Hi, I have already spend hours using the search function on topics about car sputtering and dies or just dies, I have a bonneville 94 six cyl. no sc, the car stars fine then sometimes it will sputter then dies, or sometimes will work good the while driving it sputter a bit you step on the gas and no power it sputters then hesitates then it kicks in, and sometimes on stops it dies and while driving too. The car turns off but the lights on the dash are on so is the stereo. They have scanned for codes cause the engine light comes on, but doesn't give codes So I have done the following:

changed crank sensor, cam sensor, coil unit, gas filter, the computer was changed 2 years ago, checked the wiring on the crank and cam sensor its good, checked the gorund wires and cleaned them and where they attached to with a wire brush. checked vac lines.

I'll try and change the fuel pump relay, I think its located under the dash pass. side right? Which on is it?
Also how can I check the maf sensor?
How can I know the cat is not clogged?I step on the gas (when the car is working good) and it seems the exhast works good.
Do you guys have any suggestions? Help is very appreciated, thanks in advance.

Instead of replacing the fuel pump regulator, put a gauge on the car to see what the fuel pressure is when it is started and running. You should see 40-48 I believe.

Quick test on the cat is to crawl under and kick it (do this cold) and if it rattles and sounds like somethings loose inside then it is probably bad. A bad O2 is usually the cause of a bad cat.

Fuel pump relay is obviously working. Don't waste your time or money.

I suspect with a Check engine light on, and no codes, somebody didn't know you have a hybrid PCM (94/95 were OBD1, but sortof OBD2).

Check the MAF sensor with a scantool.

Sometimes when cat'* fail, they rattle when kicked. Not always. If it rattles, change it. Are your temps overly high? That'* another sign of a clogged cat.

I suggest you put your 94 SE in your signature (fill out your profile) and also your location. We may have help or a scantool near you.

Thanks for replying, I saw the obd conector under the dash, its a 16 pin, so can autozone check this? The temperatures don't seem to go up, they stay normal. Any other tips or other sensor that could be wrong? What I have done is with the car runing I disconect the maf sensor and it seems to do nothing, then I conect it back and the car dies, is this normal?

Autozone scanners typically can not scan your hybrid year.

Advance auto can scan it, but make sure you tell them it'* a hybrid year.

He'* in Mexico. No Advance Auto there. NAPA maybe. You need an OBD1 tool with an OBD2 connector. You may have to go to a GM dealer.

The thing is that the check engine light will come on and stay on if a turn the car off. But when I cleaned the grounds the computer reseted itself and now the light comes on but if I turn the car off then on again the light is not on anymore, so can they check it like this or till it stays on all the time?

The PCM will store history codes. A standard code reader can't read them, but a scantool can.

Ok, I went on vacations then back home again and with the problem still not fixed, I went today to a shop to check for the stored codes, they checked it with a SPX OTC Tech 2 tool, I didn't tell the tach anything about the car, the car gave us two codes, if he wasn't using the right scan tool the car wouldn't give any codes right? Well the two codes were:

P0341 Cam/crank error
P0342 Cam sensor circuit

Aparently these two sensors were changed not long ago by the PO, but since I didn't change them by myself Iam going to take them out, any suggestions on this work? Anybody with any tip. thanks

I'm not too familiar with replacing the crankshaft sensor. I think the harmonic balancer has to be removed to gain access.

As for replacing the cam sensor, that'* not bad. Easiest way to do it is to jack up the car, remove the passenger side front wheel, remove the plastic dust shroud (uses those plastic nail-style clips), and then look up at the engine at a 45 degree angle and you'll see a sensor with only one wire harness going to it. It'* circular at one end and goes to a triangle at the connector end. Unscrew it with a 10 mm socket and pop it out. It'* a magnet that'll likely be coated in oil. Around the magnet will be a red seal.

Installation is the reverse of removal. 20 minute job...tops.

Let the gear heads chime in for the Crank Sensor...