I know this is gonna seem like the post below.. but there is a difference.

Alright so i got in my car.. put key in ignition. turned key. lights come on, fuel pump.. just like normal.. turn the key to start and nothing at all.. just one click from the solenoid.. (not the noise like a dead battery) so i grabed a coat hanger and jump-started the starter to make sure it was still good.. it turns over and starts the engine for about 1 second then it shuts off.. iv tried the key in park and neutral same thing.. i checked the fuel filter to see why it wouldnt stay running after jump-starting and its fine..so i put the filter back in and tried agian and this time after the engine shut off.. the pump stayed running for about a minute to a minute and a half..

any help would be greatly appreciated.

Sounds like a VATS issue to me ( vehicle anti - theft system )

What does the security light on the dash do during this whole time?

your key has a little black chip on it right? rub the metal on the chip with a pencil eraser and try it again.

the system works off of a resistor chip inside the key. when you insert the key, the resistance is seen by the car. if the resistance is not the right value, the starter and fuel pump will be disabled.

if that happens, the car will not start for around 10 minutes.... even with the right key with the right resistance. if you do try to start it within that time, the timer will be reset again and you have to wait more time.

try the eraser trick and wait about 15 mins and see if it starts. you could also try another key if you have one... but once again, wait 15 mins.

Let'* try to rule out Vats- How long does the security light stay on when the key is turned to the run position?

all the lights come and then one shuts off.. i think the airbag one.. and the security light blinks.. turn the key to start and the lights all stay on.. and the security light keeps blinking

The vats module isn't reading your key.
If you have a spare try that one. In the meantime, use an ohmmeter and measure the resistance across the chip in the key. Post your result please.

i have no spare.. nor do i have an ohm meter.. :?

Have you got a radioshack nearby, they'd measure for free? I'm not sure if the autoparts places have DVM'* you can borrow or not. If you've got transportation it'd be worth picking up a cheap dvm.

Until then try cleaning the key as suggested. If you've got a little tube of lock de-icer then give the ignition cylinder a squirt and put the key in-n-out a bunch of tiime to try and clean those contacts inside there too. This helped when my wifes car was acting up.
I eventually just bypassed vats but to to that we need the key resistance; unless you feel like buying alot of resistors and trying the 15 possibilities.
http://vats.likeabigdog.com/

btw - a new key is $30-50 but again, you need to know the resistance.

alright i made some phone calls and i have a friend with a muti-meter.. i figure that should bo able to help me.. but hes not comeing for a while so ill try cleaning the key... is there anything else i could use in the ignition to clean it?

isoprop. alcohol. (rubbing alcohol) thou getting down there would be tricky.
I suppose you could put some on the clean key chip and then insert that while still wet a bunch of times. Key needs to be cleaned first.

one more thing, you don't pump the gas pedal when starting fuel injected cars; that was for carbs. If your car needs that to start then it has other issues to work on later in a new thread.

Here'* a short article article that explains how to bypass the key reader built into the ignition switch. The white wires are ususally inside an orange plastic sleeve. I'm not sure if the Bonnevilles have the white connector or easy access to it. Seems like everyone ends up cutting the white wires to install the resistor(*).

Edit - http://www.asttraining.com/Files/vats1.pdf