When installing felpro head gaskets...
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Originally Posted by 1fatcat
It does not matter which way the hole faces. You can install it in either direction.
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Originally Posted by jwikoff99
I think it'* to get a certain amount of oil flow. Two holes of smaller size would get clogged easier.
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95naSTA, I just pulled the lifters on my L36 and there is no "pattern" to which way the hole faces. It may have been disassembled before, but it was a long time ago because EVERYTHING is leaking on this motor. It has 155K on it.
I have removed and reinstalled MANY lifters on these engines and I have never seen a pattern as to which way the hole faces. My best advice is to look for wear patters on the lifter and bore and try to match it back to that. But I think you said you’re using different lifters anyways so you will not be able to do that.
BTW, why are you using different lifters?
And just a thought, maybe installing the lifters in the opposite ware pattern would yield more life from the lifter-to-bore clearance?
I have removed and reinstalled MANY lifters on these engines and I have never seen a pattern as to which way the hole faces. My best advice is to look for wear patters on the lifter and bore and try to match it back to that. But I think you said you’re using different lifters anyways so you will not be able to do that.
BTW, why are you using different lifters?
And just a thought, maybe installing the lifters in the opposite ware pattern would yield more life from the lifter-to-bore clearance?
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Originally Posted by 1fatcat
BTW, why are you using different lifters?
Originally Posted by 1fatcat
And just a thought, maybe installing the lifters in the opposite ware pattern would yield more life from the lifter-to-bore clearance?
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Originally Posted by Damemorder
*looks over* Hole is the pushrod end.
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Originally Posted by Damemorder
Originally Posted by Damemorder
*looks over* Hole is the pushrod end.
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So to day i bought:
- oil & filter
- brake clean
- a gasket scraper
- High temp RTV (for corners of the LIM gasket)
And i already have my newer lifters soaking in oil.
All of my gaskets/bolts are scheduled to arrive on wednesday.
Should I permatex my new headgaskets? What does everyone think about that?
As for the head & block prep,
Is a sanding block with a red scotchbrite pad going to be enough or should i get some 600 grit sandpaper?
Anything else??
- oil & filter
- brake clean
- a gasket scraper
- High temp RTV (for corners of the LIM gasket)
And i already have my newer lifters soaking in oil.
All of my gaskets/bolts are scheduled to arrive on wednesday.
Should I permatex my new headgaskets? What does everyone think about that?
As for the head & block prep,
Is a sanding block with a red scotchbrite pad going to be enough or should i get some 600 grit sandpaper?
Anything else??
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Unless the gasket manufacturer states otherwise, don't put anything on the headgaskets. They need to be installed dry.
As for prepping the block, you should run a tap or thread chaser down every headbolt hole then blow the matterial out with compressed air and try to catch it with a rag. This will ensure clean threads and give you a much more accurate torque reading.
Sanding the block? I don't know. You need to be very carefull of the grit that will fall off the sandpaper and into the cooling jackets, lifter valley and cylinder bores. This grit is very abrasive and can cause premature engine damage. Unless the block is out of the car and bare so it can be cooked afterwards, I wouldn't recommend sanding it.
A corse wire brush like the one on the left and a drill work pretty good. Just be sure to check the deck and head flatness with a feeler guage and straight edge when your done cleaning them.
As for prepping the block, you should run a tap or thread chaser down every headbolt hole then blow the matterial out with compressed air and try to catch it with a rag. This will ensure clean threads and give you a much more accurate torque reading.
Sanding the block? I don't know. You need to be very carefull of the grit that will fall off the sandpaper and into the cooling jackets, lifter valley and cylinder bores. This grit is very abrasive and can cause premature engine damage. Unless the block is out of the car and bare so it can be cooked afterwards, I wouldn't recommend sanding it.
A corse wire brush like the one on the left and a drill work pretty good. Just be sure to check the deck and head flatness with a feeler guage and straight edge when your done cleaning them.
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