Water in cylinders - UPDATE - its back on the road
#21
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Originally Posted by putertopia
Not to steal the thread here or anything.. but are the felpro second design gaskets (MS958091) any good? I ended up buying it from rock auto... so I hope it flies lol.
#22
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Originally Posted by agrazela
Originally Posted by putertopia
Not to steal the thread here or anything.. but are the felpro second design gaskets (MS958091) any good? I ended up buying it from rock auto... so I hope it flies lol.
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I might have missed a post in this thread, but make sure you replace the plastic upper intake too, (~$100 from the dealer) well worth it, as the TB cooler that runs around the EGR stovpipe tends to leak.
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Originally Posted by TheDude
I had the EXACT same problem happen to mine. Hydrolocked the motor due to an UIM failure. I shut the car off, and it wouldnt even crank over after that. Pulled the plugs and coolant shot out. I replaced the UIM, LIM gaskets, and had the heads redone. It rans awsome for about 70 miles then developed a rod knock which scored my crank. I had to rebuilt the entire motor after that. Kinda sucked. So, I would suggest that you pull the oil pan off and throughly flush lots of oil through the motor. It wouldnt even hurt to pull the rod caps off and check the bearings. All mine were good except #1. They had to take .010" off the crank from that. Just trying to help you avoid the same costly disaster that I ended in.
Now I'm scared. I'm not setup to do all of this. I'm already doing more than I've EVER done before to a motor. The only reason I'm attemtping this is the thought of spending $1400 at the dealer, and the fact that I have the tools to do the LIM and UIM. I appreciate the thought.
I respect your knowledge, but can't I simply drain the old oil (which I don't see any coolant in it) put fresh in, finish the LIM and UM repair start it up let it run a little while then drop the oil again and see what happens ?
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we are telling you to do that because of what contaminants the oil may be holding.. There is always blowby on these motors.. At least a little... But if you were burning any coolant in the combustion process the Oil can and will become acidic.... This in turn can pit the bearings... What we are wanting you to do is drain the oil get some super tech and run that for a little while and then change again..
I understand your thinking... If you wanted, you could do the work and then change the oil.. Driver a few hundred and do it again and then back to normal..
We would hate to see you another victim of an Upper failure causing a bottom end failure.. I had an 80k motor spin a bearing for that very reason..
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I understand your thinking... If you wanted, you could do the work and then change the oil.. Driver a few hundred and do it again and then back to normal..
We would hate to see you another victim of an Upper failure causing a bottom end failure.. I had an 80k motor spin a bearing for that very reason..
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Originally Posted by White93z34
I might have missed a post in this thread, but make sure you replace the plastic upper intake too, (~$100 from the dealer) well worth it, as the TB cooler that runs around the EGR stovpipe tends to leak.
Yes, I'm ordering the APN kit. I have all the parts now, except the coolant elbow (need to figure out who has that) and the APN kit. I got the gaskets, plugs, new wire set, coolant, rtv, oil, filter, injector seal kit, blah blah blah. I've already started to clean up the LIM and heads with the wirewheel. I did find some coolant setting in the ports on the back side of the valve. I sucked that out with my anti freeze tester of all things. Tomorrow I'm going to try to finish the clean up of the mating surfaces and maybe reinstall the LIM. I need to find the torque specs for those bolts and the sequence.
I did find some pitting on the LIM that has me concerned. I'm trying to figure out how to post a pic. I need some input on this before I proceed. I'll try to figure that out.
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Go To Autozone, they usually have the Kit for less than $4.... Advance may have it as well..
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can't I simply drain the old oil (which I don't see any coolant in it) put fresh in, finish the LIM and UM repair start it up let it run a little while then drop the oil again and see what happens ?
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Originally Posted by jr's3800
we are telling you to do that because of what contaminants the oil may be holding.. There is always blowby on these motors.. At least a little... But if you were burning any coolant in the combustion process the Oil can and will become acidic.... This in turn can pit the bearings... What we are wanting you to do is drain the oil get some super tech and run that for a little while and then change again..
I understand your thinking... If you wanted, you could do the work and then change the oil.. Driver a few hundred and do it again and then back to normal..
We would hate to see you another victim of an Upper failure causing a bottom end failure.. I had an 80k motor spin a bearing for that very reason..
I understand your thinking... If you wanted, you could do the work and then change the oil.. Driver a few hundred and do it again and then back to normal..
We would hate to see you another victim of an Upper failure causing a bottom end failure.. I had an 80k motor spin a bearing for that very reason..
Gotcha I appreciate all the advice. Please understand that this is a little intimidating to be honest. I want it fixed right too. I have the oil and filter to replace. I was going to replace this tomorrow while I continued to do the clean up.
I want to make sure I understand you...
Change the oil and filter now putting in supertech. Put everything back together run it for 100 or 200 miles and change the oil and filter again. This should prevent any lower end damage correct? Super tech is cheap oil @ Walmart right? But I could use any oil right. Or is there something about Supertech that would be better in this application ? the idea is to change the oil now, run it for a short bit to collect any contaminates, then change again before any lower end damage accures..right ?
thank you.