I'll see about getting a video of my engine running, but for now something is grounding out that shouldn't be, and my battery drains in a matter of days. It hasn't even been a year that I got new Duravomit ignition coils and NGK iridium plugs. I am about to change the wires to AC Delco, but the battery suckage is keeping me from that.

I've barely put on 12K miles since I got the car, and I've taken great care of it - aside from 5 drag races back in May. The sound is consistent while the car idles with fresh oil at a constant 40 PSI. As soon as I go about 3,000 miles on synthetic 10W-30 with a Purolator, Mobil 1, AC Delco, or K&N, the oil pressure starts dropping to ~20 PSI at idle.

Is there confirmation yet that the so-called Oil Volume Kit that boosts oil pressure for the S2 works on the S1? I remember willwren mentioned it, but I don't remember exactly where that was. I brought that up somewhere else, and I've found out that the kit is a tougher spring and a new gasket, for the most part. It'* still worth the money to me if it does work.

Aside from the oil pressure fix, what is there to check?

Have you checked the PCV valve?

You can check the battery drain if you have a multi-meter with a 10 amp range.

The PVC valve is actually newer than the ignition coils, and it has all new gaskets and such. It looked sparkly clean the last time I saw it open, and even then the car ran kind of strangely. Is it possible that this is a fuel issue? I did a fuel pressure test, and it came out to be in the low 40s at a throttle bump and mid 30s at idle.

I have a couple of multimeters, but I think I already know where the drain is. Would someone happen to know which wires are in the wrapped up bushel that goes to the fog lights and driver'* side headlight? I am 75% sure that'* where the problem is.

Yes the series 2 oil pressure kit will work on a series 1. And your correct Willwren confirmed it on the Zilla.

I cant really see the viscosity of the oil changing that much in 3000 miles for the oil pressure to drop that much? There was a post a few weeks back for an oil sample kit that would test for fuel contamination.

I don't know if it'* the viscosity, but at idle in D only, not N - I forgot - the oil pressure drops after 3000 miles. The moment the car starts moving, even if the engine is idling while the car is moving, the oil pressure pops right back up to 40.

Might be time to do a compression check. It sounds like you could be be getting fuel in oil. Could be a leaky fuel injector or blow -by.

I'd disregard the oil pressure, as it seems only a symptom of the problem you are having, which is poor idle in gear.

Heres what I would check- in order from most important
1- Vaccuum leak
2- Idle Air Control Sensor/valve
3- EGR Valve (If it'* digital, you could clean it)
4- Spark Plug wires/Spark plugs(Spray some water on the wires at night to look for arcing, check wires' ohms with a multimeter)
5- Coil packs/ ICM(Test secondary and primary windings with a multimeter)
6- TPS (Easily checked with an ohmeter - check for smooth transition throughout the throttle sweep)

I would love to do a compression test. Isn't it around $17 to rent it at Rice Zone?

1. I got all new vacuum lines, but I want to replace them again. I think I have a higher idle by less than 100RPM when I use the ricey tubes.

2. That wasn't serviced. Probably a good idea to do that...

3. Could someone please explain to me the point of the EGR valve? It was cleaned about the same time that the PCV was renewed, but it'* probably time again given the supposed fuel issues.

4. I did an arc test, and the $18.99 O'Reilly Auto Parts wires worked just fine, visually. Once they're changed, I'll start the car again to see if anything is different.

5. Would Duravomit really let me down like that? What'* second best to MSD? I read once or twice about 97+ coil packs, which are hotter than stock by a bit. If the DV coils don't ohm out properly, which ones do I get to replace the ones I have?

6. I went to a dealership and asked them to check my TPS. No one knew what I was talking about. Where do I find information on this?

Thanks so much for the help so far. I will go to my bank tomorrow and withdraw some anti-Radomir to go buy some more goods to fix this up.

Bump! Where would I find the TPS test procedure?

TPS is throttle position sensor.
It'* on the throttle body, it'* an important sensor due to the fact that it reports to the computer, telling it what position the throttle blade is at.

Here is the procedure: http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=22830&start=0

There is also this article if you'd like to test your own IAC - http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=24

The point of the EGR valve is to recirculate unburnt exhaust gases back into the combustion chamber to be reburned, in order so that our cars will not release unburnt fuel into the atmosphere. If the EGR valve is sticking, it will cause your engine to run crappy(rich). There is a procedure to cleaning the EGR, as long as your car has the digital EGR, shown here : http://img388.imageshack.us/img388/6914/getimageyz6.jpg

If your EGR doesnt look like that, then it'* not able to be cleaned, instead it must be replaced.

Good coils are the AC Delco ones. Yup, the same ones found in most 90'* gm vehicles.