be higher as you mod. These are general close numbers based on my knowledge of the Series 1, but yours should be similar.
The FPR is mounted in the fuel rail and has one vacuum line going to it. Behind the SC.
11-03-2005, 01:19 AM
#5
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I've noticed this on a few bonne'*. If the car sits for awile the first start is hard. Now that I have a FP gauge I can clearly see that the times it starts hard it will have a FP lower then 40. I'd like to check the volts on the hard starts but dont have a gauge. Try turning the key to the on position for a sec, then off, then back on for a sec, and then start it. Not sure why it does this I just know what 'works' for me.
FYI: this is on a brand new FP and a good FPR.
FYI: this is on a brand new FP and a good FPR.
11-03-2005, 05:49 PM
#6
I did not get a chance to check the FP yet but will do this tomorrow for shure.
However I do turn the key on the way you discribed, I even do that up to three times. No change
I hope it is the FP switch so I can fix this problem once and for all.-Toddster
However I do turn the key on the way you discribed, I even do that up to three times. No change
I hope it is the FP switch so I can fix this problem once and for all.-Toddster
11-08-2005, 06:14 PM
#7
OK I finally had a pressure gauge put on my car and tested the pressure. The pressure reads 40 PSI. When I turn the key to on, the pressure reads 47 PSI. Then turn on the car the pressure bleads down 10 PSI every second and stops at 40 PSI. Is this OK or do I have a injector that is bleading down?-Toddster
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