Those of us who are BLOWN (I'm talking about SC) don't have a choice. It says so right on the dash. BUTT (as in but) I'm hoping water injection changes that!

Hey, Tam, what color is your interior, and are you still running the stock goldish spokish wheels?

I too have run both 87 and 93 in my 1998 L36 and found that I get better acceleration and mileage with the better stuff. As for those who say the computer will not allow the engine to run well with the high octane...Bah. I have tried to go back to the lower octane and she just doesn't like it anymore. I also run RESTORE fuel injector cleaner/octane booster every 10 tanks to keep everything really clean. I do run this stuff on Friday nights when I am out rice hunting.

Mark

Yeah, you're gonna run better with the good stuff, because these cars have knock sensors. The higher octane allows the timing to advance a bit. Running an octane booster like you are (and like I do....MOST of the time) helps, but dollar for dollar, isn't cost effective. Spendy stuff compared to the price of gas. Don't let me get on my water injection soapbox again, BUT......water IS cheaper than octane boost or gas!

My interior is the dark grey with cloth, unfortunately. As for wheels i am running aluminum 5 star curved sports...which, i believe, were only available on certain yeared models (I am not sure if 95 is the only one, that is the only year i have ever seen them on) and then they are a special ordered add-on.
You can see them on my website, on the picture in my sig. they look like hub caps.

Damn. I'm looking for 2 (yes, only 2) of the gold spoke like you see on my pic to the left <------- cuz I'm building a custom trailer to tow behind my car. Just curious about your interior color cuz speedguy is getting ready to order A-pillar gauge pods, and it might get cheaper if we order more of the same color. A gray interior on a green car was a bit unusual. Mine'* tan.

You're right, it is. I think whoever bought my car new ordered it special (it was a car for a McCain'* food executive) because it has some options that normally wouldn't come with the SE...such as the wheels i mentioned.
Besides, if i did have the gold honeycomb i couldn't give you 2, because i couldn't make it around on just 2 myself!! lol
Aren't those rims too big for a trailer anyway?? What size are they? mine are 16'*

Most people hate the gold ones. I was hoping you had 'em and hated 'em. That way you'd have 4 of something else. I can use the 16'* with a drop axle. Thought it would be coool to match the car. I've built 2 utility trailers before this, both custom for the tow vehicle. This one (in my head still) will be the best yet. Perfectly suited for my girlfriend Bonnie.

Ok, here'* the real poop on water injection. Water injection can benefit NA, Turbo, or Supercharged engines alike. The benefits to the Turbo or SC are far greater, however, than NA. H20 injection causes an increase in manifold pressure, allowing more fuel to be delivered, and then allowing the timing to advance slightly. On a car with a boost gauge, the increase in pressure is obvious. I saw a 1.5 to 2.0 psi increase with my first prototype. This was a gravity/siphon/drip type system, just to prove the theory. The increase in spark advance may also allow a lower octane fuel to be used, AND will cool your intake by as much as 60° F (probably best case scenario, but I plan to verify this with my final design). This is a much cheaper alternative to an intercooler, and has many other benefits, as stated above, as well as reducing carbon deposits in the engine.

Why are aftermarket H20 injection systems so expensive? They have to recoup their R&D costs as well as make a profit....not to mention the prohibitive cost of centrifugal pumps that are capable of delivering 3-4 bar of pressure. These systems run from $200 to $800 US.

How can a NORMAL person without a bottomless checkbook do the same thing for cheaper? My final system will be utilizing the compressor already in my car. It handles load levelling and the utility tire inflation air in my trunk. By using a drip irrigation fogger designed for 35psi, I can pressurize a water tank in the trunk (it'll hold about 3 gallons) and deliver the water through a 1/4" tube to the intake side of the SC. If I didn't have the compressor, I could use the air in the spare tire to pressurize the tank. You would probably have to refill it at each gas station visit, but it would work. With the compressor running off a pressure switch, it would only run when the ignition was on, and it needed to pressurize the tank. For those of you without, you can pick up a used compressor for a GM car at a wrecker for about $100.

I'm building my own tank out of PVC pipe. My water and air fittings will be threaded in, with the air on top so it doesn't draw water in a zero pressure situation. I'm also considering installing a 12v Solonoid valve so that I can determine if the system runs or not.

As I stated before, yes, it does work, and yes, I'm pursuing my final design. If anyone has any questions, let me know, and I'll keep you posted on my progress.

I have them Ghtetto gold rims... unfortunetly, I can't part with them just yet because I have a few things I want done to the car before I get to changing my rims. As for the water injection by willren... keep me posted.. I have a 97 SSEI with also the air compressor and would like to run a water injection system... cheaper then NOS.

Bummer on the rims. Trade them for a water injection system? You won't get the same results from water like you would from NOS, but it'* better distrubuted power, with other benefits, and no stress on the motor.

BTW, anyone know what the symbol H20 stands for? Think about it. Then think about what happens when you atomize that H20 fuel in a high pressure, high temperature environment. 6 little Hindenburgs under your hood.

(answer below for those that haven't had coffee yet this morning....coffee is made with water, too)
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Hydrogen and Oxygen, science buffs