where???
#12
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Please do not open the system after you've driven around the block. Like the manual and cap say, HOT AND PRESSURIZED!!!
Always open the system when cold. To remove any other air the overflow tank does that job. Tyipcally after refilling and running the car for a day or two the overflow is about 1/4-1/2inch low. Refill to the cold line.
Always open the system when cold. To remove any other air the overflow tank does that job. Tyipcally after refilling and running the car for a day or two the overflow is about 1/4-1/2inch low. Refill to the cold line.
#13
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Please do not open the system after you've driven around the block. Like the manual and cap say, HOT AND PRESSURIZED!!!
Always open the system when cold. To remove any other air the overflow tank does that job. Tyipcally after refilling and running the car for a day or two the overflow is about 1/4-1/2inch low. Refill to the cold line.
Always open the system when cold. To remove any other air the overflow tank does that job. Tyipcally after refilling and running the car for a day or two the overflow is about 1/4-1/2inch low. Refill to the cold line.
So I recheck with the bleeder screw; cold is fine for checking if you wish.
#14
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Let me get something clear.
For this site: when advice is given, the safe methods are given. Personally and individually we may practice other methods. However for the good of all on the site and many that are not normally under the hood, safe is the best information.
Safe procedures being transferred to other members is each members responsiblity.
There is nothing here to debate. Safe is the only advice that should be conveyed openly.
For this site: when advice is given, the safe methods are given. Personally and individually we may practice other methods. However for the good of all on the site and many that are not normally under the hood, safe is the best information.
Safe procedures being transferred to other members is each members responsiblity.
There is nothing here to debate. Safe is the only advice that should be conveyed openly.
#16
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
RTV is a nice sealant that is a PITA to clean off later.
I've been having some tstat batch issues. (same batch, all bad) I've recently gotten good enough to change my t stat in under 5 minutes with the 10 step procedure I listed. That vacuum hose really does the trick.
I've been having some tstat batch issues. (same batch, all bad) I've recently gotten good enough to change my t stat in under 5 minutes with the 10 step procedure I listed. That vacuum hose really does the trick.
#17
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Thanks for the nice write-up BillBoost37.
I'm getting ready to get a 180* t-stat, but have another question. Without stealing the thread, what is the deal with drilled 180* stats? I keep seeing it in people'* sigs etc., but cannot seem to find a thread specifically discussing it. I admit to only searching for about 15 mins.....
I assume it is done to increase flow, but does it really help and is it useful for non or only slightly modified SE'*?
If it is a good mod, how is it done?
I'm getting ready to get a 180* t-stat, but have another question. Without stealing the thread, what is the deal with drilled 180* stats? I keep seeing it in people'* sigs etc., but cannot seem to find a thread specifically discussing it. I admit to only searching for about 15 mins.....
I assume it is done to increase flow, but does it really help and is it useful for non or only slightly modified SE'*?
If it is a good mod, how is it done?
#18
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Originally Posted by lash
Thanks for the nice write-up BillBoost37.
I'm getting ready to get a 180* t-stat, but have another question. Without stealing the thread, what is the deal with drilled 180* stats? I keep seeing it in people'* sigs etc., but cannot seem to find a thread specifically discussing it. I admit to only searching for about 15 mins.....
I assume it is done to increase flow, but does it really help and is it useful for non or only slightly modified SE'*?
If it is a good mod, how is it done?
I'm getting ready to get a 180* t-stat, but have another question. Without stealing the thread, what is the deal with drilled 180* stats? I keep seeing it in people'* sigs etc., but cannot seem to find a thread specifically discussing it. I admit to only searching for about 15 mins.....
I assume it is done to increase flow, but does it really help and is it useful for non or only slightly modified SE'*?
If it is a good mod, how is it done?
#20
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Let me get something clear.
For this site: when advice is given, the safe methods are given. Personally and individually we may practice other methods. However for the good of all on the site and many that are not normally under the hood, safe is the best information.
Safe procedures being transferred to other members is each members responsiblity.
There is nothing here to debate. Safe is the only advice that should be conveyed openly.
For this site: when advice is given, the safe methods are given. Personally and individually we may practice other methods. However for the good of all on the site and many that are not normally under the hood, safe is the best information.
Safe procedures being transferred to other members is each members responsiblity.
There is nothing here to debate. Safe is the only advice that should be conveyed openly.
Let me quote from the 1998 Service Manual from GM for the H bodies, Bonneville, Eighty-Eights, LeSabre. The 1993 service manual is the same IIRC. If needed I can copy it as well.
From Service Manual:
Draining and Filling Cooling System
Draining Procedure
Caution: As long as there is pressure in the cooling system, the temperature can considerably higher than the boiling temperature of the solution in the radiator without causing the solution to boil. Removal of the PRESSURE CAP while the engine is hot and pressure is high will cause the solution to boil instantaeously --possibly with explosive force-- spewing the solution over the engine, fenders and the person removing the CAP.
...
Filling Procedure
1. Refill the cooling system with GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL or Havoline DEX-COOL. To ensure sufficient engine cooling, freezing and corrosion protection, maintain the protection lvel at -37 degrees C. Use a solution that is no more than 70 percent antifreze.
2. Place the heater and A/C control in and A/C mode except MAX and the temperature in the highest setting.
3. Allow the engine to continue idling until the lower radiator to coolant pump hose is hot.
4. Cycle the engine speed up to about 3000 rpm and back to idle five times.
Slowly open the bleed valve on the rear of the thermostat housing for approximately 15 seconds to expel and trapped air in the cooling system.
5. After the air has been expelled, fill the radiator. Install the radiator pressure cap, making sure the arrows on the cap line up with the coolant recovery tube.
6. Allow the engine to cool to outside temperature. Check the coolant level in the reservoir.
End service manual quote. Some trademarked are included in the above quotes.
GM'* instructions are clear to me.
I follow their method. The retention of any air in the DEX-COOL radiator with the movement of the coolant to mix them is a factor in sludging from DEX-COOL that happened with certain models of cars, according to my service manager at the Buick dealership. I am careful to remove all air. Whether you wish to do it cold or following GM'* procedure is up to you.