Thanks for the info! With this not being a supercharged model, does that mount still have to be removed? I looked around here before posting and found conflicting reports of whether it need to be removed or not on the NA version.
I just replaced the WP on my 92 Bonneville non-SC (3800 Series I). There are two potential issues with the front motor mount (at least on this configuration).
First, two of the WP bolts are located through access holes on the motor mount plate. If the access holes are perfectly aligned with the bolt head, then they shouldn't be difficult to access with a socket. Mine were slightly misaligned and no socket would fit. Motor mount had to come off to get them. Besides that, there isn't much room to back those bolts all the way out with the motor mount in place.
Second, the WP pulley is re-used on the new WP shaft. I had the four pulley bolts removed, but couldn't get the pulley free from around the shaft due to the edge of the motor mount being in the way. This might not have been a problem had I been able to get at those two WP bolts, separate the WP from the block and slide it back a centimeter or two away from the motor mount. I'm not sure, because I couldn't get all the WP bolts off without removing the motor mount, anyway.
When I say 'removing' the motor mount, what I really mean is removing the four bolts on the frame side, the two bolts and one stud on the engine side, then jiggling the entire mount out of the way with the engine supported via a jack on the oil pan (with a board between the oil pan and jack to protect the pan). I couldn't actually get the motor mount out of the engine bay because those damned rigid A/C hoses were in the way. At the factory, the engine goes in, then the AC hoses are installed directly over the frame-side mount. Enough room to wiggle the mount over to one side or another but not much else without disconnecting the A/C hoses.
I purchased a new
WP at Kragen Auto for $36.99 (plus tax), made in Japan by GMB. Also installed a 180' stat and replaced the cooling hoses.
The bypass hose fitting that screws into the manifold was of a carbon/plastic fiber type material and blew apart
while I was driving, which is what prompted all of this. The fitting blew in half at the manifold edge, leaving the threaded half inside and removed with an EZ OUT thingy. A replacement fitting was $17 from the dealer, of SOLID METAL construction this time. The dealer reported they were selling 20 of those fittings every month for a while, but demand had slowed. Apparently, I wasn't the only one with that problem.
Forget about finding the coolant drain plug for the engine block on the rear side of the vehicle. I couldn't find it because it was totally obstructed. The front drain plug can be found a few inches from the starter by crawling under the front of the car and is fairly accessible.
I've done a few water pumps before, but every different vehicle is a new adventure.